Ed Gold Welsh Patagonian Blog

43 • Sunday 09 July 2006 - MERCADO GALES

2008-02-15T11:19:00.009-02:00

Sunday 09 July 06 - 11:02

The couple [Emyr & Melba Williams] come back and are ready but, again, because I dont have the language I cant get them to relax and just 'be' they have to pose traditionally - like in a Victorian photograph or a birthday photo! At first I am really bothered that they have to pose - I am worried that it will 'weaken' my photography and give it less clout - then I realize that it is life. This is the way I have found them; I am a documentary photographer not a fashion or film photographer that stages everything - this is life as I am encountering it.

An elderly man walks by and the shop owner opens the door and asks him to come in to be included in a photo. He speaks a bit of English and has a cutting dry sense of humour - but is playful! He leaves soon (man in black raincoat) and the friend leaves soon after. I thank them very much and am about to go when the lady offers a "Panad o te". It is 10:30am - I should be at hectors soon. I accept and go into the back, to the living room and tiny kitchen - everything is spotless - I guess it is pride but also in such a small town if word gets out you are slightly dirty then that is your business done for! I am still wearing my black waterproof trousers and jacket and it is starting to rain with moisture inside them!

I am told to sit down and the couple happily and busily set to - putting the kettle on, putting a teabag in a cup - getting crackers and margarine and 'Pelones' jam out. The man tends to take over a bit and enthusiastically puts the jam and marge onto the crackers and sets them into a bowl for me. I get my DL2 out - this is a great opportunity to capture some great candid work but I realize that it would be rude - they have proudly stood in front of the camera after going into the back to prepare themselves, to look their best and they certainly wont want to be caught putting maragrine onto crackers! I never thought that photography here would be so different - it is nothing in Britain to take a photo of anyone doing anything - here people, even though the streets might be full of mud have a respect and pride. Everyone can be seen and heard scraping their shoes on the pavement before entering a house or shop and there is always cardboard or cloths to stand on once you are inside! More crackers come, then a second cup, then more crackers - he prepares them like on a conveyer belt and for everyone that goes in my mouth 2 more appear in the bowl. He stands right next to me as I eat. The wife comes and goes from shop to kitchen to check on my appetite and imbide encouragement.

After 15 minutes I think they can tell I am fit to burst and the conveyor belt stops. They are really very generous and kind - we communicate in 'poco' Spanish and Welsh and we are all really happy. The man sits opposite me and with the wifes instruction puts down his details - where they live and who they are. 'Celt' he says 'Celt!' Before I had taken a photo of him leaning up against his counter - he really had his left leg stretched out and was looking like he was warming up for some big gymnastic feat. When I pointed the camera at him he sprang upright and took a step into the middle of the room. I made a big "urgh!" with my head in my hand - covering my eyes - the wife roared with laughter - I say 'Moi Bien' = very well [Moy Bien] and he goes back to his original stance but unfortunately less so! [This is just THE problem...you see something that is great, lift the camera, the subject sees and moves instantly; even if they go back to their original pose it isnt the same. I need a totally hidden camera] I take the shot I love the position and direction of his hands and the greys and reds. I give them many thanks and I leave. They are the kindest yet.

I go to the Telefonica: determined to sort this situation with Charlie - she isnt bothered anymore - I want to see if she wants to go down to Bath with me when I get back. I phone dead on 3 - leave a mesage - go on the net to see if she's emailed - No -then try phoning again - all I get is that "Im rude phoning while she's still teaching": I was ten minutes early! She is non-commital and aloof - she isnt sure about Bath and is tired out - I reassure her that at least she has a home to go to, a car, a Mum who cooks and she will have finished her job in 2 weeks. It is winter here, I am exhausted and dont have any family or friends here. She is a spoilt little princess. I dont tell her that though! I talk to the tune of 56 pesos. Ridiculous: thats almost a tenner - cheap by UK standards for an overseas call to a mobile for 1/2 hour but here it is alot of money! I have tried to convince her that all will be well but I shouldnt have to...she needs alot of convincing! I said I dont want to come back to the UK, especially since there is so much that I need to do out here, to find that she has gone off with someone else. That is the way it is feeling! I walk up to Hectors but his dad says that he isnt here - again peering through the narrow side door. What time shall I come back? At 3pm. After siesta. (Ive asked Charlie to text me please - it will only cost her 12p - it has been 48 hours since i phoned her still nothing!) Let it go!

I decide to walk up to the petrol station - as I am almost there Tommi zooms past me and is talking with Pablo. It is today, Friday, that I ask about taking a bus to Ushuaia - the phone call yesterday was to Luned. I finally got through to her and she said I was suppossd to be photographing children singing to an elderly lady at her home but it has been cancelled - as has photographing Benito at 1:30pm on Friday. Luned had left a message on the table in the garage. This is why I wanted to go to Ushuaia - nothing is happening! I'll be happy with what I've got then fulfill my sponsors obligations then come home. Tommi doesnt have much time to talk in English today - he tells a mechanic about [me] in Spanish very fast and the mechanic eyes me with contempt from behind his greasy glasses. He walks out without saying goodbye - what has Tommi said? It doesnt matter. Tommi asks what am I doing now? Internet. No Ive used this already food. Everywhere is shut at lunch time as usual: Bloody siesta.

He drops me off at the Pizza Restaurant I went to on the first Sunday I was here. I order a No.6 and Omar goes into the back to make it. I order at 2:22pm. At about 2:48pm it is ready and I wolf it down with a bottle of fizzy water! Omar shows me a photo by a Brazilian called 'Goldrub' - he has photographed Patagonia for a series of Exhibitions - one in Cardiff [&] at the National Library in '99 or 2000. The photo is of a view looking out of a pick-up truck front windscreen which is cracked from all the stones flying up off the dirt roads. It is b/w and is looking down a dirt track with the face of the driver in the rear view mirror. Alot of the cars here have cracked windscreens, because of the roads and it is odd getting into a Volkswagen Golf like this - in the UK you'd immediately go out and get a new one put in. There's no point here = expensive and it'd just get cracked again. Amazingly Tommi's is still in one piece. I think I prefer my photo of Tommi and Pablo in the Fiat looking backwards - but I would say that! I pay for the pizza, 'Omar' is looking for more photos to show me but I have to be at Hectors - Ive already been late once today!

I walk as fast as I can up to Hectors - no reply - maybe he's pissed off with me? I walk up the side 'drive' to the recording studio - no reply - as I walk down to the road his Dad comes out and says he'll be another ten minutes. Hector arrives in a Volkswagen 'Gol' 'like a Golf but less so" [ the Golf car here in Argentina is badged as a 'Gol']. It has a huge crack across the windscreen - I like the way people might have a really good car but there is not so much, if any, 'car culture' here - a car is just a way to get from A to B - it has to be reliable but not fancy. Wots the point, no-one is impressed or bothered if it has furry-dice and a spoiler. All the dicks must be big enough.

By the way - Ive emailed 'Mona Jones' Will Coch Y Moel's ex-wife about taking photos of her relatives out here and she's emailed me back twice now to say that she wants to come out while Im out here and will I give her all the info she needs in order to do it - Im not a tour operator for Gods sake! Thats the last thing i need - while im struggling here by myself to take good enough photos - Mona wants me to help her make a visit so she can show off to her friends and ex-husband. No doubt she'll bring Gareth with his little air rifle and Will the son strutting around like a demented cockerel bantam. I'll tell her it'll be too much of a culture shock!

Hector and I go into the studio and, even though the Mini-Disc does record - it is at the wrong frequency and you have to turn the 'gain' right up to hear it. (The volume). Hector takes me to Fabio's - he is at the museum, Hector leaves me there. I thank him - " I need to buy another Mini-Disc that has a microphone 'IN' socket! Im not sure Fabio will help me...I sit and joke with Fabio - there is an excellent book there for 62 pesos with beautiful, good quality photos from 1888 onwards of the Welsh in Gaiman. There is an Indian man there [Ceferino Pichilaf] - varnishing a door frame and he allows me to take his photo. I get his name and dare to get real close - it's a job for the 6x7 really. I dont have it with me today. It was raining when I left the garage and i dont want to lug the 6x7 around in this depressing weather. I have to make do with the DL2. I take 3 real close-ups of his face - they'll have to do. He has huge moles all over the place. He says "Mochin bach" and we all laugh - he knows a bit of Welsh. He leaves after Fabio dusts off some old bottles etc that Ceferino arranges on a shelf whilst standing on a step-ladder.

Fabio locks up an we're away in the Renault 9. He goes back home first - and we get stopped by a random car down at the YPF petrol station. The driver makes a'T' sign with his hands, I tell Fabio he wants a cup of tea! Fabio says it means he wants to talk. (Ive been in the museum for maybe 2 and a half hours - it closes at 6 - its quite chilly in there and there is an old 'range' on display that would have been used by the first settlers but it also works with gas now (used to be wood) - it is a nice touch and i sit next to it and read the Patagonian photography book. [the 'range' is an exhibit in the museum which has old irons and kettles on top of it to showcase how the first settlers cooked BUT it also serves to keep the museum warm in winter] There are huge kettles on top of it, with old irons and Ive joked with Fabio all this time to "get the kettle on" - "God you have to wait as long here as you do in Wales for a Panad!' Fabio says in a 'Woody Allen' way that Im making him depressed - he feels bad for not being more hospitable. We turn around and take the car - a girl from Paraguay and a boy from England or Wales up to Luned in the house - they are looking for somewhere to stay.

Fabio stops at YPF for petrol - I offer to buy some he says No - so instead I buy a litre of chocolate milkshake! Off to Trelew - we drive out of town and onto the main road. There is plenty of traffic and an amazing sunset to the west - it is pitch black to the east but there is a thin strip of white just on the horizon where Bryn Crwn is. It is so clear - the light is incredible - I cant describe the clarity! A car overtakes and someone waves - it is Mari getting a lift to the airport. Fabio says how did she know it was us? I say she probably recognized the back of his head - more like mine Fabio jokes - the headlights were probably reflecting off my bald head!

We continue to drive - Trelew is maybe 11kms away [about 17kms from Gaiman] - we go through the suburbs - the road goes from no light on either side to the odd factory, then houses - muddy streets- dogs, people walking all over then the middle of town - busier than Cardiff on Christmas Eve - because the shops stay open so late that is just what it feels like.

[213 pages of hand-writing from first diary; approximately A6 in size - finished copying to computer on Thursday 14 February 2008 @ 18:15, Gaiman, Chubut, Patagonia].

UP TO THIS POINT THE BLOG CONSISTS OF 3 WEEKS WORTH OF WRITING WHICH FILLED UP ONE NOTEBOOK. I HAVE ANOTHER NOTEBOOK STILL TO COPY (THE LAST 3 WEEKS THAT MAKE UP THE 6 WEEKS OF NOTES I KEPT). I PLAN TO COPY IT OUT BY THE END OF FEBRUARY 2008 SO THAT THIS PERIOD OF ALL MY WRITING IS ON THE INTERNET. THEN I WILL JOURNEY TO THE ANDES TO DOCUMENT THE WELSH THERE...subsequent blogs will be posted onto PICASA WEB ALBUM; a quicker and easier way to blog for me.

Foot Note: I have copied out the second notebook (finished 29 February 2008) and made a PDF file of the WHOLE 6 week diary i.e. both notebooks together. The file can be read and downloaded from my website homepage at top right "Whole Diary of First Visit.pdf" at www.edgold.co.uk

42 • Saturday 08 July 2006 - DO I STAY OR DO I GO?

2008-02-15T11:09:00.003-02:00

Well it's 2:41pm here on Saturday 8th July and Ive been writing since 10:17am - 4 HRS and 24 mins. 5 and a half pages! (of A6?)

I had a text from Marie this morning telling me to cheer-up but no text yet from Charlie...the last one is 3rd July on Monday? it's funny that all the ex's want to stay in touch but the current one doesnt know what she's got 'till its gone! Marie texts me today and says: "Hi Ed, thanx 4 email have sent reply - Hey u ya rock steady crew...cheer up will ya? Av a look at yr jumpr that'l make u laugh! I guess its temptin to stay there when u have uch a low opinion of Britain and an even lower 1 of Wales. I sincerely think u need 2 b sumplace more cultured than here. Smile ED X RB."

[Marie Adamson {Kennedy} was a girlfriend I lived with for 1 year in Llanedwen, Anglesey. It was 'sex at first sight' and within 2 weeks I was living in her house; she needed someone to pay rent. She had 2 kids from 2 different men; one who had been a husband, rapist and wife-beater 'Tom'. It was the hardest year of my life; I was permeanently paranoid that she was seeing other men (and a woman) behind my back and by all accounts she was; it was only 3 weeks after I moved in with her that her whole body language changed and she wouldnt talk to me for days on end. I had been living in a caravan and was desperately unhappy being so lonely and wished upon the stars for a partner. I got what I wished for which ultimately taught me that being single is perhaps alot better. As a friend put it recentley: "Why buy a cow when you can get the milk for free". I left her exactly a year later and within 6 weeks she was engaged to an ex-boyfriend. Marie lived with him for 2 more years; she had lived with him for 6 years originally (before the one year with me)...towards the end of those last 2 years with 'Fred', I called her up when I was back on Anglesey for a few days and we met up in Rhosneigr for a chat. In her car, behind a re-cycling bottle bank we had sex for the last time which confirmed to me that I had been paraniod with good cause for all the time I was with her; if she could cheat on him with me then why not with others whilst I was with her? That night I slept rough along the side of Halfords in Bangor, blissfully happy that I wasnt mad after all. Soon after Marie left Fred and she's now back with 'Tom'. One for the psychologists.]

- Okay - Thursday...is a slow day - I remember that Luned mentions something about Thursday but I cant remember what it is!...I try phoning her but it turns out the cleaner is the only one at home [Palmira], I dont want to go round there too much in case I get charged [that's a joke] - I walk up to Sarmiento Street initially to make the phone call but the pay phone is out of order! The space where you put the coins is barred, there is a woman waiting with a new mobile phone - I see her come out of the phone shop as I walk past. I guess she wants to top her phone up - I walk out of the kiosk past her - swearing - "Jesus Christ" - under my breathe. i'm in a rush and dont tell her its "Kaput!" I hear her go in as I round the corner and say "Heyyy!" very loudly - she bangs the telephone and rattles the barring mechanism which stops you putting coins in! I speed up and almost run - I dont want to have a scene on the pavement with an angry local. She is all dolled up, with fancy nails, hair and make-up and has very thin drawn-in eye brows high up on her fore-head. Yuk! [I later find out that she has 3 kids from 3 different men; these type of women are universal; sex and money]

All my positive energy about being here is draining - and its down to not hearing from Charlie - I dont want to have to motorcycle to Bath the next day by myself [after I was meant to return to the UK in late July] and I get the impression she's 'playing away'. I cant remember if Ive already checked my emails this day - maybe not yet. I go to the phone booth on the square and try from it. The number '1' is working again and I phone 491007...the old cleaner answers and just says "Hola, Hola" as I try to ask for Luned - I imagine her, getting paid 10 cents a day and standing there with a hearing trumpet pressed to the phone. Like Tegai but 150 years older. I give up say "Perdon" and put the phone down.

I'll go to the petrol station - I see Tommi in Fiat on the High Street - he stops - I climb in and we head up to see Pablo. I see the 'eyebrows' on the corner, playing with her phone, luckily the windscreen has misted up since I climbed in and she doesnt see me. I tell Tommi and he laughs - he says many people try to get coins out of the phones here with a wire and many dont work here. I think of Britain! We drive up. And have a good laugh about Luned.

I asked yesterday if it was normal to invite someone around and then charge them for food. Tommi and Pablo looked disgusted - They said it was rude - I said also in UK it is damn rude! They saw the funny side and told me that meatballs are known as "Al bondigas". So Luned is known as "Luned El Expensivo Al Bondigas". This sounds like "Bondeegas" I and the others are roaring with laughter. Tommi says he thinks this story might make her famous! (and seems to insist on telling everyone that comes in). Tommi says that he has to go to Trelew today but he'll look out for a microphone and more digital memory for me there. I write down in his notebook what I need. We use the phone in the petrol station to try Luned again - Tommi puts my 25 cents into the phone as [he] speaks with the cleaner. He doesnt understand alot but knows Luned is out. When the call is over the 25 cents falls out the side of the phone and he puts the coin in his pocket. Money is scarce here - even if ts 25 cents! Maybe he put in his own 25 to start with and it got ate up and I owed him? I dont know it doesnt matter! im too tired.

08 July 2006 22:05 Ive got to stop using the digital! I used the 6x7 today for a shot of a model aeroplane at a sign on the road for a 'chacra' [farm]. It felt really good and when I looked through the viewfinder I think I actually saw in black and white! negro y blanco. [blanco y negro]. 233A [No. of chacra] I know that Im not getting the shots yet that I need. We go and sit in the office of the petrol station - Tommi and Pablo talk extremely fast in Spanish - perhaps so I dont understand? It's quite boring and 'Pero' comes in to play. The dog gets shooed outside and I stand up to look at a wall map of Argentina - I feel like time is against me and I might as well call my work of the Welsh here a day! It is too slow - Tommi has to look after his elderly Mother and we seem to be going out just every other day. (By Saturday I have paid him a total of 80 pesos so far!) out of 4 times. I decide Im going to go out to Ushuaia - the furthermost southern city in the world! That way I will have done my best for my sponsor 'Snugpak' who kindly gave me alot of cold weather kit - Ive emailed Darren Burrell - the marketing guy and said I have an idea to go there and take a shot of me in the kit next to the city sign: "to the ends of the earth" "Snugpak..." etc. He replied to say that was good, that he had been talking about me at the weekend and they have used some of my photos for their leaflets at a show recently! I ask Tommi and Pablo about getting a coach south and they both enthusiastically look through 'El Chubut' - the paper to look for the timetabel section of the different coaches that travel around the area. Tommi and I make some phone calls - or rather he makes them but the guy at the other end says phone back. It is time to leave. We say goodbye to Pablo = siesta time.

Down to the town. Do I use the Telefonica kiosk? This is getting ridiculous [I cant remember what I have done]...anyway I know as far as my photo taking goes on this day that I walk up to Hector MacDonalds and I knock on his door. I have met him in El Dragon and he was really keen to get me around to his for a 'mate'; he could talk and talk and his wife is keen to get him home! He opens a side window to the front door and we talk for a bit - I have heard singing as I walk up the steps and I think he has a girl choir in his front room. But the speakers are so good that it is actually of his PC. He is finalizing some work called the "Mabinogi" he has helped put together. he is very welcoming when he lets me in...but he looks at me weird - I think this coldsore on my lower lip has everyone thinking that Ive got some horrific medieval disease! We go into the kitchen and he prepares 'mate' to his Grandma's blend. He says you boil the kettle until its 2 seconds from boiling and then take it off the gas otherwise it 'burns' the Yerba. We go up to his studio - he also has a garage a bit like Donal Whelan's that he has made into a Recording/ Mastering Studio. At the same time a dark woman arrives with her blind son - Gustav Jones and we all go into the Recording Studio. We talk for quite a while and I say that it is Gustav's time - I dont want to monopolize anything! Hector pours hot water from the flask into the 'mate' [bowl] and we pass it around - it is good mate but as you suck on the "Bombilla" there is a mild aroma as though someone has pee'd their pants. I try not to think too hard. Maybe his granmothers blend is...No, No. Uhm, it's lovely. I take a shot of Gustav and his Mum before she leaves - they have come from Trelew and will be 2 hours. I take a shot of Gustav and Hector together and it comes out well! Hector has a look - he pauses and says "You have a good eye". Then they are back to work.

