43 • Sunday 09 July 2006 - MERCADO GALES

Sunday 09 July 06 - 11:02

The couple [Emyr & Melba Williams] come back and are ready but, again, because I dont have the language I cant get them to relax and just 'be' they have to pose traditionally - like in a Victorian photograph or a birthday photo! At first I am really bothered that they have to pose - I am worried that it will 'weaken' my photography and give it less clout - then I realize that it is life. This is the way I have found them; I am a documentary photographer not a fashion or film photographer that stages everything - this is life as I am encountering it. 

An elderly man walks by and the shop owner opens the door and asks him to come in to be included in a photo. He speaks a bit of English and has a cutting dry sense of humour - but is playful! He leaves soon (man in black raincoat) and the friend leaves soon after. I thank them very much and am about to go when the lady offers a "Panad o te". It is 10:30am - I should be at hectors soon. I accept and go into the back, to the living room and tiny kitchen - everything is spotless - I guess it is pride but also in such a small town if word gets out you are slightly dirty then that is your business done for! I am still wearing my black waterproof trousers and jacket and it is starting to rain with moisture inside them! 

I am told to sit down and the couple happily and busily set to - putting the kettle on, putting a teabag in a cup - getting crackers and margarine and 'Pelones' jam out. The man tends to take over a bit and enthusiastically puts the jam and marge onto the crackers and sets them into a bowl for me. I get my DL2 out - this is a great opportunity to capture some great candid work but I realize that it would be rude - they have proudly stood in front of the camera after going into the back to prepare themselves, to look their best and they certainly wont want to be caught putting maragrine onto crackers! I never thought that photography here would be so different - it is nothing in Britain to take a photo of anyone doing anything - here people, even though the streets might be full of mud have a respect and pride. Everyone can be seen and heard scraping their shoes on the pavement before entering a house or shop and there is always cardboard or cloths to stand on once you are inside! More crackers come, then a second cup, then more crackers - he prepares them like on a conveyer belt and for everyone that goes in my mouth 2 more appear in the bowl. He stands right next to me as I eat. The wife comes and goes from shop to kitchen to check on my appetite and imbide encouragement. 

After 15 minutes I think they can tell I am fit to burst and the conveyor belt stops. They are really very generous and kind - we communicate in 'poco' Spanish and Welsh and we are all really happy. The man sits opposite me and with the wifes instruction puts down his details - where they live and who they are. 'Celt' he says 'Celt!' Before I had taken a photo of him leaning up against his counter - he really had his left leg stretched out and was looking like he was warming up for some big gymnastic feat. When I pointed the camera at him he sprang upright and took a step into the middle of the room. I made a big "urgh!" with my head in my hand - covering my eyes - the wife roared with laughter - I say 'Moi Bien' = very well [Moy Bien] and he goes back to his original stance but unfortunately less so! [This is just THE problem...you see something that is great, lift the camera, the subject sees and moves instantly; even if they go back to their original pose it isnt the same. I need a totally hidden camera] I take the shot I love the position and direction of his hands and the greys and reds. I give them many thanks and I leave. They are the kindest yet. 

I go to the Telefonica: determined to sort this situation with Charlie - she isnt bothered anymore - I want to see if she wants to go down to Bath with me when I get back. I phone dead on 3 - leave a mesage - go on the net to see if she's emailed - No -then try phoning again - all I get is that "Im rude phoning while she's still teaching": I was ten minutes early! She is non-commital and aloof - she isnt sure about Bath and is tired out - I reassure her that at least she has a home to go to, a car, a Mum who cooks and she will have finished her job in 2 weeks. It is winter here, I am exhausted and dont have any family or friends here. She is a spoilt little princess. I dont tell her that though! I talk to the tune of 56 pesos. Ridiculous: thats almost a tenner - cheap by UK standards for an overseas call to a mobile for 1/2 hour but here it is alot of money! I have tried to convince her that all will be well but I shouldnt have to...she needs alot of convincing! I said I dont want to come back to the UK, especially since there is so much that I need to do out here, to find that she has gone off with someone else. That is the way it is feeling! I walk up to Hectors but his dad says that he isnt here - again peering through the narrow side door. What time shall I come back? At 3pm. After siesta. (Ive asked Charlie to text me please - it will only cost her 12p - it has been 48 hours since i phoned her still nothing!) Let it go! 