Hector plays a track that have recorded before and Gustav plays another line for it on the electric keyboard. It is great to watch as Gustav feels his way around the organ he is a very good musician. He also speaks good English - he is only 20 or 25 but has studied in America. I sit and listen, eat some sweets from a bowl on the desk write some notes. The floor is cold - I have taken my shoes off as usual out of respect but the sun shines in beautifully from the window - "Lindo"="lovely". The shot I first took of Hector and Gustav together is 'the one' and I decide to leave - I think I go to the Telefonica - I know that on the Wed, Thurs, Fri I am trying like mad to phone Charlie. My memory has almost gone for Thursday now but what I do remember is deciding that I'll go and see Mari. I try to phone but I dont have the number and keep on getting it wrong...491009. "Hola" says the woman - I ask for Mari - there is no 'Mari' here -(in Spanish) only Sonia - how ironic she was a girlfriend from college - by name; not actually her! I say 'Perdon' and hang up. Thats the first time - I think I go home then try phoning from the Tello Avenue [Avenida Tello].

Sod it - I'll walk up. I listen with my ear to the door but no noise = no lessons. I ring the bell - silence. I knock and a very worried Mari says "Hola?". I say its Ed and you can feel the sigh of relief! She says she is locked in and doesnt have the key...I'll have to find the side door - go around to my left. I do so and eventually find her - I think she meant go around to my right! We go in and we laugh alot, she is going away on holiday tomorrow and Luned has said since there is only 1 key - that Mari will have to get another 'cut'. A man has come round and taken the key away, Mari saying that she needs it back at the latest by 5 tomorrow! This means that she has to have the door locked now in case she has to go out (use the backdoor) - she cant leave the front unlocked. I say for a moment I thought you'd have to pass a 'Panad' through the letterbox! and poke her hands through and do sign language to Spanish only speakers! She makes a brew - me with Virgin Islands filter bag coffee bag thingy. We sit opposite each other - she in a wicker chair - I ask to sit on the chair on the chair at the table - the sofa's too comfortable! And I feel a 'twot' reclining back on creamy coloured PVC cushions. We talk for quite a while - I say I have to go (I desperately have to eat I say) but she says the Supermercado doesnt close until 11pm - she wants me to stay I can tell. Maybe just someone to talk to - but she doesnt bloomin well offer to make a sandwich! Typical Welsh! tut tut tut Ed - be careful now! [maybe Mari didnt have anything 'in' to offer - whatever; she's very nice anyway!] Im 'flaking' and the conversation is really slow - just like the other night when I forgot what I was saying - she does too...we're both Geminis and maybe too similar? She is going to Iguazu Falls with a friend who is coming out from Wales: Mari has to fly from Trelew tomorrow.

There is a knock and a bell at the door - Mari looks worried - "what will I do?" (How will she explain not being able to open the door if the person isnt Welsh or English?) Luckily the person is the man with the new key - he tries it; it works, "Muchas muchas muchas gracias" Mari says. She pays - saying she doesnt know why Luned cannot pay for it - I laugh - there's no chance of that! Mari says she'll probably be back next week-mid-week and will see me before I go. I leave by the front and she very loudly says "Thanks for calling round to see me!" like she wants everyone who is hiding behind their curtains to know that I havent bee round there shagging! Oh well. I walk back quickly. Fuck! The supermarket just before the bridge is closed - I knew it. Im feeling feint! Back home - sod writing! Straight to bed. Thursday night I dont sleep at all well! I try having a wank which normally helps but Charlie on my mind1 I think back to our conversation when it sounded echoey and realize she had probably slipped out of her sisters flat when the phone went and was talking in the corridor - she didnt want someone in the flat to hear - she is looking after it...her sister is away in Sri Lanka - Holly and Scott - a right pair if ever you met them!

It is literally dawn when I doze off - tossing and turning - I have too much sexual energy and need a shag! Oh God what am I going to do!? Im pissed off that Charlie isnt getting in touch - she wants to grow-up! I get out of bed at between 9 and 10am - this is getting a regular thing - but at least I am resting naturally and dont have Mr. Fordham shouting at me! [Farmer who used to be next door neighbour from the mid 1970s and who I work for occassionally] "You're like a Puffin! Full of shit and cant fly!" "Urgh Mr. Fordham! Puffins do fly you dozey twonk!" (can't fly as in wont get a move on!) Mr.Fordham would shout at me through the door of the bedroom he had given me to stay in at his house while I was helping him out on the farm. Trouble was that he was feeding me; 2 slices of toast for breakfast, a pastie for lunch and a pie for supper or a large baked potato I would have to pick out from the pile meant for the cattle to eat in the farmyard. I was going to bed at 1am and getting up at 7am. Something had happened to me because I was knackered all the time. Back in my early twenties I could work 12 hours a day on the farm, drink 8 pints of Guinness at the pub every night, go to bed after 1am and be up at 6am to start work again without a problem. Fordham would say that Puffins couldnt fly because he meant I wasnt getting out of bed quickly enough - I was a Puffin! If Steven Spielberg ever met David Fordham he would make a blockbuster about him!]

Friday (23:29 on 08 July 06)
At last im back to being just 2 days behind - Ive arranged with Hector to come round in the morning - but today is a strange day. Ive also arranged yesterday that I'll call Charlie at 11am - which is her 3pm - when she finishes teaching. I phone as soon as my mobile phone's clock tells me that it is 3 - I dont want her to say Im phoning late [I havent yet learnt properly in life to raise my self-esteem high enough to tell stupid little bitches like Charlie to get stuffed]. I leave a voice mail - no reply.

Anyway before all of that shit I decide to walk up to 'Mercado Gales' the Welsh shop. I walk past it and see the husband and wife, sitting next to the fire reading the papers. This is the shot i want - I have seen him and her before and he has even turned and caught me staring in at their ultra clean shop, fairly empty shelves and quiet - no-one ever seems to go in there! i decide to go in - the street is deserted and I have all my waterproofs on - I feel like an American tourist expecting a Nuclear war! Earlier 2 middle aged men had cycled past me, not much faster than walking pace with no waterproofs, no-one has them - in the pissing rain. I go in and he immediately jumps up and stands next to the counter - I explain and show the newspaper cutting/article - he understands though is slow to trust me. eventually they agree and are very nice but both he and she leave the room to arrange themselves - he I dont know but she wants to tidy her hair. This is so different from photographing in N. Wales. There is a friend on one of the white plastic seats and we are left there - he to look at the gas fire and me to study the items on sale.

41 • Wednesday 05 July 2006 - BACK TO FRONT & ROUND AND ROUND

2008-02-15T11:01:00.004-02:00

Wednesday 05 July 2006.

Fuck! What happened today? On Friday - when I see Tommi - he asks me how I am? "Bien Thank you!" I say.

"Fuck you!" Tommi says, "or Thank you?!" Then he asks me where the term 'Fuck' comes from? I say I think it means to put something in a hole? Gurgh! Dickhead!

Tommi corrects me - He says he finds on the internet that Fuck stands for "Fornicate under chair of the king" - hundreds of years ago you had to have the kings permission or blessing to have children. Quite why he has looked this up on the internet I dont know!? But he seems pleased he has taught me about my own culture, in my own language and it shows in his face as we continue to talk - only slightly though - one upmanship...wednesday, wednesday, wednesday?...I know I meet with Tommi on this day - Im glad I have the digital camera - it is like a diary and I can refer back to it to see what photos I took on what day!

Thank God on past pages I find that Ive written down a summary of Wednesday - things start to feel better again - even though Charlie hasnt been in touch but funnily Kate tried phoning and Marie has emailed and texted! I go to the bank to change my remaining US Dollars for Pesos. I go in and stand with my back to the wall just checking the place out and working which kiosk I have to go to out - as there are old women everywhere, like clucking Hens, cluttering the place up! I see a woman in black to my left wearing body armour - a bullet proof vest, high black boots and an automatic pistol. She looks like Lara Croft - I catch her eye and turn my head - I dont want her to think Im about to rob the place. She walks towards me and stands closer to me - on a second glance she looks like Lara Crofts Mum but she is still good looking - mmm - those boots and that gun! [on a woman really does it for me!] There is a funny looking little cubicle near the door that I guess is an armour plated place for the police person to go when a shoot-out starts. It looks like it has its own oxygen supply - I guess after Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid were around here last they're taking no chances! [The famous outlaws made it as far as here, if not further south in Patagonia when going about their work as bank robbers and fugitives] I finally decide to head to a queue which is moving more rapidly. The Tomb-Raider is within karate chopping distance - I put my head down and wait for the blow to my neck. Luckily a man knows her, behind me, and he gives her a kiss on the cheek - they talk. I move forwards and have - I dont remember - maybe 700 pesos.

I leave for Ririds and a second 'Gaceta' - partly to see him again and just to buy a back-up copy for my Portfolio - (of the photography article). He talks in Welsh, I say 'Bore da' etc and he says 'Bendigedig' - I laugh - its just so weird hearing Welsh spoken here - I almost feel as though I am in Wales! And the whole town is one big muddy farmyard! This could almost be somewhere on Anglesey. I thank him and head to Siop Bara - I still dont have any more milk for my cornflakes 'Copos de Maiz' so I want to wake up with coffee and pastries! 2 bubbly cups of white stuff and 2 cake things. One is gone in a flash - boom - a thin pastrie croissant sticky thing with creme - actually an 'ersartz' blob of goo and a - what I think is white chocolate is a round 2 inch high crusty door knob that was originally made from porcelain but over the last millenia has fossilized into a flakey, dusty 'stratafied' archeological find that falls apart and dissapears onto the floor as I put it to my mouth. There is a subtle taste of butterscotch [dulce de leche] but it is light as imagination - this is perhaps slightly past its best before date. There is a brown gluey layer [dulce de leche] holding a layer of sugar to a layer of dandruff etc. I eat it quickly so that no-one coming in to buy bread can point and say "Oh my God, he's eating one of those!"

Phew - I just have to drink this, slurp this cup of fairy liquid down and order another one. I ask for "Muchos Grande" but I got the same one back - a Vole couldnt bathe in this much! [I find it incredible, embarrassing and surprising that I originally came to Patagonia with just 2 words of Spanish and managed to get by from listening to others - now I can converse happily with anyone; without any lessons or proper tuition].

I write until 12 and walk to the Petrol Station. I try to communicate with Pablo and try to fool with Pero the puppy but its having none of it - he just's want to sun-bathe. Tommi arrives and I tell him about my Sony microphone problem...he takes me to the Telefonica Cabin and finds a Directory - the "Jello Pages" - I think of it wobbling. He finds Sony and we go into a kiosk - he cant get through...then someone answers but hangs up...[its quite normal to phone a business/company in Argentina and they hang-up on you; if they dont feel like talking they dont!] The professor man comes rushing in and hands me a copy of the Gaceta [Im copying every word I wrote in my diary down...it gets quite tedious when I realize Ive repeated myself in places..I think Im right in remembering that I was really concerned with getting as much detail to the page as possible and anxious that I mustn't miss a moment - so I ended up wasting time and repeating parts] - that he originally photographed me for, in my first hour here, he finds the page and also points out his email address so I can stay in touch.

Tommi leaves and I email Sony in Argentina, and other people...maybe Marie, Charlie, Sony in UK etc. By the time I finish everywhere is closed - Siesta time again! For Gods sake. I find 1 shop I haven't used before for 2 large packs of crisps - as I left the Telefonica I also bought a large bar of 'Blok'. That was OK but the crisps must be full of artificial shite and my mood turns really weird! I am edgey and grumpy and really irritable.

I get back at 3:20pm and dont even have time for 'mate' - I boil the kettle but have to turn the gas off before boiling. Tommi arrives and we head off again, down a side road out of town - first heading west to Dolavon and then slightly south. We first go along a road Ive seen before, been on before...we go to Gwynfe first to ask him for directions to Tommi's uncle's farm - he's not too sure. Gwynfe sits down, smiles alot and laughs but looks really tired, the poor man [some people think that the day I first met him; when he had the accident with the trailer is when Cancer took hold of him...5 months later, to the day, Gwynfe passed away]

We leave and pass the fields Tommi turned back to the other day - we see an Emu in the field! and it runs along next to the car - it is great. We stop and see 3 in the field across the unsurfaced road and realize that the one on our right is trying to get back to the others. As soon as I get out it 'pegs' it - a couple of bounds and it is half a field away. I approach the others on the opposite side but they are shy. I try and line a shot up that makes it look more interesting - but it isnt going to work. I dont bother - I am also concerned that I am using too many digital exposures up! Before the Emus we stopped at a long drive to a brick house set back to the river - I cannot remember its name but Tommi said his uncle and relatives used to live here [the house I later photographed Vilda Williams in] when they first moved to Patagonia but have since sold it - a woman comes out and you can only see the white of her face, the black of her hair and her clothes. Another woman joins her and we look at them from the car at each other as though we have never seen other humans before. Im not sure what is going on - I am hoping that Tommi will us there but he says his Uncle has sold it and he doesnt know who lives there now.

We stop at the Emu then carry on. We go along many roads [these are all along the valley floor of the Chubut valley], all bumpy and the stones slamming underneath us, past rows of beautiful silvery tall Poplars and trees that have fallen and been sawn up for fire-wood, but left blocking one side of the road. We swerve around it and carry on. Up ahead looms a vision of Don Quixote or Baron Von Munchausen. It is of a large horse with an equally large man on it - walking in the same direction as us - with a beret on, with the stalk , long and pointy sticking out of the top. He has a black moustache and a face of well carved statue - determined. There are stirrups - which are square leather ad huge but his feet/ legs hang out of them and gangle down at the side looking like he is bareback. I wave as does Tommi but I dont ask Tommi to stop - I feel that I would be mucking Tommi around to keep on stopping [Im an absolute fool; I feel positvely tortured without words for any other comparison when I fail to take a photograph of something I see and want to capture...it happened this time and plays on mind every moment for weeks after and then re-occurs again like now whilst Im writing this...the same thing happened not too long ago in Buenos Aires walking past a park with 2 women seated on a bench and in between them a Beagle dog standing on its hind legs with stomach resting on the seat with head pointing in opposite direction to owners; out the back of the bench, staring down longily at another dog sleeping in the street - I was absolutely grief stricken I wasnt carrying my camera then. These are the great photos I should be taking!] and I think my crisp eating only tiredness is putting a strain on the mission today. A voice says " Ed - you have come here to photograph Welsh speakers" - but I will always regret not stopping for that shot - the man, his horse, the poplars.

We get to Tommi's uncles house and are very near to the looming steppe of the side of the valley on the Bryn Gwyn Side. It is like a 'Prog Rock' painting of an unheard Band of the seventies - a beautiful colourful and psychedelic painting of a lush green valley with hills far far away in the distance - on either side - or something from 'Lord of the Rings'. We arrive and Tommi talks to the Indian farm-hand who is stocky, wears a lumberkack shirt, has a hat on - a 'beanie' hat cocked at an angle and is working under a Ford Escort. He says there is someone home - it is Tommie's Aunt. The uncle is out so I take some shots and have to ask Tommi to back out of one of the shots but I think I do it in a way that makes me bossy or I snap or something. I have alot of Tommi already [in the photos] and if I can use this one I dont want too many of him as well. The dog -"Bebe" (Baby) cocks one ear up and that's it. I take a b/w shot with the 6x7 and try to get Bebe's attention, or turn around as she is down the side of the house. Tommi tells me sternly "to take the photograph!" I do so and feel he is fed-up - maybe it is the strain of him trying to make himself understood and me trying to understand - again this is the chief problem - if I had the language and transport I'd be laughing! Also I feel that Tommi isn't as sure as talking talking to people as I am and it perhaps isn't done here to be so bold - it might be rude? We leave to say we'll come back another time.

We go to Bryn Crwyn Chapel, I hope to se the horse-rider agagin! There is an amazing sky and we stop along a very straight road, they are all straight, that travels up to Ruta 25. I get the sky, but have to really underexpose to get it - this means that the foreground is too dark. I will have to Photoshop it! to bring it out. If it was a normally metered shot, in general - including the sky it would make the sky white but have the foreground normal. I dont have a tripod and cannot do a long exposure. I tand on a wire fence where 2 fences ru at right angles to each other and try to balance - I want to show the chapel next to the long road and try to emphasize the vastness and loneliness of where it is situated. Im not happy that shot is how Id like it but make sure I have the sky as it is and how it actually looks to the human eye! We go nearer in the Fiat and it takes a while to explain that Id kindly like him not to park in front of the gates as Id like to take a photo of the chapel from the road. he understands and apologizes - it's OK. He goes into the field, to the outhouses, but they are locked, the chapel is locked too, I stay on the road edge and take a pee there, on the opposite side to the chapel while Tommi pees modestly away in a clump of trees.

We head toward Ruta 25 and onto it. We turn right toward Gaiman and pull over after a few kilometres. This, Tommi explains, is where Ririd Williams from the shop was born, although the small house now stands on the place that Ririd was born before. Tommi explained this before, yesterday or the day before and he has to prompt me that actually this is not 'the' house but one that has been built on the site of the one before. Tommi is terse. There is a large tyre - half of it sticking out of the side of the road, the dry salty sand and it has 'Loco' painted on its side. I tell Tommi and he has no reaction - maybe we are thinking the same thing - that I am mad. I think that we are heading home and it doesnt feel like we've achieved much - or at least on the photography side [This is something I'd like to write about in detail sometime...the whole process of taking a photograph. In a nutshell 'serendipity' is what happens when a good shot is taken; it cannot be forced or manufactured if it is going to be good. Driving around the Chubut valley with Tommi I was seeing all sorts of details that would have made great photographs. Moments in time keep changing and not alot stays the same. I cant expect to capture all that I see; I'd need a very big net for that so I have to tell myself that the images I do record were meant to be and the ones I miss were not.] - but Tommi says to himself - "maybe it is here..." and we travel right off the main road and away from the edge of Bryn Crwyn toward the middle of the valley - but very shortly we cross a bridge to the canal - I dont think it is the river. Over the concrete bridge and we reverse down the track to a house.[Davey James]

There is a blue 1950s Dodge pick-up that has a problem with the carburettor and a tall man with absolutely no hair. We shake hands and chat for a while. I ask if I can take a photo of someone next to the waterwheel I spied as we drove over the bridge. - "But there is no water..." it doesnt matter it isnt working - I want to be able to see the whole structure! Tommigoes back to the house - I think to get "Telly Savalas" but instead the Dad comes along with excellent neckerchief which he pulls out sideways like a moustache and gives a huge smile! I rush around over the bridge and shake his hand - He is "Davey Jones". he is delighted to hear that I am taking photos of Welsh people/speakers/descendants but somewhat puzzled and dismayed that I dont speak Welsh. I ask if I can take a photo of him at the waterwheel and he says Yes - as I go back to the other side of the waterwheel his son gets the 'half an oil barrel' and he places it on its stand - the cans collect the water and as it turns [when its summer] they pour into the oil barrel and the water is collected.

I put a film into the MK2 6x7 - this is definately a 6x7 moment. Moments like this you know it will look good and you dont want the face of the subject to loose (lose) the light/shine/sparkle/expression of anticipation that someone [has] when they are 'freshly' about to be snapped! I wind the film on and on and on! It does not stop at the 1st exposure but goes through to the end. The LCD display next to the wind-on lever says 'End Film' or something and the camera doesnt have a display to say it has a low battery. I have never had a flat battery in this camera and dont realize that is what the problem is. This camera is sturdier than a tank though and I know it isnt broken! [the camera has an LCD display to tell you the number of exposures taken and when the film has ended but it doesnt say when the battery is low or flat and when that happens; putting a fresh film into the camera results in the film not loading but just winding through until its end] The film winds on - I open the back and pull the film out - its a write off - I run across the bridge and passed the man, making my sincere apologies. Tommi and Telly stand on the bridge watching and laughing quietly about my carry-on. (13:50 - time now). I go to the car and get another roll of '120' I run back and try to load it - the same thing happens - the poor man is getting really perplexed at my carry-on. I am back past him again and get 'all' the films in their yellow flueorescent IKEA pouch - I also bring spare batteries with me from the red & white shopping bag. I almost forget the spare batteries today - which were lying on the spare bed with all my other stuff - something said that I should bring them "just in case". I fish a 25 cent coin from my pocket and open the battery compartment on the 6x7 MK2. I change the batteries and load another film it works. (The MK1 does have a "Battery Check" - a red light but sometimes the mirror stays up and this is why Im using the MK2).

The 55mm lens, wide angle, means Im too far from the man at the waterwheel and I have to get closer for the shot I have the feeling for, but if I go down, over 5ft below into the channel I will be too low - and I'll get soaked - there's at least 2 foot of water still in there. At some point I take a shot of Davey with the Digital at '55' max zoom which in retrospect, and without looking at the 6x7 results - it is (being able) to look very good. I take a few 6x7's then decide to put the 6x7 55mm lens on the DL2 which will give me a telephoto effect -(see adapter diagram). I put the 'K' adapter on, then the 55mm and look at my handwritten notes on the A4 sheets Luned has made her lists for me on. Ive emailed Charlotte Bennett at Pentax who has emailed me back instructions on how to 'program' the DL2 to accept a different type of lens and how to use the aperture ring on it. Finally, talking out aloud - so that they know Im on the 'case' I try to take a shot but still the shutter release doesnt work - I switch the tiny button on the front of the camera body, from Autofocus (AF) to (MF) Manual Focus and hey presto! we're away. The wide angle 55mm 6x7 lens which once made everything fit in the viewfinder beautifully now means I have to run backwards to give me a bit of space! It takes a few seconds of dial turning and scrolling to set the desired shutter speed and I shoot off a load. By this time - a good 10 - 15 minutes the man is cold and bored witless. I continue to apologize profusely. The 6x7 lens doesnt give the desired effect - I get, instead some portrait shots - one fairly reasonable.

We get invited inside and I tidy up my mess - film, batteries (old) trodden into the ground, bits of paper, lenses, bodies, the shopping bag all over the place. I feel like a right tit! [Yes! It pays to practice dry runs before you go into the field and do it for real; no-one would believe that I never had the time! "You can make time" they say - "You can f*ck off" I say...I was working on a farm before I flew, more than 12 hours a day and you might have gathered from reading this blog that Ive been writing for at least 4 hours a day - live and learn: 'next'/'this' time it would be better to write less/write direct to a laptop instead of handwriting to a diary] Ironically I feel as though the 1st shot I took with the DL2 is the one I'll use! I should have brought the 105mm lens with me for the 6x7 but I left it back at the garage. That would have been perfect! It is also a 'faster' lens!

I take my shoes off as a sign of respect out of doors and refuse to be told to leave them on. The booklet of photos gets handed around again and 'telly' takes more interest - he sits as I take some shots of a 1910 Eisteddfod chair. Even the 'once fed-up' Father has a quick look and they laugh at some of the shots. I am asked if I'd like 'Mate'. I'm pointed to a seat and Tommi talks in Spanish. I point to my coldsore and say I'd love 'mate' thank you but I dont want to pass this around - since you share the same straw and of course dont worry about wiping it.) instead i get half a glass of Fanta orange. We talk and I get a shot I'm really pleased with of the Dad passing the 'mate' to the Mother. She is great - speaks alot of Welsh and likes the fact Im English and can be bothered to take photos of the Welsh! Apparentley a relative won 4 Bardic Chairs and each child has one in their home - this one is 1910 - fantastic! The other one Ive seen is in the Museum Gales in Gaiman.

It's dark and Tommi is slightly worried - his front headlamps work but the only light at the back is the number plate light - no tail lights! We say thanks and I think arrange to come back again! We head down the back roads and into town. Tommi drops me off and I go to buy bread and salami, mayonnaise etc. I write diary and go to bed. I have a dream one of these nights, when I do sleep, that Charlie is no good - she is with a group of friends and he is slagging me off - It is cold at night - I have earplugs in for the dogs barking - Mr. Fordhams hat on, and it is chilly. I wont turn the gas on [gas heater] as it dries the air out and Ive had some bad ones (experiences) on Anglesey with gas! (Oh! Ive just remembered - at Luneds on Tuesday - Fabio was looking for his mobile phone and Luned asked me if I had taken it!?! I made a shocked face and she added: "By mistake of course!" Unbelievable; maybe she thinks she has a duty to be like someone from home [Wales] just to keep the flag flying!?) Fabio, of course, found it later!

Tommi told me that when he came back to Gaiman from Buenos Aires, for so many years, that he was walking across the street one day and when he was halfway across the street Luned shouted to him and asked - "Excuse me but who are you? Who are you the son of?" "The son of my mother" he replied and kept on walking! Luned has to know everyone and be the boss of everything. Good old Tommi! [Its actually very good that Luned knows everything - she has been a massive help to me; I think I had a problem because Im very independent and when people point fingers and are altogether quite rude it pisses me off...but Luned doesnt mean any harm - she has a rare character with many qualities and can put you in a rage one second and have you adoring her the next].

40 • Friday 07 July 2006 - BENITO OWEN

2008-02-15T10:56:00.002-02:00

08 July: 10:17am - Its Friday - Ive just got up and Im still writing about Tuesday - Im feeling distanced from what Im suppossed to be doing, tired, coldsore on bottom lip, feeling really horny and worried about Charlie back at home who is ignoring me. - I joke with Fabio at the kitchen table - he thinks Im mad. Ive noticed that certain people bring out different characters in me and we have stupid banter about anything that doesnt make sense!

I talk about the trike [I built my own motor engined 3 wheeler trike in 2002] and mention it's called 'bonzo' - "what to be on fire he asks?" Taty asked this too; it seems to have a different meaning here - I dont understand so Fabio looks it up in the dictionary. In the English dictionary No - but in the Spanish one it says a 'bonzo' is a spiritual person! I cant believe the coincidence! I mean I called the trike after the "Bonzo Dog Doo Dah Band" but I went to a spiritualist church for a year with Marie and its something I believe in. Also another disctionary says it is a Buddhist monk or priest. I was told I had a Buddhist monk as a 'guide' in spiritualist church - we all have 3 apparently. Im gob-smacked. [There is also a link to being on "fire"; buddhists are linked to fire because they set themselves alight {during Vietnam} as a form of protest. I am linked with fire for various reasons too. Ive had nightmares for some time about being set-on fire, other people 'on fire', I get sun-burnt really bad sometimes and when I was about 4 years old; alone with a 'girlfriend' in her Mums house while we were playing, 'Rachel Orange' said "wait there" and came back with a gallon container of petrol which she poured all over me whilst I was seated on the best sofa in the living room. Why I dont know but I remember it stung like hell. Good job she didnt have a nicotine habit at that age!]

Fabio gives me a lift in the white Renault 9 to Camwy school. He walks me near the school gates and sees his nieces who he talks to for a bit - I think we are talking about the effects of mariuhuana and he says he only tried it once in Cardiff just to keep someone happy who was pushing him to smoke it. I lift up my t-shirt and show him the 'coat of arms' I have tattooed onto my chest and explain that 2001 wasnt a great year from me and how I was going slightly mad smoking and drinking! [Thats why I quit both] We say goodbye and Fabio, I think goes to see Hector MacDonald. No that's not true - Fabio walks me to the door of the classroo where Juan Davies (Rebecca's husband) is teaching Welsh. He learnt Welsh as a second language - later in life and is part Indian and part Argentine (and a bit Welsh obviously?!) and now teaches Welsh to older people - an amazing sounding man [Although 'gossip' says in town that he used to beat his first wife for talking to other men; maybe she was sleeping with other men who knows?] Fabio and I joke around outside and finally it is time to go in - the class has already started and Fabio asks if I need him to take me in - No - of course not!

There are 5 'mature' women in the class and Juan. He introduces me to his pupils and I take 2 photos only, then I sit at the back and try and catch up on this journal. All the women look very Welsh and speak Welsh strongly and 'very' loudly throughout - occassionally breaking into Spanish (or rather "Castellano"). At the end a lady walks around handing out sweets and I get one too. I say 'Diolch yn fawr' - big deal! [Big deal that I make such a small effort in saying something in Welsh!] Juan has been (also known as Sion) writing on a blackboard and I make sure that 1 shot emphasizes what he is writing in Welsh - they apear to be reciting text and discussing it. It's over. My photo taking has slowed up - Im not going to go rushing around, trying to get as many shots as I can - at first I was in a bit of a panic, obvioulsy, trying to get my bearings, discover who the Welsh speakers are and where they work/live. Now I want to think about where I have to go next and what photograph is going to be most relevant and important - I can feel myself getting really worn down. First I want to see if Ive had a reply to my email I sent Charlie. The last time I emailed was the first Wednesday here - then she sent me one on Sunday and I replied on Monday. Now it is Tuesday and I hope to hear her news. I check my email in the Telfonica Cabin - a small shop with 6 telephone cabins you can sit in and one PC.

No email from Charlie - I telephone her - Id like to somehow order more memory for my digital camera and ask to write a number down "My Memory" in Guernsey and leave them an answer machine message to email me so I can discuss how to get more memory sent out here. Charlie has to pull over in her car - it must be about 8:30pm - in her time - I get through and then get cut-off after about 3 minutes - I asked the lady for 5 pesos worth. I think I used the internet again and then phone Charlie once more - it is maybe 10:30/10:45 her time - she answers in a fluster and says "What do you want?" as though I am a nuisance - she says she is in bed, at her own house but it is echoey as though she is in a corridor with a high ceiling. I ask her where she is and she says in bed but I can tell by the way she replies that she is lying - her voice goes quieter and slightly higher - Ive been there before [I could write a book about cheating women!] We chat for a bit longer but she isnt telling me much - she's not parting with her feelings. (Thats why she says she has a councillor - so she doesnt have to tell anyone else how she feels.) Im not convinced and I think we get cut off again. [Months later, after Charlie has finished being shagged by the 'train ticket collector' during my first 2 weeks in Patagonia she asks me to come back to Britain, to her, for Xmas 2006. She says that she wants me back, that the bloke was horrible to her, called her names, was abusive, dependent on alcohol, rude about her body and clothes and has brought her self-esteem right down to rock bottom. I was the best boyfriend she had had; that I always complimented her and was a great lover...its wierd: woman! They only realize the grass isnt greener on the other side when they've smashed down the fence, trampled over everything, rolled around until there's nothing left and snuk back to the other side when its dark and no-one can see them. Even now in 2008 Im still getting texts from her saying how she misses my body and wondering how Im doing] I should just hang-up when Ive finished and not tell the woman at the desk how much moneys worth I want. Im in a mood - this girl says she was going all soft over me just after Id left and when I cant manage to email 'cos Im too busy she just gives up! Im thinking about staying here if she's mucking around - documenting the Welsh is much more important than this relationship - or is it? Certainly taking photos is important but this relationship would be too if I felt she was, if not serious about it - at least mature!

Anyway . My writing isnt about this and I have to keep on going. I walk back across the bridge fed-up - I was meant to be going back to Charlie - to go on the bike together [CBR400RR-NC23] to my teaching job in Bath and then on to stay at "Woodhouse Wood" with Simon - it could be good! But I feel there is nothing to go back to now. I stop at the supermarket - I have a 100 pesos note left and additionally about 4-5 pesos in notes and change in my pocket. I by a ready-made large triangle sandwich - white bread, cheese and ham and mayo and a bottle of fizzy water. I want to keep the 100 pesos for Lucio as I owe him for rent - should have paid yesterday! Tomorrow I'll 'change' the rest of my US dollars for Pesos.

I come back and knock on Lucio's door - Ruth answers looking exhausted - she works at the seaweed factory at the river. I hand her the 100 pesos note and she asks if I need anything else? No - I say thanks and leave. I eat my sandwich, squeezing the remaining mayonaisse I have from its sachet on top of the bread. Im not bothered about it being fattening - I have a coldsore coming on my lower lip, I can feel it stinging - Ive never bothered with cream and will let it run its course! After Ive finished the sandwich and have made hot water for 'mate' - I fill the 'mate' up (the name for the cup/container that holds the herb) when Lucio comes in - He says - is this for me? And without me replying - having time to reply he picks it up and has a suck on the "Bombilla" - Mmm - he doesnt say too much - maybe its too hot. (Hector MacDonald later says that you should heat the water until it is just starting to make a noise - like it's going to boil - 2 seconds before and then use the water otherwise it burns the Yerba (pronounced 'Jerba'). [Actually most people have their own way of heating water - the main thing is not to let it boil; most people take the kettle of the heat when it first make a noise; a ticking sound when the water is close to boiling. Each 'tick' of sound means the water is getting hotter and hotter, obviously so its best to use the water after the kettle makes its very first tick. The way you serve it too has different meanings: if the water is too cold it means the person is not welcome in the house - I'll find out what too hot means etc etc...]

Lucio takes me to Benito's who eyes me with deep suspicion. He reminds me of Rutger Hauer - from 'Bladerunner'. He is in his own house and comes across to what appears to be his wifes house [its actually a garage made into a 'Qincho' - a place to eat 'Asados' where there is a large table, a fire place and chairs], girlfriend or ex-wife. We talk - or raher Lucio tries to explain what Im doing but Benito looks unconvinced - he doesnt really understand the concept of what Im trying to do...I leave the kitchen - there is a fireplace on floor level - no raised hearth and a rectangle space with chimney above. There are just branches standing vertically in the corner of the fireplace, burning and that is a fire - I like these peoples style - there is no pretence to have a grate and little brushes/spades/shovels/trowels ornaments knocking around the place. [I miss the point thought because I havent yet learnt what the fire-places are for. They are especially designed for cooking 'Asados', they are level with the floor because you literally stand in the same area as the fire when arranging the meat/taking it away from the flames. Large amounts of wood are placed in a corner of the "hearth" and it wouldnt do to lift the wood in; you kind of drag/throw it in. There wasnt enough fire to have an Asado on this night - I think the flames were there just to keep the room warm but normally the fire isnt lit to provide warmth - it's to cook with]. It is just branches thrown into the corner and lit - what seems strange is that the fire as at floor level - 2 feet out from its corner under the chimney stack and the wood would be burning in room [because there is no 'didvide' to stop burning logs rolling out it is stranege to have an open fire burning on the same level as the floor of the room...however there is no chance of the logs rolling as they are more like long thin branches and they stand, propped up vertically in a corner - these people know exactly what they're doing] I keep on sneaking a look and for all Benito thinks - I could be 'casing' the joint for things to pinch!

I realize that we aernt getting anywhere and need to 'Turbo' the situation (I noticed a key on the keybeoard of the PC in the Internet place yesterday that just said 'Turbo' - I darent press it in case the monitor flew off the desk!) I say Im going to get the booklet - "Just heard the Cuckoo" and my cameras to show him what Im about! As I leave, in the dark, back to the garage (I have only gone next door) I see a small Indian boy cycling on a BMX toward me - up the street. I dont think anything of it and get my things - Im only 2 minutes and when I return - Benito is outside standing in the back of his white pick-up truck at an aluminium milk churn - he is just putting the lid back on and has a plastic funnel made from the top half of a plastic Coke bottle and a measuring cup to ladel the milk out with. He has just poured out a quantity of milk for the little boy to take home and I immediately see it would have made a great shot! (it reminds me slightly of 1999 of Coch Y Mel when I first came to Anglesey and seeing Will Williams milking by hand) Im fed-up there's another lesson for me - always keep your camera on you at all times! I say 'Wow' loudly (and Benito laughs) - the dark night - the aluminium churn - the Indian boy collecting milk for his parents by bicycle from God knows how far away!? Oh well - back inside and Benito looks at some of the photos ["Just heard the Cuckoo"] and immediately warms to the idea - he grimaces when he sees a photo of a Biker in Dorset who has about 9 ear piercings - he shows the one of 'Abba' in Wellington boots in Parc/Anglesey to his wife - she likes it.

We arrange for 1:30pm on Friday. I shake hands and thank him - "muchas gracias" - Hasta Luego [See you later], Ciao - 'my' Castellano is coming on a bit. I show Lucio some shots of the Gaucho fro this morning and he asks me about whether Ive transferred the photos from another camera to this one - I cant think why he asks so can only presume that he is impressed by the quality! [Ive already written this...I guess this illustrates how tired I was then; repeating myself - a sign of anxiety?] We say goodnight. I write a bit more but I am knackered...bed at 11:30 (3:30am - UK time!)

39 • Thursday 06 July 2006 - MEAL TICKET

2008-02-15T10:51:00.002-02:00

11:13 - 06 July 2006

And I forgot to put last night that too that Diana had also said at the table in front of her parents that "maybe Jesus came from North Wales?" And I said "No! - I have heard this one before - it is impossible - he couldn't have because there weren't any virgins! She howls with laughter and so does Taty when Diana translates! (Oh my God what am I doing!) Im in the house of Catholics - blaspheming!) I start to dig myself out of this hole - "we have a problem in Britain where young girls get pregnant so that the Government will give them a house for them and their baby.