I decide to walk up to the petrol station - as I am almost there Tommi zooms past me and is talking with Pablo. It is today, Friday, that I ask about taking a bus to Ushuaia - the phone call yesterday was to Luned. I finally got through to her and she said I was suppossd to be photographing children singing to an elderly lady at her home but it has been cancelled - as has photographing Benito at 1:30pm on Friday. Luned had left a message on the table in the garage. This is why I wanted to go to Ushuaia - nothing is happening! I'll be happy with what I've got then fulfill my sponsors obligations then come home. Tommi doesnt have much time to talk in English today - he tells a mechanic about [me] in Spanish very fast and the mechanic eyes me with contempt from behind his greasy glasses. He walks out without saying goodbye - what has Tommi said? It doesnt matter. Tommi asks what am I doing now? Internet. No Ive used this already food. Everywhere is shut at lunch time as usual: Bloody siesta. 

He drops me off at the Pizza Restaurant I went to on the first Sunday I was here. I order a No.6 and Omar goes into the back to make it. I order at 2:22pm. At about 2:48pm it is ready and I wolf it down with a bottle of fizzy water! Omar shows me a photo by a Brazilian called 'Goldrub' - he has photographed Patagonia for a series of Exhibitions - one in Cardiff [&] at the National Library in '99 or 2000. The photo is of a view looking out of a pick-up truck front windscreen which is cracked from all the stones flying up off the dirt roads. It is b/w and is looking down a dirt track with the face of the driver in the rear view mirror. Alot of the cars here have cracked windscreens, because of the roads and it is odd getting into a Volkswagen Golf like this - in the UK you'd immediately go out and get a new one put in. There's no point here = expensive and it'd just get cracked again. Amazingly Tommi's is still in one piece. I think I prefer my photo of Tommi and Pablo in the Fiat looking backwards - but I would say that! I pay for the pizza, 'Omar' is looking for more photos to show me but I have to be at Hectors - Ive already been late once today! 

I walk as fast as I can up to Hectors - no reply - maybe he's pissed off with me? I walk up the side 'drive' to the recording studio - no reply - as I walk down to the road his Dad comes out and says he'll be another ten minutes. Hector arrives in a Volkswagen 'Gol' 'like a Golf but less so" [ the Golf car here in Argentina is badged as a 'Gol']. It has a huge crack across the windscreen - I like the way people might have a really good car but there is not so much, if any, 'car culture' here - a car is just a way to get from A to B - it has to be reliable but not fancy. Wots the point, no-one is impressed or bothered if it has furry-dice and a spoiler. All the dicks must be big enough. 

By the way - Ive emailed 'Mona Jones' Will Coch Y Moel's ex-wife about taking photos of her relatives out here and she's emailed me back twice now to say that she wants to come out while Im out here and will I give her all the info she needs in order to do it - Im not a tour operator for Gods sake! Thats the last thing i need - while im struggling here by myself to take good enough photos - Mona wants me to help her make a visit so she can show off to her friends and ex-husband. No doubt she'll bring Gareth with his little air rifle and Will the son strutting around like a demented cockerel bantam. I'll tell her it'll be too much of a culture shock! 