At 1am I say I have done enough talking and it is time to go. I should have left earlier! I kiss the Mum first on both cheeks - which i think surprises her - I have a memory that 2 cheeks is more...not...well if you know someone well you kiss twice, if you dont really know them then just once [in France maybe? but this is Argentina!] I think the Mums surprised that it is twice, then Diana, then Tattie - I giggle when I come to kiss her and everyone giggles. There is something there perhaps. They open the door, I pick up my coat and 'shopping bag' - Taty is sitting on the house steps down to the street with her dog. They say if I need anything - then just to call by and knock whenever! They are very kind.

It is quite chilly - I just wear my T-shirt - they tell me to put my coat on - but I say I'll walk fast. I wave, turn around and head back down the high street; to turn left at Bar Avenida and the park, across the bridge: Rio Chubut and back to Lucio's. (By the way. I found out: Diana said that her Dad's nickname is the 'lettuce': Le Chunga? [Lechuga] or something like that. She says it is because he is thin and green and I go along with it but then she mentions his teeth - he is like a rabbit - I dont laugh too much because he is sitting right next to me!)

Wednesday - change remaining dollars for Pesos. Go to Ririds for a second Gazette [there is an article about me arriving in Gaiman to photograph the Welsh and I buy another paper for the story] - Go to Siop Bara for 2 coffees + pastries x 2. Write diary. It is 12. Walk to petrol station. Talk to Pablo - Tommi arrives. Get lift to Telefonica - try to phone Sony in Buenos Aires for microphone - Tommi phones - no luck - I email Sony in Ba.As - Tommi leaves - arrange to meet at Lucio's at 3:30pm - I get back just before this - buy choc and crisps for lunch - no time! Choc and crisps makes me go funny - tired, no food = grumpy. We go out to his Uncles farm via Gwynfe - see his Aunt - then go to see Emus then Bryn Crwyn Chapel, then place/area Ririd was born, then go to water pump man then home. Buy bread/ salami. Write diary - bed.
Professor of Gazette gives me a copy when Im in Telefonica with Tommi.

Tuesday - There isnt any milk - so I cant finish my cornflakes which I bought with good intention. There is no meat or bread either so I have to get out of the garage fast.•

Thursday - Im at Hector Ariel MacDonalds studio - he has a blind boy recording in the studio. Hector says that he thinks that "I am mad" and that he is mad and that he likes me because I am mad too and (he likes my job - it is a mad job) "mad people will save the world". I have to write this down now as I might forget - there is so much to write down! (I have a mad job taking photographs!) It is relaxing to be in a studio like Donal's [Donal Wheelan of Mastering World] - this guy is chilled out and we drink 'mate' - his grandmothers blend.

Tuesday: I found out from Tommi that the name on the pretend Gaucho's belt is of a card game that people play - it is a national game. "Bar Valle quattro (or 4)" The man is apparentley a DJ from a local radio station that plays Argentine folk/country music.

Tuesday night: When Lucio takes me to see Benito - next door - we come back and I show Lucio some pics on the digital Pentax LCD screen - he asks if I have transferred the pics from another camera to this one?! I say No and dont quite know what he means - he looks surprised and it makes me think that perhaps he was surprised by the quality of [the] photo (if you can tell from the LCD screen?!) maybe he thought another/ better camera had taken the photos and I was playing the photos back on the *ist?! [ actually think now that he was surprised that I had taken those photos - that he didnt think I was capable of taking photographs before]

• I walk fast as I want to catch Siop Bara before it closes - I would like to buy some chocolates for Margarita and Ruben for last night. I buy Gazette from orange kiosk on left when walking toward the bridge - Ive been asking the bloke for days if he has it in and finally he waves me from the other side of the road to signal he's got it. Rather than hand it to me he flicks quickly through the pages, talking in Spanish, going backwards and forwards looking for somehting. Then he finds it and points. "Its me!" I say "Agh - Stupido!" And he says "Si" (Well what else did I expect him to say?!) I walk really fast as I dont want to to be walking past Rubens window, of his shop, and not call in and because he has really been kind I want I want to say thank you. I havent seen any flower shops and dont think it would be appropriate so decide on the chocs as the family all seemed to like them. If I can just get to "Siop Bara" before it closes then it will be a job well done! I get there, chuffed they are stil open and order a bag of 10 star shaped chocolates - after much debating about how I want to have the chocolates bagged and I explain they are for Senor and Senora - I retend to be handing out presents and bowing. The woman puts two lots on 2 trays and wraps them with giftwrap and sellotape. I pay - 12 pesos and leave. I walk down the street trying to remember which shop Maragrita works in - Im not sure really - several look the same...I look in through the door of Lynnyrd Skynrryd and realize it is his shop...I learn from Tommi that he is known as 'El Cato' [El Gato] The Cat.

The shop is closed - it is siesta time now, as I was walking toward Maragrita's shop - before i got to it I think I pass a man just wearing black from head to foot standng in the doorway of Bar Espanol. I look over my shoulder as I mean to cross the road to get a good look and turn back. He catches me looking and says "Hola". I ask to take his photo and he says "Si!" I take quite a few - with digital and with the 6x7. I ask for his name and give him a ntoebook - he asks for my name - like he is going to do an autograph. I have the Gazette with me and show him the article - he cant properly grasp my name so he puts to a "photographer friend". I find out on Thursday that he is a DJ from a local radio station in Trelew - the belt he is wearing: "bar Vale 4' is to do with a popular nationally played card game. Apparently some belts have coins in them [for luck]. H eplays national folk type music. I thank him and then go to Margarita's and as I leave he gives me a magazine from his bag which is very random - I think it is about politics and seems to be incredibly boring!

Margarita's shop is closed so I go into Rubens. He is in his 'hatch' being stood over by "Beattie" who gives me a cheery smiley greeting. He ignore me - he is busy - he has been like this with me before. I interrupt/ normally I'd wait - I hand him the bag - he takes it and puts it down on the edge of the table - I thank him and say 'Ciao!' Beattie gives a smile and Im off.

It is 12:20pm - I walk to Luneds and just as I get there I see a white Renault Clio and a hand pass a tray of, presumably food, through the window. Tegai takes it and goes inside - the car turns around and goes. I go up to the door and knock and say "Olaaagh". There is a delay - I guess Tegai is sorting it out - they have ordered food from the Rotiseria across the bridge. I am told to sit and wait - finally Luned comes through - looking in a bit of a 'pelarfa'. She dissapears again - (the meatballs have been put into a bowl with rice) collects it and walks through to Tegais bit where there is a microwave - she tips the bowl so I can its contents and says "this will be 20 pesos".

I find it a horrible situation, sad and rude. I fish the money out and hand her 2 x 10 pesos notes and say "Muchas Gracias Luned" - she says - "Well - Thank you". Clearly she thinks that because I have an Arts Council Grant that some of it is hers for the taking - I am quite literally a meal ticket. I am told to go through and sit down. Luned serves the meatballs up - there is the finely chopped cabbage salad that Tegai makes. When it comes to eating it, and it's 'micro-chopped' already - she pulls her knife across it whilst holding it with her fork to yet cut it up into more thin tiny bits. Slight obsessive behaviour that I know about myself...She is a Gemini too but 43 years older. There is water on the table, in an old whisky bottle - this is a nice touch - it is kept in the fridge so the glass is frosted. It is an old Johnnie Walker label bottle. After the meatballs - there are 3 left (and I am allowed to have them) Luned takes me to the school where she is meant to hand out prizes for the drawing competition I witnessed when I first arrived on the Saturday.

She is late and misses the opportunity so has to walk in on the classes as they are in progress to hand out prizes. We go into the Head's office and a boy is being 'ticked' off for bullying! I take a photo - on his way out Luned grabs his hand and gives him a kind word - holds his hand and gives him some encouragement. Luned almost has tears in her eyes - I ask what the problem was as we walk out - she says he has no parents and the grandmother doesnt have the time to look after him properly. We go prize-giving and then back outside. I take a photo x 2 of Luned as she talks on the steps.

We go back in the Renault 4 for pudding - it is Apple Crumble. Luned jokes that I wont have to pay for that! Apparentley her husband did all the cooking always so it seems that Fabio, Luned and Tegai are not that used to doing it. Did I mention that Mari said in El Dragon that there was a rumour that Tegai used to go out with Luneds husband before her or that there was a "Menage a trois' in the house? 07 July 0:14am - still behind, time to go to bed.

38 • Wednesday 05 July - GWYNFE GRIFFITHS & FIRST SIGHT OF THE 'OSA'

2008-02-15T10:36:00.004-02:00

Its 05 July and 11:01am. Im in Siop Bara for breakfast - cakes and coffee - I cant go wrong!

Back to Gwynfe - he and Tommi go into the tractor shed - where there are 2 Fiat tractors - Gwynfe has blood on his face - he has had an accident this morning. The pin that connects the trailer to the back of the tractor has jumped out and the trailer came forward I think? There isnt much blood but the poor man is here by himself and he's 81! They talk and I get excited - this is the kind of thing I have always wanted to photograph - A Welsh speaking farmer in Patagonia. Towns - apart from 'Alturo' are always too clean and tidy and farms show so much character! I see the sheep and Gwynfe and I walk towards them, they bleet and he bleets back; maybe about ten times. He is talking to them. We climb over the fence and walk towards a huge tree - it is a fir or yew. I should know better. Gwynfe sits down all the while talking to Tommi who has caught up. I am really sorry that I have no Welsh to talk to this man in! I et a great shot - close up of Gwynfe - face on i the middle of the screen with him turned to talk to Tommi.

Im impressed by how clear and sharp the photo appears to be on the LCD screen. Also it is so bright and the colours so clear. Maybe there is no pollution/ haze - nothing to affect the air here? I spy an old cart with alf-alfa on and we talk about it. It has a Rams skull on the front. Tommi says a tree fell onto it, across it, some years before and broke it completely in two. Since then it was completely re-built and the only thing that is original is the wheels. We climb back over the fence and they immediately go indoors. I think Gwynfe wants to make a panad - the door is open but I see an old table with wire stool and tiny kettle and decide its a good idea to record all of these artefacts as well. This is Welsh Patagonia and it wont exist forever! I think they are puzzled why Im taking so many photos but I continue. Then we go around the side of the house - the northside or northwest if Im looking at the sun properly...there are sheepskins hanging up to dry for leather. Tommi says there isnt the market anymore for leather - everything is synthetic. Gwynfe takes a section of fence down that doubles as a gate and we go towards the trailer that caused the accident. It is loaded with small bails of Alf-Alfa - it is as dry and brittle as tinder but very green. Tommi and Gwynfe sit down on a large stack of straw and talk - I take 2 shots and then see the view - it is breathtaking - I run across the field - Im not built for running - it's like a Shire horse galloping or whatever animal you want to call me! I take a shot across some fields of Poplars the the Steppe - Bryn Crwyn. There is a thin irrigation channel taking water to different parts of the farm - which must be crucial if you want to grow anything! It is dusty and dry now and it is the middle of winter - Lord knows what it must be like in summer. Judging by how locals are walking wrapped up in scarves, hats and big-coats - and I am in a t-shirt it must be really baking hot! in the summer! Everyone seems to think it is "frio" right now!

I get back and kneel down in front of Gwynfe to take another close-up but I already have a good enough one so sit back and try to understand. Tommy says that all the old Welsh men used to say that Gwynfe was named after a place in Wales - a town or village - maybe it has dissapeared now? I apologize and say that I dont know but I'll find out about this place and email Tommi about it!We walk back - I help lift the fence back in plcae and we go inside. Tommi explains that Gwynfe was born in the room we go into that has the tyre in the corner. It is very dark and the first shot? one of them anyway is of Gwynfe rolling up the makeshift curtain - he says it is off a machine that carries the straw or corn up, once the straw is cut off the ground and up a chute and into a trailer - it is like a material conveyer belt. have a feeling this is going to be a good shot. Luckily Gwynfe is busy talking to Tommi as I check each shot and adjust the 'exposure compensation' accordingly. I minus it right back as the window is over exposing everything. I get the shot I want - with the right exposure but the camera is unsure where to focus - Gwynfe is moving all the time and Im not going to ask Tommi to tell him to hold a pose. Gwynfe turns his head slightly and it is sharp - I am happy but I prefer the blurred one. We leave the room but I run outside to get the 6x7 and come back in - I ask if we can go back into the old bedroom. The 6x7 is rated at 6400ASA and I get it to 1/15 second to get the exposure I need.

I press myself against the door frame and the camera as hard as I can against my face so to steady everything - it should work. The MK2 mirror doesnt 'clunk' as much as the MK1 - I take 2 or 3 shots to finish the film. We go through into the kitchen and Gwynfe sits next to the fire. Tommi asks what the kettle is known as in English - kettle I say. Tommi isnt sure - he's never heard of this before. He asks what a tea pot is and i see one on the floor and point, Gwynfe shows me a grill that he puts over the fireplace to cook meat on straight. There is wood on the floor, branches scattered around that are used for the fire. It must be an old Welsh fireplace. Earlier Tommi explained, via Gwynfe that everything was once brought over from Wales - when we were standng next to the Alf-alfa wagon in the field with the sheep. This even included drums or tanks of petrol - imported all the way from Wales.

I take more shots of Gwynfe next to the fire - we go outside and Gwynfe feeds his chickens and dogs. The chickens know and come to the door - he keeps his feed inside the house - one room - it must have been the living room, is full of potato sacks - about waist high. The chickens are almost bright orange - it is as though they are plugged into electric. It isnt the cameras contrast - it is set halfway. I follow him to his dogs and feed them. One puppy is free - the other chained. The mum is chained too. Tommi is going to check on his bees and I catch him up - he explains about the hives in winter. On one tree at the far end of a wood there is a pipe going in, quite high up. Tommi explains that there is a hive in the tree [actually inside the tree] and when it gets to October - the spring- that he will put a pipe into it and the bees will come out and go into the hive he has built - then he will take the hive to someplace else. It is very clever. he also has set-up plastic drinks bottles - upside down in another bottle full of stones - a drinking place for bees. the bees have to stay at a constant temperature during the winter - to stay warm and if they have to travel tto far to find water they will get cold and die. So every hive - in a tree or box has its own water drinking place so they dont have to go too far!We head back to the car - it is time to leave.

Gwynfe leaves in his Ford F-100 and we are are ahead of him - we drive past some horses in a field and I ask to stop. I take some photos - there is a great sky (This is Monday by the way - the 03rd.) Gwynfe catches us up and we wave, he drives past. I get back in and we carry on then Tommy remembers somewhere last year that had Emu's. He said do I remember the photo I took of the badge on the 'zinc' ? This is the same! We go past a field with netting on the side - this is to stop the Emus escaping. Tommi calls it 'Web' - I call it 'Net' - Tommi calls it 'Web' again - OK - we both understand. He has his own English. We drive back with the stones thumping the underside of the car - cant get enough of seeing everything - my head is almost swivelling round.

05 July 22:31 - It's Wednesday evening and Im still trying to catch up o Monday! Ive got to keep going - Im exhausted and have a coldsore coming on my lower lip. Tommi and I go to Rubens Autospares shop and I get dropped off - Tommi comes in for a bit and speaks to Ruben. I am told to sit and Tommi goes to leave - we organize another time but I open the door and go outside - Tommi follows and wonders where I am going - Im trying to get out of view of everyone in the shop - I turn my back to Tommi and get my money out. He realizes what I am doing and says next time but I say No! firmly. I give him 20 pesos again - it is only about £3.50 or less but it is about 4 gallons of petrol here. he initially says No but almost snatches it from my hands after a few seconds. I dont know the daily wage but reckon its a failry good earner for not even an afternoons work for him. I say goodbye and go back in the shop. I sit down and wait - no one tells me what to do or what's going on - it must be 6:30pm. Ruben is quiet and doesn't say alot - I gaze around - the boy/ lad I very first asked where Camwy School was when I had got off the bus from Trelew that Saturday, just over a week ago - (I went into the autospares shop to ask for directions - I got off the bus early in Gaiman in case it didnt stop again and carried on!) He speaks a bit of English. I stare at the map on the wall - high up of Argentina and look to see where we are in relation to Ushuaia. I'd really like to go there still! I must take some photos to promote 'Snugpak'. The boy [Bruno] looks at me and the map hoping to be of some help. Eventually he tells me where we are and points with a ruler [I know where we are on the map but he thinks I dont].

I stay there - the girl behind the counter with the cheeky smile who gave me 'mate' originally pushes past me and goes outside - she comes back and a bit later a pretty girl walks in with a dog. (As far as I know I am waiting for Rubens son who is going to show me a map of the area and tell me about the family history). The girl has an AVIS map and says she is partly Welshl lives next door and procedes to open the map. She shows me where her Gran and Grandpa come from - I take a photo and thank her very much! [Tatiana Rogers - my 'now' girlfriend] I call her 'Senora' but she says no! She shows me her finger and says 'Senorita!' She is a Miss! I apologize and says goodbye and thank you very much. She is a bit plump, but has lovely dark hair and a bit of a twinkle, especially when she sais she was single! I stay at the counter - a group of old men sit on 4 white plastic chairs - one stands - I learn he is of Welsh origin. He looks like he could have just stepped in off the streets of Blaenau Ffestiniog. I take a photo - then the cheeky girl [Piti] - I later learn is called "Beattie" takes me outside - I think "Oi,Oi!" She's being a bit forward! She takes me next door, up some steps and through the front door, on the high street, of a very smart house. It has a large hall and I follow her through to a room - (the kitchen) which has a PC desk immediately behind the door. The girl with the map is sitting in front of it and learn she is called "Tattie", short for Tatiana. She is the daughter of Ruben of the autospares shop.

It appears that "Tattie" is the 'son' who is suppossed to be telling me about the family history. But she doesnt speak alot of English. She asks if I'd like some 'Mate', I say Yes and she produces a plate of sandwiches - which is I suspect she has made especially as they appear very quickly. They knew I was going to be invited around I realize but didnt say anything - I am very happy to be here but feel it is a bit of a mystery! i realize that I have to be at Luned Gonzalez at 6:30pm but this is a bit of fun and they are very welcoming - I dotn mention that I have to go. we sit at the computer and Tattie shows me her photos on the PC. We drink 'Mate' and 'Beattie' [Piti] tops it up. I eat sandwiches and we talk about her family history. Im shown a framed photo of Captain Rogers - Rubens grandfather - who sailed over here from Wales originally. Apparently he fought Pirates for the Queen and served in Sebastapol, Crimea etc. I have to go back and ask them sensible questions and get all the details! Tattie and I are talking and Beattie doesnt say much, she just giggles and adds remarks in Spanish. I hold the plate of sandwiches as we watch the computer and keep telling her to help me out! I cant eat them all! I am telling them about my day and show them some shots on the digital Pentax - I mention the word I learnt that day: for 'leaves' - 'Paca' or something - Tattie immediately says "what?" and explains that the word has a double meaning. It also means sex and holds up 1 finger. Sex with 1 person. At that - No! I am wrong - I am confused writing this! i am showing them my photos on my website on the internet and get to the one of Rachel Whitehead and the strawbaler. I explain what it is made from and draw a picture of straw as it grows and then what it is made into - a bale like Alf-Alfa. I draw a stalk of wheat, with the tufts at the top of it and she then says this plant has a double meaning - it means sex [masturbation]. I ask her "What, me have sex with this woman?" And she says No! by yourself, to 'masturbate'. She says it is OK! It is natural. I 'fan' myself and say - "Wow! It's getting hot in here!" Tattie doesnt blush and is very matter of fact about it!

She says her sister is going to arrive very soon, called Diana and she and she speaks good English. 'Beattie' goes back to the shop and Diana comes in. She is full of life and very chatty. She says she is going to kidnap me and would I like to stay for supper? I say Yes but can I phone Luned? Yes but do I know the number? Yes I say - "James Bond 007!" (491007) she laughs. Thats what they say too. I phone and Luned says she has found 2 women who are willing to help me go to places! She was going to invite me round for food but she doesnt have any - I offer to bring some round for her - but she says No - she'll provide it...She has already "ordered" it. But I will have to pay! Dont worry - it wont be anymore than 25 pesos! I tell Diana - she is slightly surprised. She says I'll get food here alright but I wont have to pay anything!

We get back to talking and Tattie cooks - she has just gone out and come back with huge beef steaks. She squeezes them all into a baking dish and pours about half a pint of salt onto them - at least! I say 'salt!' in horror? Yes she says. I think it pisses her off as she is cooking and I realize I might be very rude. Diana bounces around - she is born in February - I say 'Aquarius?' (same as Charlie) - my best match for a mate/ lover. Tattie is Leo - same as Marie and Georgina were - probably my worst match! [In retrospect ALL girls from the UK were my worst match simply because the ones I went out with were all 'slappers!'] Diana says "now - do you start with beer and finish with wine or start with wine and finish with beer?" She says you can have a Cerveza now if you like, we have Quilmes or...she is really enjoying playing the hostess and I feel sad I have to tell them I dont drink. Tattie comes round the corner from the oven and looks shocked - I tell them I am unable to drink any longer - I mention my Mothers problem with alcohol and how I liked to drink and drink and smoke too. I have a Sprite instead. I feel it has put a bit of a dampener on things.

The Dad comes in and then the Mum. Ruben asks me via Diana what I like best. Horse racing, football or Motor Racing. I say Motor racing. He asks favourite car and I say definately not Ferrari; everyone likes them and they break down alot! he asks what the 'British Team and I say Williams or Jordan I think. It is 9 or 9:30pm. Tattie serves the food up. The Mum is Margarita, very nice but she doesnt have a word of English. Ruben doesnt either. Diana talks non-stop - asking me questions about my life and Britain/England/Wales and how she wants to go to Warwick to visit a friend. I feel that I am monopolising the conversation too much about myself and try to swing to the daughters and the parents. Actually the first question after the sport one from Ruben - when we are at the table is how is my relationship with my family? That is how Diana puts it I am going to talk about my parents but Diana interjects and asks if I have any brothers or sisters? I say a sister and that she is to be married soon! Diana asks if I am jealous she is going to be married? She asks if I get on well with her. Questions, questions. I say that she was a bit 'funny' (my sister is) - London makes you like this and I said something rude (about her boyfriend - I think I said that?) and that we are kind of alright , obviously the subject changes again. I am tired, so tired and I really cant be doing with so much excitement but I kind of get carried along with it. I notice that Ruben is smiling and trying to catch his wife's eye, I feel myself getting really bored of myself. I should be solely concerned with talking about the Welsh here and their heritage - Rubens heritage!

Eventually after a really fantastic meal - beef with tasty juicy fat, roast potatoes and rice with peas, carrots etc we have a choice of chocolate to eat. Diana says that it was up to her to cook pudding but she didnt have time as she was talking to me so much. We somehow get onto the subject of me working as a security guard at the National Eisteddfod in 1999 and that the first bit of Welsh I learnt was "Cai de gag Mochin Bidda" - it means "shut your mouth filthy pig" - Oh God! I think Ive overstepped the mark now - Im in Patagonia with an amazing opportunity to photograph and meet fantastic people and I go and say something like that. [In retrospect, whilst copying this out over a year and a half later everything that I have written and all my actions seem entirely relevant...Im not a Hollywood actor; Im human and this is real life - I realize now after re-rreading what I wrote then that I was putting myself under enormous stress by trying to take the best photos I could for the exhibition in Oriel Ynys Mon. Had I known then how the Arts Council of Wales would fund me so meanly perhaps I wouldnt have worked so hard. 'Perhaps' but probably not because I am back here again with NO funding and am still sticking my neck out!] I explain that if you're a security guard stuck in a small room with lots of other men and you're English it helps in conversation when everyone is having a go at one another. Ruben stands up quickly and leaves the room - I think he is fed-up of listening to my drivel - Im not surprised, so am I! I just need to sleep and shit is pouring from my mouth!

I offer to wash-up. Im surprised that the Mother hasnt left too! Ruben comes back in and says he is going to bed - I stand up and shake his hand - "muchas gracias" I say. God Im a plonker! Diana asks me if Id like a drink - coffee, tea, 'mate'. I ask for 'mate' if OK. Yes - it seems like a good decision. The Mum is in charge of the kettle - it comes to the table. The 'mate' gets passed around - Taty smokes - and shows an album of photos. They are all of her friends and parties - they are all very similar. There is one of the girls with a blown up condom and Diana covers it with her hands laughing - and says = "We are your daughters Mother - your naughty daughters" in a squeaky voice - the Mother smiles tiredly. I get shown a photo of the Mums wedding and I look at the wrong person - [I though the Mum was a bridesmaid in the photo] - I dont know if Im coming or going - Im asked how old I think she is. Im looking at Rubens Mum - I say 21 - (she must be in her forties!) No - lower - I go down to 17 when I am finally stopped. I cant believe it! [The photo is off Ruben and Margarita standing behind Oscar Thomas and his wife. Ruben was adopted by other members of his family after his Mother left him with an aunt and Grandmother and went off with another man. Oscar Thomas gave Ruben a job and is known as 'Abuelo' (Grandpa) by Rubens children. I was looking at the photo of Oscars wife - not of the young girl standing behind = Margarita] Then I look up and there is a couple - Ruben and the Mum side by side standing behind the parents. The Mum [Margarita] looks about 13. She is gorgeous, with long black hair! I ask where the hair went - "Mum cut it all off when we were born" Diana squeaks again - "We were very naughty children" - the Mum smiles again, looking ready to drop.
(Its 0:10 on 06 July - its time I went to bed!)

37 • Tuesday 04 July 2006 - "THIS PLACE KNACKERS YOU!"

2008-02-15T10:18:00.004-02:00

Now its 04 July 2006, 10:41 and Im too far behind - I can just about remember!

Eventually the bride turns up after the wicker basket boy has got bored and come outside to see where the bride has got to. He jumps on one mans back and [the man]spins him round and then jumps up to cling on to one of the window ledges and pears in through the window - he falls off, backwards but luckily isnt hurt and rushes back inside. Eventually the bride arrives after 9-9:30pm - keeping everyone waiting on their toes.

{Chimango - Falcon}

A video man, and a boy helping him, have a large spotlight on the camera and it shines brightly on the bride shoes - she has to squint - the first shot I take is for night-time portraits - it is a delayed shutter. First it flashes to get the foreground OK then it stays open longer, with no flash to get the background in. I mess up the shot of the bride getting out of the car, never mind I should have plenty more opportunities. Im wearing what I did for the mini-Eisteddfod, 'tan' trousers with side pockets and blue Dickies shirt. I wear the Snugpak green Sleeka jacket over the top. The best man leads the bride into the church and just before they pass through the swinging side door - just like the Welsh churches back at home (you go through the main door and can turn either left or right through one of two doors) he gives the bride some encouraging words and lifts her chin up with 2 fingers to show her she has to remember to keep her head up. Im the only one to see this as the other photographer and video crew have already gone in.

An elderly man has the door held open as they pass through and he gestures for me to come in. There are 2 pews at the back on the far left side that are empty and I sling the shopping bag down the foot well of the second last one and remain standing - trying to get a good shot as the bride walks down the aisle. I sit down and watch. Soon - other family and relatives arrive, late, through the door I came in and I am surrounded by them. I realize I have to move to get a better look so I ask to be excused and pass a man who looks slightly fed-up - he has to stand fully up to let me out and any movement is noticed as the service goes quiet. I push through the left swinging door and then through the right one and then [[back in] through the right one and find myself in an aisle that is full of crying babies and buggies. I stand just in front of where the door swings open and watch, one of the men from out the front is just wearing a cardigan. I think he was helping the cars park - rushes to the front - oblivious to making himself seen and takes a load of photos - holding his digital camera up high so the LCD screen shines brightly in the darkness. I sneak down to the front after a man in a suit and then walk back up to the main doors with back bent right down so I dont disrupt peoples vision - I am also feeling very humble that I have the opportunity to attend this.

I come back down to the front again when the rings are exchanged - there is much laughter as I think the rings are muddles up - but it seems traditional/cliched almost to have a laugh and make a joke - to make it more memorable and less solmen. The groom kisses the bride quickly on the lips, then again, then a choir in the front of the right hand aisle pops up without warning and starts to sing - at this point Im sitting on the floor at the front of the aisle with my right leg stretched out so I can get into my side trouser pocket to get my other 1GB memory card for the digital Pentax. Ive run out of memory! Men and women step out of the aisle to make room and people from further back to the chaple coem down and I find myself tangled up in people standing above me. I get up and 'stalk' back to my place at the back.

Ive never heard so much noise in a wedding ever and kids rush in and out non-stop - crying, falling off their seats, banging their heads, kicking the wood panelling outside in the porch. Its like being in an adventure theme park.

The bride and groom leave and Im back on the left side to get a shot of them walking back up - I pleased - its a good one. The bride and groom receive all the congregation outside and I stand amongst the 'miele' trying to get a clear shot of the bride standing out in her white dress. It just about works - some people stand directly in my way oblivious to the camera and eventually get pulled back by others - I just stand like a statue, with the camera pressed to my eye waiting for 'that' moment. People pass and curse the amount of cameras and at last the people part for an instant for me to get a clear shot - nothing special but I wanted to show how many people were around and the white dress to shine through - serenity through the madness! They get into the same car she arrived in and they're off.

Mari has been sitting in the audience and she asks me if I want to go to a Restaurant for supper - even if I had said No! she says he would still go by herself! She hasnt eaten all day! We get a lift in a car of a woman who lived near Swansea, I think, for about ten years so she speaks Spanish, Welsh and English. Mari and her talk in Welsh and I bask in the exhausted knowledge that I have got the shots I wanted. We get dropped off and walk across the street to Quilmes [La Vieja Quadra] - the restaurant I first went in the Sunday lunch before. Mari has the peppered steak and diminutive 'Mash' that I had the last time and I order a nouveau cuisine lemony chicken and small sand castle of rice. It tastes great - I just wish they did adult sized portions! The conversation is about people here and at home. We also share a starter of tiny square pizzas, peanuts and crisps, soggy red cabbage in olive oil, little meatballs - I joke that they're not Kwiksave value meatballs - we had a joke about 'Kwiks' no-frills food - Mari's mum always bought 'no-frills' beans but the kids drew a line at crisps - they had to be Golden Wonder! Cars roar past the windows tooting like mad and you can see flashing lights and men with small party plastic hats on like ones you can buy in London as a tourist. Mari asks some people she knows at another table - "The Ty Cymraeg Stewed Tea Brigade" what the fuss is about? They are celebrating the sedding.

We leave and Mari asks if I want to go up to 'El Dragon' again - (I got back at 2am last night). I know she wants the company to go for a beer and get out [of the house] - I know she wouldnt go if she was on her own, so I go with her so not to be mean. We shared the dinner bill - it was 55 pesos - she had a bottle of Quilmes - I had a 'gassy' 'Aqua'. She pays 30 - I pay 25 then try to give to give her 2 pesos to even it off - she leaves it on the plate as a tip. "Santiago" the Ty Cymraeg singer is serving us - Andres Evans is away for the weekend. We go to El Dragon - mari has 2 bottles of Heineken and I have two half pints of Coke - I am totally de-hydrated and get back at 3am. This is stupidity! I desperately need sleep - I am knackered and have to keep up to date with the journal - keeping a list of expenditure is ridiculous.

[Before I came out to Patagonia I visited an old college tutor friend at Colchester Institute, David Jury, who has his own small book publishing business - we had discussed making a book together of my photographs and he urged me to keep a diary and a list of what I spent. He had made a book with Humphrey Spender; a photographer who took photos for the British Government in the "Mass Observation" movement of the 1930s. The book I saw was about a journey Humphrey had made to North Africa and the book had been beautifully printed using 'letter press' and David, when designing it, had included a margin {an area on the page} for his expenses during the trip; part of the overall design and 'feel' of the book. David expected me to stay a month and return to the UK where upon we would make the book together. Ultimately I ended up deciding not to come back, to stay a year and take more photos. Also 2 tutors from the same college and a technician warned me against doing a book with David or rather they said DO the book BUT be careful: he's a greedy man and would be doing it for the money - there was some sort of issue about work students had done for a large company; the students were supposed to have made money from it but David had managed to extract a large amount for himself. I then decided that I didnt want to go ahead with him, I waited and subsequently found another publisher].

I just dont have time! All that is on my mind is that I have to record as many Welsh people on farms, in the countryside as possible. When they go it will be the end of a era! I almost stumble back home feeling light headed and drunk - I am so de-hydrated its untrue and is probably why Im so tired. On Sunday I decide to just catch up on my journal - Fabio and Lucio come round to try the Clio of Luned - and Lucio meekly turns the key for a second - no it wont start! I say just turn the key for longer - he turns it and after 4 seconds it fires into life - filling the garage with smoke and fumes. Fabio smiles at me and says "So do you charge us for your "knowledge?" We talk about the football and Fabio says he is going to the museum where he helps out Tegai. I ask to go with him. We get dropped off at Luneds - and into the 'first' white Renault that used to be in Lucio's garage [Luneds Clio is white also]. We drive to the museum and there are 3 boys from Wales who have been touring Argentina. We chat and I take their photos. Tegai leaves in a bit and I ask her if there is an entrance fee ' she says 1 pesos. I only have 95 cents but thats OK - I get an entry ticket to say Ive been there - great! (I like all the tickets - it will look good for the book!) Fabio helps me take a photo of an old map of Gaiman - as the reason I have gone there is I was asking him about buying a road map of the area. He says it is not possible.

[The following writing is in my diary but crossed out: Sunday Museum - food at supermarket with Fabio - back home - internet - buy drink for locals in Armonia Bar - bed • Monday Walk up to petrol station - take photo of tractor, talk to Pablo, Tommi arrives, talk to Ruben, walk back - just eat Banana - Tommi picks me up - go to see Gwynfe, drops me off at Rubens, eventually go next door - there from 8pm to 1am. Have great beef supper - Bed • Tuesday Up - 'Mate', no breakfast, write diary, walk fast, buy 'Gazette', buy chocolates for Ruben and his wife - drop them off - photograph "Gaucho" outside Bar Espanol - (other way around) walk to Luneds. pay for lunch! Go to school with her - she hands out prizes for drawing competition. Back for Apple Crumble - get a lift to Camwy School - Juan teaches Welsh to women. Go to use internet, phone Charlie, go to supermarket, walk back - eat sandwich. Pay Lucio 100 pesos. He takes me to Benito round corner. I write no more - do a bit more - go to bed 11:30? knackered. Today = 4 July 06 = 1.50 for paper • 12 [pesos] for chocs for Ruben/ and wife(Margarita) • 20 for Luned for lunch • Yesterday Expenses •]

Fabio says that Patagonia has only become touristy recently so there hasnt been any demand for maps. "How do people know which roads to travel on then?" I ask. Fabio doesnt answer but says instaed that he thinks the ACA - Automotive Club in Trelew must have a map of the roads. There is a great long map of the Chubut valley on the wall of one of the rooms - the furthest room in the museum. It s from 1967 - a map made for the Electric and Water Company. [Edi Dorian Jones of Welsh descent; a photographer who made a book on Welsh Chapels in the valley used to work for this company...he retired early and started teaching photography...he has written me a brilliant reference {see my website www.edgold.co.uk for it} He told me to do whatever I want to in life and commit myself solely to it i.e. photography. He regrets working for the Electric & Water Company and wishes he had pursued photography for all those years instead].

There are rectangles on the map, at a 90 degree angle that are numbered and signify properties on another map that actually gives the names of the people who owned the land back in 1888. I get very excited and try to work out the farms I have visited and then see if the names from 1888 are the same as now: like Ruben Rogers grandmothers land '256B' (he tells me - which isnt actually shown unfortunately) and "Salem" - Mary Day - which shows in box "204B" that a Juan Enrique Jones owned. I try several ideas to photo the map on the wall - close-up but it doesnt work - Fabio kindly holds an inspection lamp, that is on a long lead, up to the map and I use this light to try and get some detail - if I use a flash it will bounce off the perspex which protects the paper and you wont see anything at all. The museum is brilliant - it is laid out well and has alot of good pieces - including some original works by Kyffin Williams. I take the photos and it is time to leave. I go out the back to use a very ancient "Ty Bach" [toilet] and see a sign that says "Museo Gales". I ask why it isnt round the front to Fabio? - He says that Tegai and him didnt like it - they didnt want the museum to be a 'Welsh' museum - just a museum - it doesnt have to be labelled solely 'Welsh'. Maybe its to do with local feeling and Argentine people will feel like they've been excluded from it?