Hector and I go into the studio and, even though the Mini-Disc does record - it is at the wrong frequency and you have to turn the 'gain' right up to hear it. (The volume). Hector takes me to Fabio's - he is at the museum, Hector leaves me there. I thank him - " I need to buy another Mini-Disc that has a microphone 'IN' socket! Im not sure Fabio will help me...I sit and joke with Fabio - there is an excellent book there for 62 pesos with beautiful, good quality photos from 1888 onwards of the Welsh in Gaiman. There is an Indian man there [Ceferino Pichilaf] - varnishing a door frame and he allows me to take his photo. I get his name and dare to get real close - it's a job for the 6x7 really. I dont have it with me today. It was raining when I left the garage and i dont want to lug the 6x7 around in this depressing weather. I have to make do with the DL2. I take 3 real close-ups of his face - they'll have to do. He has huge moles all over the place. He says "Mochin bach" and we all laugh - he knows a bit of Welsh. He leaves after Fabio dusts off some old bottles etc that Ceferino arranges on a shelf whilst standing on a step-ladder. 

Fabio locks up an we're away in the Renault 9. He goes back home first - and we get stopped by a random car down at the YPF petrol station. The driver makes a'T' sign with his hands, I tell Fabio he wants a cup of tea! Fabio says it means he wants to talk. (Ive been in the museum for maybe 2 and a half hours - it closes at 6 - its quite chilly in there and there is an old 'range' on display that would have been used by the first settlers but it also works with gas now (used to be wood) - it is a nice touch and i sit next to it and read the Patagonian photography book. [the 'range' is an exhibit in the museum which has old irons and kettles on top of it to showcase how the first settlers cooked BUT it also serves to keep the museum warm in winter] There are huge kettles on top of it, with old irons and Ive joked with Fabio all this time to "get the kettle on" - "God you have to wait as long here as you do in Wales for a Panad!' Fabio says in a 'Woody Allen' way that Im making him depressed - he feels bad for not being more hospitable. We turn around and take the car - a girl from Paraguay and a boy from England or Wales up to Luned in the house - they are looking for somewhere to stay. 

Fabio stops at YPF for petrol - I offer to buy some he says No - so instead I buy a litre of chocolate milkshake! Off to Trelew - we drive out of town and onto the main road. There is plenty of traffic and an amazing sunset to the west - it is pitch black to the east but there is a thin strip of white just on the horizon where Bryn Crwn is. It is so clear - the light is incredible - I cant describe the clarity! A car overtakes and someone waves - it is Mari getting a lift to the airport. Fabio says how did she know it was us? I say she probably recognized the back of his head - more like mine Fabio jokes - the headlights were probably reflecting off my bald head! 

We continue to drive - Trelew is maybe 11kms away [about 17kms from Gaiman] - we go through the suburbs - the road goes from no light on either side to the odd factory, then houses - muddy streets- dogs, people walking all over then the middle of town - busier than Cardiff on Christmas Eve - because the shops stay open so late that is just what it feels like. 

[213 pages of hand-writing from first diary; approximately A6 in size - finished copying to computer on Thursday 14 February 2008 @ 18:15, Gaiman, Chubut, Patagonia].

UP TO THIS POINT THE BLOG CONSISTS OF 3 WEEKS WORTH OF WRITING WHICH FILLED UP ONE NOTEBOOK. I HAVE ANOTHER NOTEBOOK STILL TO COPY (THE LAST 3 WEEKS THAT MAKE UP THE 6 WEEKS OF NOTES I KEPT). I PLAN TO COPY IT OUT BY THE END OF FEBRUARY 2008 SO THAT THIS PERIOD OF ALL MY WRITING IS ON THE INTERNET. THEN I WILL JOURNEY TO THE ANDES TO DOCUMENT THE WELSH THERE...subsequent blogs will be posted onto PICASA WEB ALBUM; a quicker and easier way to blog for me.

Foot Note: I have copied out the second notebook (finished 29 February 2008) and made a PDF file of the WHOLE 6 week diary i.e. both notebooks together. The file can be read and downloaded from my website homepage at top right "Whole Diary of First Visit.pdf" at www.edgold.co.uk