Earlier Fabio was having to sweep at a dubious puddle outside the front door to the museum. He says "Just lately people have been using the museum as a toilet". I think "My God - even in this small town people are doing things like this!" Fabio sweeps at the puddle and by the time we come out it has dried away. Fabio insists on giving me a lift - he says he feels bad he hasnt helped me enough with driving me around but his 'tinitis' is terrible and talking to lots of people depresses him! We drive around town a little. I say I am really hungry and Fabio is trying to help me find to find a place that sells food. I ask if anyone sells "fish and chips" [that's a joke to people who are a bit slow] - I am joking with him - Yes - somewhere sells "papas fritas" - chips. "Daddy Chips" I say - joking - no Papa is potato. Potato chips...Its Sunday and everywhere is closed - we eventually head back to Lucios garage and there is a supermarket open - one I havent tried yet! We go in and an elderly woman is running it [La Mascota]. I really dont fancy more baguette and Salami but that is practically speaking all that there is. There is a whole shelf of pasta - Ive never seen so many different types but I dont have a 'pan' and dont want to start cooking seriously - I just dont have the time. Im either 'wolfing' down a quick sandwich, sleeping or walking around trying to find suitable subjects. Cooking is an afterthought - photography is Numero Uno thought in my mind. I decide to go for more salami and we have hysterics trying to untangle one sausage from a whole bunch that hang from a hook by string which is un-snappable and after much pulling the lady behind the counter says something with a smile and hands over a pair of scissors. I buy a baguette, more lemon mayonnaise, a salami and some hot dogs. I still have some gherkins left over in a jar in the garage. I thank Fabio - I pay about 10 pesos - maybe 10.65 pesos - the lady doesnt worry about the 65 cents - kindly. I also buy some lovely Yoghurt drink - Vanilla! I walk back - Fabio and I have a last joke - I am saying "Adios Amigos" in a cartoon voice as well as "booper dooper" which is an old saying from the farm - Coch Y Moel. The sons used to say "I dont know" [Dw i ddim yn gwybod] in Welsh so fast that that is what it sounded like - it took a few weeks for them to try and work out what I was trying to say and for me to work out what they were saying.

I walk back - eat - write the journal and decide to check my emails. I walk up to the "Bar Armonia" - "Harmony Bar" - this turns out to be a joke! The internet is busy so I sit and wait near the bar. "Jurassic Park" is on - with no sound - high up near the ceiling and I sit and watch that whilst sneaking a glance occasionally at the local 'Indian' looking types sitting at a nearby table. The card-players from the week before are back around the big round table in the corner but they are alot quieter - possibly because there are more people in. The Indians have a young daughter - about 2 years or younger lying flat out on a dirty, wet floor having a bit of a tantrum and they just sit and are content to just look at each other and smile over a shared bottle of Quilmes beer. I keep on watching (by the way...It is 04 July 2006 21:12 - and I am still trying to catch up).

Im hoping to be able to get a good shot of something happening or 'just being' with these people during their evening out. The husband is there, the wife, the daughter - presumably her baby on the floor, the boyfriend or the Dad's son. They've all got a glass of beer and are just happy I guess to get out of the house. Im aware, as I wait [Im waiting for a computer to become available], of a man who sits down at my table with a drink - I continue to watch TV and be aware of whats going on around me. Then a man comes up to the bar - orders a drink and talks to the barman - I get the impression he is going to sit down but isnt too sure as Im at the table. I look up - make eye contact - we all say hello - and he sits down next to his mate. I look at them and point to the camera and ask to take a photo - a man I took a photo of at the bar, with the XPan - when I first arrived - comes to join us and they start asking questions. They want to know what Im doing here, why Im taking photos, who for, where Im staying and if Im English or Welsh. Then if its just photos of Welsh or 'locals'. One - the guy on the right - who looks like Robert De Niro [from the film "Cape Fear"] says he is an indigineous Indian. The mood turns sour when he mentions 'Las Malvinas' [The Falklands] and I put my head down - Im not too happy [I wont talk about that because its a sure-fire way to get into trouble; Im in their country and am not going to start to get into politics]. One of his mates from somewhere else comes up and tells him to shut up.

They are all quiet drunk. I think that offering to buy them all a drink will remedy things - I go to the bar and make an order for a bottle of beer thinking that the 3 would share it but Oh No! The little one with the "cut-off denim jacket" has the bottle all to himself which is almost too big for him to hold and Robert de Niro and his 'quiet' mate [totally out of it] have red and white wine respectively. De Niro is so excited he shakes my hand - biker style and pulls up his top to show me the name of his football team - its 'Pampalar" or something and I just think of nappies [Pampas]. He's very proud but leans too far forward and spills his drink everywhere - he hasnt even tasted it yet. I buy another for him and someone chucks him a cloth. He wipes the table and I make a praying sign to him and say "Please be careful". He obviously feels a twat but continues to 'act the Big I Am'. I take one more photo of them and the the little guy with his little wife - who is missing teeth. She looks like she tolerates him only 'cos she might get a hiding if she doesnt. He grabs her and pulls her close when Im pointing my camera at him. He punches the air and does a thumbs up - the camera takes 2 seconds to properly autofocus at the right point and I take it. He holds the pose. De Niro comes up to the bar - he is empty and I buy him another glass of white wine. Then I say 'Uno foto' and he shakes his head - he rubs his thumb and forefinger. 'Uno foto' I say and he repeats it again but then does a wanking sign afterwards [it doesnt mean the same here: it means 'excellent']. I am polite and just say "Muchas Gracias Senor" but I laugh at the same time. He doesnt like that much.

The guy behind the bar says I can go on the internet Thank God and I make my way to the kiosk/booth. A kid - maybe 11 or 12 pretends to trip me up as I walk past as he is waiting for his mate to take a shot at pool. They all laugh as I side-step his foot. I just leave it - there is nothing I can do - you just have to ignore. I use the net but go over my time - I hear someone "Oi" me and whistle but I ignore - Im tired, exhausted really - and cant be doing with any more petty shit. I go up to the bar to say thank you and the barman - a new one: a nasty looking bastard Ive dealt with before says a price I dont understand - I get him to write it down. Everythings too much hassle for him but he puts 3 pesos for 1 hour. 1 1/2 pesos for half an hour. OK _ I make a gesture to say I know Ive been another half an hour and give him a 2 pesos note - Ive already paid for an hour - he queries this and I say Ive paid 3 pesos already. These peoples whole existence is based on arguments, shouting, hasle. I say "Si" and hold 3 fingers up. Ive paid. he kind of believes me and gives me 50 cents change. I say thanks. By the look of his face I guess he thinks Im a soft touch - he must have heard when he swapped over from the other guy that I bought a couple of rounds in and he might be trying his luck!?

I walk back a bit fed-up but at least I got 'some' shots! Over the bridge - I feel really drunk and light headed [Im tee-total; Im not drunk] - I havent had a drink for hours. We said 'Salud' at the table before and the guy on the left had got me a glass of water - I didnt touch it though in case I got the shits! [I remember now that Robert de Niro and the guy on the left were doing all sorst of signs with their hands and fingers...they were asking me about girlfriends and if I was going to find one here in Argentina. There's a sign that you make with finger and thumb; kinda like an Egyptian sign for an eye but in fact here it represents a vagina. De Niro started to lick the hole his fingers were making. Its a sign Tito (Tatys cousin) makes to me when nobodies looking for a joke].

04 July 2006 - 22:20. Two whole days to write and then Im up to date. How detailed do I want/need to go - just carry on as before! Blimey! I get up - I guess I write some journal; I could turn the pages back and check but Im too tired - Im not surprised people siesta from 12pm - 4pm! This place knackers you! I walk up to the main High Street and see an interesting old tractor in front of the Welsh Lady Bar. 'Avenida' - Avenue. It looks like its been bent in two or in the middle - the bonnet slopes down at quite an angle. I think that at the Ploughing Society/ Vintage Rally on the island [Anglesey] would be interested in this. I cross the road for a closer look. It is aircooled and has 2 or 4 pistons. A belt off a huge flywheel on the crank turns a fan that blows air onto the cylinder fins. Its a good design. I look at the make 'FAMR'. Again - as with all tractors here, and all vehicles the exhaust pipe has no silencing. I take a photo and carry on my way to the Petrol Station.

Tommi said 12 or 12:30 so I hope he is there early and we can go on our way. (Get on with it). I take my Snugpak jacket jacket off. It is a lovely day. I walk up Sarmiento Street. Pablo is helping fill up a tractor tank and 2 oil drums on the back of the trailer with diesel. I say "Ola" and smile. There are 2 dogs playing - they are the petrol station (garage) dogs. 'Pero'. I make a fuss of them and play around. I ask Pablo when Tommi is coming - soon - he says. It must be a while and I ask again. It is 12:45pm. Pablo points to the 12. Agh! One o'clock! OK - Argentina time! I look around the shop next to the office - it sells a multitude of filters and oil. It is spotless - I guess when there's a quiet moment there's nothing to do but clean! I practice my Spanish and got my phrase book out. Pero - the puppy dog - "key bach" - is trying to chew the Snugpak jacket and I say in Spanish "Go away or I'll scream" - Pablo is listening and laughs - he corrects me on my pronunciation. I practice some more, "leave me alone" etc. then I say "Dos y mawr y malecachu". Pablo really laughs then! [Pablo understands a bit of Wels and can say a few words]. I take a elf-portrait when Pablo is busy with a customer and I whistle at "key bach" to get him in the shot. The cameras on an oil drum and has a 12 second countdown. Just then - when the shutter goes the dog sticks its tongue in my ear and I make the subsequent face1 Im in the shop when Tommi turns up. Ruben turns up too. Im keen to find out from Tommi about maps and who owned Rubens grandmothers land and what plot number it was. Ruben says 256B - I look at the camera LCD screen [at the photo I took in the museum] but typically it doesnt mention 256B - its off the edge! Ruben gets his Ford F-100 V8 3.8 litre 'Polo' small engine [?] to the back of the garage and drops the tailgate. He leans a wooden ladder against the ground and the Ford and explainsvia Tommy that the Spanish used to export wine to Argentina and this ladder type thing was used to off load the wine barrels from the train to the ground. There are 2 metal rods, going from oneside of the wooden post to the other to hold it all together but the metal is bent to allow for the bulging middle girth of the barrell. Ruben sets it up so he can push 2 oil drums up it on to the pick-up. I offer to help but he laughs. It takes Tommi, Pablo and Ruben to push the barrel up. 205 litre barrel - if that was water it would weigh 205kgs but oil might be heavier than water? Maybe 1/4 of a ton a barrel. The 3 push 2 barrels up and the pick-up sags slightly at its back end. Ruben drives off.

I try to understand the ownership of land but it is hard to communicate and I think I stress Tommi. It is tiring. We arrange fro 3:30 - good the time is getting earlier. I walk back and Ruth - Lucio's wife hands me a note that says please see Luned after 6:30pm, I say thanks and write the journal. I just have a banana as that is all I have. Tommi turns up just as I am locking the garage door. Actually I was juts boiling up the kettle for a new 'mate' - Im tired and needed a kick. I dont have time and turn the cooker off (Gas). We go down the road and out into the countryside - it turns to rough shingle. It's very bumpy. I can imagine many in Britain not even wanting to drive their 4x4's down this for fear of wrecking a part. [This country is where you really need a 4x4; definately not on British roads but most be dont have the money here so rely on much lesser vehicles - ironic]. Stones fly up hard against the floor of the little Fiat and it almost hurts the feet through the metal. The countryside is unbeleivably gorgeous. I am so happy to be in the country. It is wild. This is a really wide valley, green and lush in the middle with the Rio Chubut and canals and gravelly steppes at either side. We see CHIMANGO - a Patagonian falcon. It is sitting on a fence post. It has alot of white on it and could be the bird I saw when waiting next to the Fiat when we had the puncture. We turn off the 'road' and down a track to the farm.

It is Tommy's Uncle?! Before we had been driving on mud too and the gauge/width of the Fiat was narrower than the trucks that had been alng here before. Tommi fights with the steering wheel as he tries to keep the wheels in the tracks. He says the mud is salty and sticky - we slide about quite a bit and I have to say it is good fun. The track is quite muddy too but drying out and I admire Tommi for making the effort to take me! There are cattle - really healthy looking eating 'ALF-ALFA' and the colours are like someone has turned the technicolour up! The cattle look really bright and have saturated coats [colour wise] - it is as though the air is clearer and the sun is brighter. There is more contrast! Its incredible. The alf-alfa - like Hay is really bright green!

We go into the farmyard and park up near the door. It opens and Gwynfe comes out. We are introduced - I offer my hand - Im not sure if he knew I was coming. I gues so - he lives in town but commutes out everyday. The house isnt really fit to live in. I think he lives in Gaiman but Luned, today, 04 July tells me a sad story. He is 81 and was married maybe for 50 years. he didnt have any children. His wife never liked living in Gaiman. She was never happy. He built her a house in Puerto Madryn which is a long drive away [80kms or more]. He would go and visit her at weekends and spend the week at the farm. About last year of the year before he went back home at the end of the week ad she wasnt there - she had simply vanished!No explanation! She must have been at least mid-seveties. Luned said she must have walked into the sea. Then Luned and Tegai discuss at the table, today, whether bodies 'turn up' if drowned - not always Tegai says [morbid or what!?]

36 • Monday 03 July 2006 - BLUE SKIES AGAIN

2008-02-14T21:30:00.003-02:00

OK - its 03 July and 10:45 - Ive just got up and making hot water for 'mate'. Im in a hell of a rush - I have to go and see Tommi for 12 - so we can go out to farms and I dont want to be late. Blue skies again today - Ideal. Im 2 days behind now so here goes. On saturday I visit Rebecca White's - she lives in the zinc huse - a corrugated iron house up M.D.Jones street, near to Camwy School and Ty Camwy. It is "Y hen Bost" - The Old Post (Office). It was built in about 1906. I knock and no-one in so I go round the back and try - another plastic doll baby, on a bicycle, I sneak a quick shot just in case I dont get the chance again! Thats another "odd doll" Ive seen - the other at Alturo's. I go round the front, cross the road and take a shot of the front. I stand and look at my list of people to see and wonder where to go next. I see Rebecca pull up in a car with 2 kids and she waves - I dont realize she lives here. She asks me if Id like her to move the car so I can get a clear shot of the house - "its OK" I say.

We go up the steps and in through the front - she is in a rush and looks up the word "occupied" in her Spanish dictionary so I realize she has aalot to do. Sit down she says and turns the TV on in the ceiling corner of the front room. Discovery Channel comes on in Spanish and sharks are busy eating Albatrosses that are taking a break on the sea surface. Im really not interested in watching 'bloomin' TV at all.

I find the kids (only 1 is hers) another is a friend shrieking in the kitchen. One has the cat - the one that lives there and is barely able to hold it up. thats the first shot taken in a flash as the cat soon scrambles down out of her arms. I go back in case Rebecca wonders what I doing in her kitchen. I sit back down and she comes through with a glass squash - some kind of bright orange passion fruit squash.

She hands it to me and says - "No - Alcohol - Dim - Alcohol OK!" I think Eh!Eh! whats this! I havent told her I dont drink but I have told Mari so maybe the word has got around! alrady. Typical I think. No worries but as if she'd be handing me a glass of booze before midday! I glug it down fast - Im always thirsty and dont drink enough during the day. The climate seems to dry you out! The 2 girls come through, one with the cat and the other with a huge doll - Aagh! Another Doll! Props. The cat wriggles free again. Rebeccas daughter is keen to show me her tooth. It has come out of the front and is in a small hospital vile. She puts it down but I ask to see it properly - she gets it out and smiles and I see where the tooth is missing - I get her to hold it up and try to get her to smile to show where it came from but try as I may she doesnt understand all my funny faces and posturing and she remains tight-lipped! [never work with children or animals!?] I take a shot of the other girl - with Doll and thats it.

Rebecca says he has phoned her husband 'Juan' to come round - OK I say. I watch the horrible sharks. Juan arrives and I stand up and shake his hand. he looks slightly puzzled. Like "What do I want" and "what a I doing here". I explain - I think I show him the Luned Introduction. We go out the back and we stand and try to communicate in the garden. We talk about the house - he says the girls are "aqua" having a wash - and will be a minute. He works in Gaiman in TV. In TV or selling TV's Im not sure. But Ive seen the big satellite dish at the back of the town so maybe they have a studio there! He seems - Im not sure of the word but maybe a bit impatient and a bit condescending of me. Like he thinks that he doesnt have the time to spare someone like me to take his picture. The daughter comes out ready but with a hood up on a big coat - I guess so she doesnt catch a chill if she has wet hair. I want to get something - for once that doesnt resemble posed or looking at the camera so I fire one off quickly on the 6x7 as they are preparing to face me - they look at me as if to say "What are you doing!?" I take one more - treading the ground like a cruching crab to get the best composition. OK I say "muchas gracias".

I dont want to take any more of their time up - they're getting ready for the Eisteddfod [not the main one but a childrens one]. Im not too happy with the shot - its rated at 6400ASA - this shot f22/250th second. Its going to be quite grainy but might make it more interesting!? "Whatever will be will be" I think - a good shot happens in its own time and you have absolutely no control - its called "serendipity!" I go through the house - pack the shopping bag with cameras, Ive taken my shoes off to walk through the house and I put them back on outside the front [I was walking around the garden just in my socks] I say all the thank yous and goodbyes and Im off (I showed Juan my "Just heard the Cuckoo" book and Im glad I brought it - people dont equate m face to being able to take a photograph and I see people body language change - it does help!) I walk down the street and stop shortly just to re-organize myself. I had found a fir-cone in the garden and had explained to Juan that in Ynys Mon it is known as a "Mochin-Coed!" The name had just sprung into my head - I remembered 'Will Coch Y Moel telling me! I head back to the garage for a bite to eat or a 'mate' (I cant remeber). I change into my "Dickies" blue shirt which I bought for my first Private View in Canolfan Beaumaris in 2003 and put my tan trousers on.

I walk up to the bridge and go through the "hole in the fence" and walk towards the chapel. Bethel Chaple. It is the Mini- Eisteddfod. I see people are having to buy tickets 5 pesos for an adult. It is the man I met in the Post Office who has friends in Moelfre. I find out later from Mari it was his brother that got hit by a branch falling from a tree that killed him (did I mention I have had a dream about this along time before I came out!) Everyone piles in through 2 doors and it is a tight squeeze - it is packed out! I stand at the back and start to sweat. I need to get closer. I go out after taking a few poor photos and go to the other door - the door I had originally gone in through exactly a week previously - to the drawing competition on the day I first arrived! It is still a tight squeeze and you have to sort of slide in and find a position! I stay in one place, near the door, a baby starts howling and the Mum gets filthy looks. I want to take a photo = the Mum quickly sticks a nipple in its mouth - breast feeding at the Eisteddfod! It sucks noisily then settles. "At the milk bar" - I remember talking about this with Will at the farm when all 'Megs' first litter were taking milk. Will said I should have called the shot that! I edge to my left and get into a corner.I take some more. Then I go all around to the right and stand on a pew/bench to get a shot of Rebeccas Nursery School Class.

Its 11:30 and Id better go to see Tommi. Then I go back to my corner and wait to see what happens. I can see Luned on one table adjudicating and Mari on another - they are both teachers so they both get to mark the pupils. Eventually I get tired of being so far away and decide to push through the throng and get to the stage. When I do so Luned see's me and says go over there - pointing to a space at front right of her row of tables -

{Finish Eisteddfod. back to garage the long way along muddy road. out again at 8pm for wedding. Mari asks if I want to go to restaurant. Go to 'El Dragon' - back home.}
{Get up on Sunday - write diary - Fabio and Lucio to start the Clio - I go to Museum with Fabio and take photos - back home to a shop with Fabio in car - buy grub walk ret of way! eat - go out to internet - buy 'indigineous' Indians a drink. Use net - walk home.} {Up on Monday - write this - need more detail! Phew!} {The tractor is a FARMR outside Welsh lady Bar [Bar Avenida]. The tractor at Petrol Station is a SEMELA FIAT. Dog is 'Pero'. 10kg of Gas = 16 pesos.}
{256B = Rubens Grandmother. "Small Town - Big Hell". Tommy says when he tells me he knows that I went to the Restaurant with Mari on Saturday.}

" Im sure nobody will mind! So I stand where she points to and watch the crowd watching the kids who recite Welsh and Spanish songs, poetry, rhymes etc to great applause. Each child gets a material, felt, purse which have coded colours which is placed over their heads and around their neck when finishing their piece. near the end the examiners feverishly write out certificates for all the kids. Luned asks a child to pass a paper down to me - it is a message to say that there is a ladies choir recital at the tea house at 5pm. Im not sure if she means today or tomorrow (I dont look at it properly - it is tomorow!) I aslo learn later that it is at Ty Cymraeg! And that it is 20 pesos for tea Luned has also put. Not likely! Im not going back fro more 'Stewed Turkish Tea' thanks! Charlie has just put a tenner credit in my mobile - its 49p to send a text. Send one to my sister - its her birthday today! I look at the fir-cone on the table Im writing at in the garage here at Lucio's. It has opened right out - all its segments are pointing out as though it is airing itself and I remember Wll Coch Y Moel saying that the old people in Wales, on Anglesey, used to hang a fir cone - a Mochin Coed - on a bit of string from its thin end and hang it outside the front or probably the back door - this would act as a kind of natural barometer and tell the person what the weather likely to do. Ive always wanted to find someone who still has a fir cone hanging this way and take a photo [found a house on Stryd Ceunant in Llanberis with one outside the front door but never took a shot; another time!]

I realize that when alot of the Welsh speakers - who live on the farms out in the country side have died that it will be the end of a part of history. Luned says that alot of people are moving into the town that are Welsh. Presumably as they retire and there are less and less people left out there. Even though the kids are learning Welsh I think it is doubtful that they will choose to speak [it] when they are older, as a first language and certainly there wont be many moving out of town to the countryside who will speaking Welsh all of the time. I dont think that Welsh will ever die here, as long as the Dragon Coch is flying, and it will always be practised in classrooms, learnt by the children and used in choirs by adults [and children] to sing the tradition and heritage of a Welsh colony but certainly the Welsh farms that are left out there have have to be documented before it is too late. I think that most of the characters have died off already just like on Anglesey! I will write to Ceri Charles at the Arts Council of Wales, from here - but it might take these photographs from this outing to make her see I should continue with this study - before it is too late!

I leave the Mini-Eisteddfod at about 5pm and head back down a really muddy road I havent walked yet. Im on the look-out for the oven-house' of Violeta Phillips that Luned has told me about. I see a 'Cymru' sticker on the back of a car with an Argentine plate, obviously, and I squat down to take a shot, a Mum and her kids walk by and the kids laugh - I look up and its the Mums car. She is Welsh speaking - I say "Madrugeany" (I am bad) and she says something to say its OK and continues to go into the house. Just before this I see rather an attractive woman down the road toward me - I dont look at what Im doing whilst getting the camera out of the shopping bag and drop the digital on the road - the lens cover flies off and the camera is slightly scratched on the back - "Concentrate on your work Ed!"

I come back to the garage - I have some time to write. I then head back up to 'the hole in the fence' just before the bridge and walk toward the Bethel Chapel. (There are 2 buildings - one built in 1877 - the big one and the small one is where the Eisteddfod was). The church has its lights on and looks great - a huge, huge Yew tree looms in the darkness above it. I have never seen such a huge Yew tree! Tegai is approaching the Chapel from the smaller Eisteddfod building - she is just coming to look at the decorations inside, and has a quick peek. There are a few cars left and Luned, Tegai, Lucio are tidying up after the Eisteddfod has finished. I head over there and ask if Luned needs any help - "if I do, she says, I'll shout!" She also says that I just missed an 80 year old woman"holding forth". She must mean Tegai. Im not sure in what capacity - was she doing a Jerry Lee Lewis impersonation on the piano - having an argument - singing. telling a story? I walk out and across to the big chapel. A tall man with a small 35mm SLR camera with 2 flashes on it - which looks a bit macho and un-necessary stands looking important on the concreted area at the front of the chapel smoking a cigarette.{Just now Lucios wife - 'Ruth' the Arab lady - comes to the door of the garage as I write this and knocks - I jump up and open - she has a note that reads "Ed: Luned would like to see you after 6:30pm, at her home, please. Thank you." dated Monday 3rd July. I feel like I have to go and see the Head Teacher at school for a good caning! I thank Ruth very much and continue writing.}

It is 3:17pm and Tommy is picking me up soon. I wait near the edge of the chapel out of everyones way. People come and go, some wearing suits and smart dresses - others wearing jeans and casual jackets. A man and a young boy walk up to the main doors with wicker baskets full of scrolls of paper with ribbons. I later realize they are 'programmes' for the wedding service - one sheet of A4. (I have a copy from Mari). It seems to be an odd time to be getting married. Luned goes into the chapel and comes out saying "OK - come here now Ed, come on" - like Im a puppy - we are easily within talking distance but she wants me to come closer. She says she has spoken to the grooms Father and he says it is OK for me to attend the service. great - Luned had already said that the brides Dad had approved it - I think he passes me earlier - going in to the chapel surrounded by family - he spies me and turns as he walks in smiling, waves and says "Goodnight" - I laugh, I just cant bring myself to say the same back to him. I wait and wait - 2 or 3 men all wait outside with me, at different corners of the concrete standing. People arrive, people go in and out - everyone kisses each other on the cheek - its a great occasion. I get eyed suspiciously. The bride arrives in a blue car, a Volkswagen I think, with a great ribbon bouquet on the roof. She looks terrified. The driver carries on and drives away through the gates and is off - maybe shes changed her mind? Either its a practice run or she is too early. It is after 9pm. It starts to rain and I check my camera - wondering if I'll get some good shots. The digital is less cumbersome and less noisy than the 6x7.

35 • Sunday 02 July 2006 - CHACRAS, TRAINS & GIRLS

2008-02-14T21:22:00.005-02:00

02 July 12:28pm

Got a 'Mate' on the go and a bag of cornflakes, but no milk so eating them like crisps. As usual Ive got a back log in the journal - a backlog? I must be a lumberjack. Got in at something past 3am this morning! Blimey! Its really windy outside - Anglesey windy - it got up this morning when I was walking back from 'El Dragon' - the new bar that has just started up next to Ty Camwy. Anyway - Mary Day and Tommi talk in Spanish - maybe not enough (Tommi) words for Welsh so Spanish it is. A bit like in Britain I think they use it when they dont want anyone else to know what they're talking about. A thought occurred to me though yesterday when I went to the mini-eisteddfod that the Welsh have such a presence in the town that I felt they dominate perhaps things like the Eisteddfod that local people - real local people like the Indians feel totally left out. When I was waiting to go into the chapel yesterday an Indian woman and her chidren were holding back to go in until all the Welsh and Argentinian/Europenas had gone in. It was sad to see - the Indian woman ooked like such an underdog.

OK Mary Day and Tommi are talking and Ive been offered a seat which I take photos from of Mary. I also use the 6x7 which is rated at 6400ASA, after I 'pushed' it to photo 'Alturo' in his house. mary shows Tommi a book about bee-keeping - which he'd like to photocopy but I think she says he can borrow it. I take a photo from the wall of a Dragon Coch and also from the inside of a Holy Bible - given to Mary's Dad just before he came out here. We say our goodbyes and it is quite sad - Mary's husband died about 3 years ago and she must be lonely so far from town with just her dog but I guess her daughter/kids come and visit her - I think she is a great grandmother - possibly a great great grandmother Tommi tells me. Mary gives me a kiss on the lips and we go back to the road and the car.

We drive back and the sun is getting low. Tommi explains that the bus fare to Buenos Aires is very expensive - about 140 pesos. This is about £23.33 for a 1000 mile - 22 hour journey. Tommi wants to go to get some new tyres for the Fiat but also he has a 'plumba' come loose - a filling in his mouth - he has been using the same Dentist all of his life as he spent nearly all of his life in Buenos Aires. he worked in a pharmacy/ possibly a laboratory - I'll check. I figure that if I pay him 20 pesos a trip out out the countryside he'll be able to afford the bus trip up north. He says he's planning on taking a truck to Bahia Blanca where he'll take the bus. Maybe he has a friend he can get a lift with with to bahia Blanca? I ask if there is a train - he can use around here? Apparentey there are no trains south of Buenos Aires. It seems crazy - I ask why the Welsh train line enede and when - I think in the early 1970's?! It was political. It seems a shame as it would be so useful for so many people. I ask what happened to the train after the line closed - there is a tourist train in 'Esquel' and apparentley 'locomotive' went there. The rail line there and the old one here were 'narrow gauge'. Tommi tells me to come up to the petrol station on Monday at 12pm or 12:30pm and we'll go to see someone else he knows - Mary's brother who lives a short way from hers down the main road south to Comodoro Rivadavia. He has a farm too. I need to get hold of a map! If I can get people to mark on it where al the Welsh farms are I will try to get there myself! (If I decide to stay here longer?) Just imagine if I get a really good list together and manage to cover every one. This is an amazing opportunity to put together a colossial body of work that would be of vast interest to alot of people and I might get a big publisher interested!

Just imagine a book with a map on it that shos I have covered every single Welsh farm in quite a vast area! Im thinking of buying a motorbike to get around on but then decide perhaps - Tommi might be a good bet if he can take the time to help - he speaks the language and already has a car. As long as those tyres hold out! 1 month doesnt feel long enough here - there is so much to do, so much to cover - taking photos doesnt happen instantly and it takes time to find the right peopel to photograph! I am in a dilemma. Charlie is missing me and is looking forward to me coming back soon! [ that's all going to change in less than a week when she starts shagging a ticket collector] Also I have a weeks teaching in bath for the Duke of Ednburgh Awards, then I said I would take Charlie down on the CBR400 to France to visit my Mum. Ive also got a tax return to hand in by September! But I have a huge opportunity now that Im here! Imagine going back to shitty old Britain and yearning to be taking more images here and then trying to find the money to come back out and feeling like Ive wasted the opportunity whilst I was here! And if I want to get a book published it wont be of work that I just took in a month - it would have to be of a long serious study. I might have enough work for Oriel Mon for a month but imagine making a book of "Gaiman - A Welsh town in Patagonia" and being able to sell it at the Oriel Mon exhibition - even if I got it printed in Bridgend by Gemini - it could still command a high price! like £100 a copy. And if people are too tight to buy it then "Fuck-em!" I'll have to see how next week goes...I make a list of things to do.

Charlie has a meeting in London with VSO on 12th or 13th July about going out to work in Africa. She is saying in her emails that if she doesnt get to go then she wants to travel the world with me. I feel as though she might drop the Africa idea as it is more of a dream and take the easier option/ rely on me to travel with. She wouldnt like me saying that. The typical result/ reaction of going away to somewhere mystical like South America has made Charlie go all 'soft' on me - she has apologized for it. Its 13:37 and the winds making the garage doors blow and bang/ crash. Its beautiful though and I should be out in it! Clear beautiful blue skies! I havent been keeping my log of expenses up to date and realize it is actually crucial to do so. I have to show the Arts Council of Wales that £1,800 is not nearly enough money to send someone all this way - especially if I have to pay to get taken places! [words fail me - The Arts Council of Wales is the most ignorant, unhelpful and mean organization I have ever come across]. If Richard Evans can get 5 grand from the Eastern Arts Council [of England] and 1 grand from both Colchester Borough Council and Essex County Council on a shitty exhibition called "My Town" then the Arts Council should come up with a bit more in Wales! Richard [he went to the same college as me at more or less the same time at Colchester Institute] Richard told me he calls getting a big grant like that "his wages" (for a year!) and apparentley he spent most of it on a holiday to Thailand. The little cunt is full of shit! It makes me mad. But eventually the quality of my work will hopefully shine through. The Welsh will be sorry they didnt try to help me more [are they f*ck!] - I will make them aware of that!

Tommi drops me off and I have a rest (I think - I cant remember now) I do go back out just with the Pentax digital and try to phone Mari. The phone next to the park doesnt work - the '1' [phone button] doesnt work and I wonder how I sorted it out when I first arrived on the Saturday (24th) as I had to press '1' to phone Luned. I walk down the street to a kiosk on the corner of Sarmiento Street and put 30 cents in. Mari answers - I have time to say Hi and then get cut off. Damn - I dont have any more coins so I have to get change. I figure I should go into 'Siop Bara' (this is last day of June 30th) and buy a sandwhich as Im hungry - havent really eaten all day! I look at the chocolate behind the glass and think I should take some round to Mari. I buy 2, one for me too! and hand the man my introduction from Luned. He gets quite excited and says one moment - he dissapears and comes out with 2 flags - for a second I wonder what the hell he is going to do! Is it a dance? He opens the door - it is night and stands on the edge of the wall to get high enough to put one flag in - the Argentinan one first then the Welsh. I get a shot of both. If I had used the 6x7 I probably would have missed one shot and I dont have a dedicated flsh for it. The 6x7 is the most fantastic camera for really beautifully detailed and focused exhibition sized prints but the *ist DL2 digital camera is incredible for really candid work - Im totally made-up I bought it! We go inside and take some shots of him with customers but Im not too happy with them - they're nothing special. he takes me through to the kitchen and is keen for me to photograph people making bread "manana". I say "Si, Si" and thank him - I'll be back tomorrow!

I go back to the phone at the other end of the high street, Im getting fitter! and phone Mari again, apologizing for getting cut-off! I ask how she is and what she's been up to - just checking she's OK. I dont know if sh's busy - (I could eat both chocolate cakes myself!) but she does invite me up! I take my shoes off and go in - its nice and warm and I offer her the bag - does she want to put the kettle on? She has Nescafe in a jar - here in Argentina - you can buy coffee with sugar in the jar with it - all mixed up or she has just normal coffee. She says she also has filter coffee in 'bags' [like teabags] which I say I'd try - good she says - because she prefers the nescafe in a jar - it sounds as though she doesnt want to let any of the un-sugared Nescafe in a jar go! I sit on the sofa - her at the table but Im holding a plate in one hand - a cup in the other and its awkward. I ask to sit at the table across from her and we talk about North Wales (she's from Bangor originally and her parents still live there!) Mari was planning on going around to see an elderly lady to borrow her piano for tomorrows Eisteddfod but as we talk it gets later and later and I say I dont want to be 'moiddering' her if she has got things to do! She makes an amzed face as she hasnt heard that term used for ages. She says she hasnt had anyone to talk to in English for ages, not really at all since she arrived and likes the company. When it gets quite late...maybe 11 or 11:30 she asks if Id like to go for a drink. I think she likes her beer and says we can try a bar around the corner - the new 'El Dragon'. We go and talk to the owner [running the place - Sergio Owen] a youngish guy who is a sculptor - the bar is only open from about 10pm - 5am o Fridays and Saturdays. Its an old bakery with the oven still in wall behind the bar. It also has a huge 'trough' for, I guess, making dough in. It has 2 large "whisks" attached to a motor that can travel the length of the trough which must be used to mix the dough! Its amazing! Its really well decked out.

Time now 14:38 - Im knackered writing this but it's just as well to finish it! I think Mari thinks I must be "on the pull" with her and we leave after talking at the bar to the owner and is mate. The owner gets a tea-towel of a map of Wales out - he is learning Welsh so that he can speak to his customers. I guess there are plenty of Welsh visitors in the summer - it makes me realize I have picked a great time to cme out - in the winter as its off season and I wont seem like such a tourist/ the locals might have a bit more time for me. Mari and I say goodnight o the pavement outside the bar - she has to get up early in the morning. I walk back cursing myself that perhaps she thought I might have wanted to come back to hers (for the night). I pass the Post Office (Mari had 2 bottles of Heineken: quiet big...maybe 750ml, I had half's of Coke x2) [I remember having an incredibly dry throat - the downside of not drinking alcohol and being in a 'round' where the other person gets to drink alot more in quantity than you and you have to wait until its time to get a drink in again] and there are some kids outside - they seem a bit drunk - further down there seems to be a party in the Pensioners Hall - where I have to go next Thursday whe the old people have their feet done. The kids are having hysterics and its good to hear people having so much fun without having to smash stuff up and be rude.

I get back and go straight to sleep. Oh yeah - after Tommi dropped me off I just wrote down quickly stuff about mary Day so that I wouldnt forget. [wrote that down ealier in this typed version] Phew thats Friday written about! The big stiff blanket/ carpet/ rug type thing Ive been sleeping under in the garage bedroom keeps slipping 90 degrees in the night and I wake with my legs poking a long way out of the bottom of the bed - it is quite hard to get warm then and I prefer to lie on my front with legs splayed across the width of the bed! I opt to get my "Snugpak" sleeping bag out of its compression sack and I take the sheet from under the rug and put it on top so I lie on the rug and tartan blanket then on top of the sheet but then just sleeping bag on top of me. The night before I felt something digging-in undr the sheet. Ive felt it all the while but have been too tired to check it out! I find it is under the bottom sheet and pull it against the sheet to the edge of the bed! It is a very small metal knife from a play-set - Im glad it isnt any bigger - there could have been an injury! [felt a bit like Gullivers Travels]

01 July 2006
It isnt so sunny today - actually drizzling a little bit. I go at about just after '10' to photograph the kitchen in Siop Bara and decide to buy sandhwiches and a 'cream' pastry and coffee and sit to write the journal. I am in there for well over an hour and a half. I think maybe the woman is pissed off Im using her cafe as place to "hangout" so I ask for another coffee. Her husband comes through and asks her if Ive taken photos - she says Yes - he looks concerned at me writing - perhaps they think Im writing bad things about them?!

34 • Saturday 01 July 2006 - DINOSAURS, BOGEYS, BLUE SKIES, FORDS & FIATS

2008-02-14T21:18:00.007-02:00

01 July 2006 10:54am

Siop Bara. My God Ive got some catching up to do. Im in Siop Bara for breakfast. A cappuccino which is just all bubbles, a huge "bugs bunny" sandwich [the company which makes these sandwiches is called GUSTOS and uses a picture of bugs bunny to promote the brand] and a 'crema' pastry. Before I write anymore Id better finish with, not yesterday but the day before. Pablo and Tommi drop me off after going to where the old railway was, the bee shed and the old Welsh farm house. It's still light but Im exhausted! Maybe its around 6:30pm/7pm. Half the tiring bit is communicating - keeping your ears on tiptoe when trying to understand and be understood. I decide Im going to write the journal and settle in the garage with 'mate'. Soon 'Lucio' comes round with Fabio to get a tow-rope - they're going to tow Luneds car back to put in the garage - Lucio takes his white Renault out, when he walks back in there's a large space where the car had been - its a good square space - as he walks back from closing the front garage doors he says "ping-pong" - it cracks me up - it just sounds funny and there looks like there is just enough space to have a game.

Mary Day. 84 years old. Went to Camwy school in 1934 but it was called a different name then. Her Dad was English from Merthyr Tydfil [Its possible to be English and come from Merthy Tydfil; my Grandmother was Scottish and was born in Mold] and her Mum from Betws Y Coed. Her mum came out here in 1912 and her Dad in 1915. They met out here. Her Dad came out to be with his brother - the brother called for him to come out. His brother then went back to Wales! [the original, first brother out here returned to Wales]. Mary spoke English and Welsh before she went to school and then just spoke Spanish as all the other children spoke Spanish at school. Her children dont speak Welsh - their generation dont - she hasnt really been able to speak Welsh since her husband passed away 3 years ago. He was a farmer and her Father and Mother lived in the house she is in now. She was born here. Now they grow Alf-Alfa for cattle feed - 3 times a year - they used to keep cattle themselves. Her daughter bought her the "cymru am byth" sign for her birthday a long time ago - from Trelew but Mary says she has never seen one [the same] since - they are very rare! "The dog is Keira".

Fabio and Lucio come back with the Renault Clio of Luned and I help push it inside - I ask why they didnt try bump-starting it - as its here to dry-out...it wont start. Fabio says he doesnt know about bump starting...he doesnt know about anyhting! Im wondering if the car is here because of the dents and scratches down the side of it and maybe Luned has guests coming to her house and she doesnt want to re-count the tale of crashing into her sister Tegai as they met on the hill up to the house. I want to help get the Clio started so I ask them to lift the bonnet. I have a look - I explain in Britain there is a spray called WD-40 that dries out condensation on wiring. [You can by it here also in Patagonia[.Fabio is oblivious to everything. Lucio turns the key, just for a second and the engine turns OK. He turns it off abruptly and syas No! it wont start. It wouldnt be the damp because there doesnt appear to be any - as the bare metal around here shows. Its desert and everything is dry - there is no moisture in the air - even though it has been raining. I figure that Luned is too proud to drive her scratched car around as fingers will point. I write the journal then head out to use the internet - I leave the red and white stripey shopping bag at the garage and walk into town with just the 'digital'. This Pentax camera is becoming something of a friend! I use the internet - no reply from Sony about their microphone not working on the Mini-Disc. I write them another email but this time firmer. I want a tape recorder sent out to me here so that I can do my work! I head abck and go to bed.

30 JUNE 2006
I wake and its a beautiful blue sky, sunny day. Its just like summer! Argentina are playing Germany today - the streets seem more full of people than usual and you can feel the anticipation in the air! A ine of about 5 cars drive down the high street, as normal but they're all sounding their horns like mad. Im surprised to see that the front car is driven by a woman and she is grinning from ear to ear - pleased she's got such a good following! I look at my list and decide, for now, Im going to have to continue photographing in town, until I can get out to more farms. I walk up M.D. Jones street to find the couple who live in the 'zinc' house. Juan Davies and Mrs. Rebecca (as written on Luneds list).
I wander up the street a bit looking at which moment all the chldren come out of Camwy school - the street is flooded with kids. I ask an elderley couple and they point then I ask 2 youths closer to where I think Im going, they point that Im right outside it. I go up the the steps to the front door and knock - someone fumbles for a while, disappears then fumbles again. It is a teenage girl - Argentinian - who is looking for the key. The door opens and I ask for "Juan Davies" no - she makes finger signs for the time to come back. I walk down the street and decide I'll go and visit Tommi and Pablo in the petrol station on the road out of town. I walk upSarmiento Street and see that Alturo's chimney is going well - either he's cooking or is house is on fire! I walk back to the high street and everywhere is totally closed apart from cheeky little dogs that walk across the road like they now own it as the cars have gone. Silence! Everyone is watching the match.

I go into Lynnyrd Synnyrd as the owner shake sme firmly by the hand, he has a big smle and is genuinely sincere I feel ashamed almost that I am British and feel like a American [North American!] storming around taking photos. I ask for 'Quilmes' the Argentinian national beer and they find one for me - none in the fridge. A young girl maybe 11 years old gets 2 x 1 litre bottles of beer, presumably for her Dad and friends to drink whilst they watch the match. It is midday. I pay with a 100 pesos note [about £16) - which causes some concern as it is alot of money. They eventually find change - I feel terrible. I say "pardoneh" [should be perdone]. I walk back up Sarmiento Street. The only people I can see "working" are men at the back of a huge truck with a drilling rig standing vertically at the back of it. There is a radio - it is very loud and the men are standing around it listening intently.

I go up to Alturo's house and quietly take a photo of the plastic doll I notice the day before. Then I knock on the door and say "Oooorlagh" he answers and comes to the door. I say "Ola" and mention "photo" - "foto" - he doesnt seem too affected by me so i pull the bottle of beer out of the bag and hand it to him. I point at my chest and ask/gesture for me to come in. He says yes and he puts the bottle of beer on the ground near the doorway. he is concerned about the state of the place even though it is totally uninhabitable, by western standards, he has his pride and tidy ups the table. It has the big knife on it from yesterday and some empty tins. dont look too closely - it is a delicate matter going into someones house - especially if they're concerned it isnt tidy and I respect the fact that he is trying to clear the place up. I dont look and dont take my camera out - I havent asked permission yet properly. He clears all the cutlery and other bits up and drops them into a drawer. He clutches at the table and other furniture as though he is at sea in a Force 9 Gale and steadies himself as he walks from the cupboard back to the table. He pauses and stars at me. I point at the seat and say "por favor signor!" He is glad I want him to sit and I feel desperately sorry for him. The walls are black as can be - it seems the chimney doesnt work properly and the smoke is leaking back into the room - I imagine it is like a cave from neolithic times when there was no chimney for the smoke to escape from. Part of the ceiling is missing and you can see through the rafters up to the tiles on the roof. The walls have plaster missing and it is a rough, earthy, gravely floor. Just ground. The surface of the table is rough like sandpaper - I dont want to stare at anything in case I offend. realize the surface is thick dust, like rock powder - which must be 'ash' from something he has burnt. He is burning paper and only paper in his 'range' that he huddles next to, to keep warm. It is beautifully warm outside but he must prefer it inside with the door closed Only a small portion of window space is open to let in light. There is a cat at his feet ad I ask him "quel nombre" "what name is the cat?" pointing - it legs it out of the door - he says it has no name - it is wild. he starts talking in Spanish [Castellano] asing me questions - he asks if Im Welsh or English. I say English - I think he makes out that there are no English here - there might have been once he mentions the Rio - the river and points southwards. or west. southwest. It seems that he is very knowledgable. He stands up and picks the bottle of beer up - He offers me some I say No! and point to my temple - "Loco!" "Loco" it makes me mad! [Thats the easiest explanation I can give for not drinking alcohol...I stopped drinking after 20 January 2005 because Id been way over doing it all my life and had had enough] he smiles and laughs a bit. he goes into the cupboard and produces a combined cork screw and bottle opener which looks ancient. he whips the top off the beer bottle and takes a good gulp. I feel guilty for providing him with basically a bribe for getting into his house and that it might not be doing him much good. But he is happy and I hope he enjoys the beer. Ive heard from Luned that he has a brother and I ask about him - he is called "Linder" - but he is in hospital - apparentley they both like to drink. The conversation ends and I can tell that he is bored - maybe he wants to get a load of beer down him quickly and doesnt want to offend me - he still has his pride! He asks for the time _ I open my mobile phone - God I feel a twot - this modern horrible device in such a humble home!

Its 12:48 on 01 July 2006.

I reckon Ive been here exactly a week to the hour! It feels like 3 months! I now know my way around town - God nows Ive walked around it everyday! There are 40 shots left on the digital - that means Ive taken 300 on it in a week and almost 100 on the 6x7's. No! almost 110! Im on my eleventh film. (120 film). I walk up to the petrol station after shaking Alturo's hand and thanking him very much! [My first visit to him I took photos outside his door and the second visit of him against his range...later I went back there again with Andres Evans and we made a recording of him talking about his family story as well as taking a photo of him sitting on his bed (6x7) and digital shots for montages] Pablo, Tommi and an Argentinian/ Indian looking man are all watching TV - looking upwards at the TV in the corner, high up near to the ceiling. A coach/ bus is parked up outside on the road with its door open - I guess the Indian guy has taken time off work to stop by and watch the football. im conscious that they might think Im going to disturb them trying to watch the game so I shut-up after 5 minutes - whilst the half-time interval is on. Pablo jumps up when Argentina score and "yips" a happy noise. Tommy and the driver are slightly more reserved and dont jump up. Tommi has said that he can drive me out to more farms - I show him the list Luned has made me. I say I think I will have to be here a year to get to see all of the names! [Quite ironic because I did in fact stay for a year in order to take as many photos as I could - and still didnt get to see all the people, mainly because it was almost imossible to find people to take me in their cars to the farms and I also ran out of money to pay them to do so]. He agrees! Germany scores and Pablo is furious. He is married to "Nia" [Angelica] I think she is called - the pretty dark haired one who gave me a kiss on the cheek at Ty Camwy and whom I photographed first at Bethel during the drawing competition. Something tells me she is not happy with Pablo. When he took her home yesterday from the service station they didnt have too much to say.

Pablo grabs the broom and starts sweeping the floor furiously; around our feet, out of the door and along the kerb of the forecourt. I think this isnt good. It would be nice if Argentina wins then everybody will be happy and with a 'not too hidden agenda' I should have more luck with my photographs. There are 13 minutes extra time left. Everyone jumps up like they have important work to do - I hope we are going to watch the rest of the match but its as though the 3 know Argentina has now lost. Tommy says "now I go" "I pick you up at 4 - OK?!" "Where you go now?" "I give you a lift to Lucio's?!" I say no thank you I have to go and buy some "aqua" - but its siesta time and actually doubtful I will find anywhere open. I really fancy a walk - it is a lovely day and Im always thinking I will see something interesting to photograph. Tommi leaves and I say to Pablo "C'mon Argentina" with a softly clenched fist and smile but he, perhaps, doesnt know how to take it - his English isnt that good. In retrospect I should have said "Viva Argentina".

I walk back down "Sarmiento Street" to the High Street "Tello Street" [Avenida Eugenio Tello]. It is very quiet. There is no trumpet playing or tooting of horns and I fear the worst. Argentina have lost. The referee was way out of order with them and totally "Pro" Germany winning - but of course the World Cup is held in their country. Its a set-up! Whatever is happening in Argentina though Im aware of one thing - Ive got amazing bogeys! I wasnt aware of having any in Britain for a long time but here Im inclined to remove huge healthy amounts all day. Not that you wanted to know that ! Bogeys!!! OK C'mon Ed. I tell myself, its 6:49pm on 01 July 2006, a Saturday and Im only at about 2pm - yesterday! [in writing my diary] I walk all the way down the high street to the dinosaur park which an eccentric man has made from plastic botles and rubbish - I read about it on the internet. Tommi, in the car, yesterday said it is a "bluff". It is just to try and attract the tourists.

I take a photo of a Ford 1952 pick-up truck which I have seen in regular use around the town. Then take a photo of the dinosaur park and then a brightly painted wall of a shop just as a woman comes out onto a veranda - if you look at the top left corner you will see her looking at me - I pretend to examine my camera _ I look at the picture to see how it turned out. I dont want to upset anyone or have any confrontation. I walk back to the garage - my home for now - and continue to write my diary. At 4pm or just before I go and sit outside on the concrete ramp from the main garage door to the road. I had spoken to Lucio and made sure he saw me sweeping out the crumbs I have made on the tiled floor from all my baguette eating. In the last few days there ahev been a steady stream of very small ants coming in under the side door, which I use to come in and out, and going in under the cooker! "Amigo's" Lucio says [he actually says Ormiga's but I dont understand the word; he is saying Ants and I think he's calling them Friends!] - I like his dry sense of humour [Im ignorant and totally barmy!] They are red ants he tells me. I say Im concerned about them spreading around the place and he goes and gets some Ant spray. He says there is one problem though "TOXIC!" We trace the origin of where they are coming from - a small hole along the bottom of the wall outside near the side door. He gives them a squirt. They have been in the bin going through the old "mate" I have chucked. (I put hot water onto the "mate" about 20 times before I change it - that is what I have been told to do. Tommi arrives in the Fiat at Argentina time - it doesnt matter though - Im soaking up the sun.

We drive out of town and he says he is taking me to a name on Luneds list that is his Mothers cousin. After all the houses stops and we are heading into the country the paved, surfaced concrete road stops too and goes to stone. It is rutted, quite deeply in places and the holes; channels are full of water. Tommi swerves around them, looking at me more than the road as he is talking to me - and sometimes we both lok up to see we are heading towards the ditch. I dont mind though - we are heading toward the countryside and I feel all the pressure and tiredness of being in a town lift. I am really excited. Then there is a slight change in noise as we continue and Tommy realizes there is a slight problem. The car leans to his side, we stop and both get out. There is a puncture at the rear on the left side - the offside. Damn - he has a spare wheel, under the front bonnet but no jack. I say I'll try to lift it but he says No. he phones Pablo at the petrol station who comes out in his 1.6 Fiat. Pablo has a jack as part of his car tool kit but Tommy doesnt like using it. t seems to be denting the underside of `tommi's car. They decide to go back and get a trolley jack. I wait by the car.

It s beautiful, warm and very sunny. Lorries, cars, pick-ups go past. One is kitted out like a Desert racing 4x4 and it goes past at at least 60mph! You hear its supension working harder than the noise of the engine! The wheels at the front are po-going up and down about 10 times a second and Im surprised it hasnt broken The driver is on the wrong side of the road, on the left, and there is a car coming towards him. Presumably, it looks like, he is on that side of the road, isnt so pot-holey! It looks like a game of "chicken" and Im getting worried - at the last minute [second!] he swerves, goes to his side, the car passes and he goes back to the wrong side again. Time passes and I look across the fields towards a nearby farm and can see sheep. I wonder if they are 'Moreno'. 3 geese fly over head and I wonder also what/who they are. I havent seen that breed before. I also see a very bright white bird sitting in the top of a bare tree - all of its leaves gone to the winter. It looks like a bird of prey but it is the colour of a seagull. My brain starts to ache. This really is the other end of the world! I decide to take a photo of the car by itself, the blue sky nd shadows. A green car full of people drives slowly by - all of them stare at me. They must be wondering what Im doing all aone with a small Fiat, a flat tyre and taking a photo of seamingly nothing!

At that moment pablo and Tommy arrive back and they get out laughing - they must be thinking its funny - me taking the picture and Pablo says "Loco" - mad! That is what the green car must be thinking I am. Tommi has a trolley jack and we get the wheel changed OK. Tommi, while we are waiting for Pablo to arrive before, says that it is hard for him to get replacement "pneumatics" around here. He will have to go to Buenos Aires for replacement tyres. I look at the punctured tyre and not only has it got a hole - that I stick my finger into for a photo but a great chunk of tread is missing - like it has been sliced off. I put the wheel back into the front of the bonnet and Tommi tells me to be careful of the "Klaxon" - the 'horn' I say. maybe it is a 'Klaxon'. He has learnt some good words! Pablo had to remove all his stuff fro the boot of is car when trying to find his 'jack' the first time and when he was busy putting everything back into the boot again whe they decided the car jack was no good I take a photo of them and a Welsh Rugby sticker on the windscreen that Luned had given to Mari who had given it to Pablo's wife. Earlier I saw it and Pablo also brought my attention to it. he tapped his finger on the windscreen and said "Eh?!" "Urgh!" "Dai Iown" I say - "great" = standard answer to everything!

I say "Muchas Gracias" to Pablo and he goes back to the petrol station. Tommy and I continue - the spare wheel which is on is totally bald. I hope it holds. We park utside 'Salem' chapel - made from 'zinc'. It reminds me of a warm sunny Scottish Highlands being here. We walk up to it and I take a shot. Tommi points at the brand stencil on the zinc sheets. The chapel is over 100 years ld. There is no rust and the corrugated iron sheets look like new! I laugh out aloud - the sheets are made in Wolverhampton [English] and have been shipped all the way out here. I cant believe it! EMU rand I say. Tommi asks what is an Emu? the explains they have a type of bird like this too in Patagonia - a few types maybe - the difference being with the number of toes they have! It is locked. Tommi says Luned will know when it is open next. he thinks during winter it is open once a month for a service. And twice a month during summer. He has been there before when they have tea-parties in the church. He points to a sort of "vestry" he says on the side of the chapel. We get back in the car and travel about 30 yards to the next door building. This is where Mary Day lives. We park outside the gate and he says there s no-one home. I am adamant in my mind that I will pay him for helping but really would like to get my moneys worth - I hope someone is at home! A huge lolloping Alsatian appears and then the front door opens. mary is at home - Fantastic Tommi climbs out of the car and greets her in Spanish. He says in English - I am surprised that he speaks it..."There is a tourist here to see you!" I want to get a shot of the house - but keep it candid. "kiera" the dog dissapears. mary has said her name already so I shout it now - trying to call her back. Mary is slightly deaf and thinks I am talking to her! It gets to be quite hard wor. I say Id like to get the dog back and just when its really too hard to explain she comes lolloping back towards us. I call her and the shot is made/ falls into place. Im invited inside and I take my shoes off out of respect.

33 • Friday 30 June 2006 - TY ZINC

2008-02-14T21:14:00.006-02:00

30 June 0:14HRS.

After looking at the Pentax *ist DL2 Ive got 101 shots left. Ive deleted some today after going out to Tommies hives - I was trying to get the exposure right for several shots: like the 'outhouse' with fridge door - I took 7! to get 2 that I really like - the foreground sharp and bright but a heavy dark sky. Ive used 9 rolls of '120' now on the 6x7 MK1 (I think I'll swap to the MK2 now - the MK1 has been 'freezing' alot - Its got a brand new battery so it's not that - its the wiring I think, damp or condenstaion or just a mind of its own).

Since I started taking shots with the digital - on the day that I left - last Thursday Ive taken 263 shots with it! Ive deleted quite a few I reckon that Im left with 239 + 90 = 329 shots in less than a week of shooting! THURS 22 JUNE 6am - 29 JUNE 6pm! Actually that's just a week = pretty hard work! (9 rolls of '120' since Saturday mid-day), 239 shots approximately since last Thursday on digital. Its 30 June 10:45, Ive just counted and its 10 rolls of '120' Ive shot! Not 9! Argentina are play Germany and I hope they beat the bastards! I can already hear the car horns going off around the town in anticipation of the match. OK - yesterday - Ive left Altiro's [Alturo] and I come back to the garage - taking photos of buildings along the way.

I write the diary and drink 'mate' until Tommi and Pablo arrive to take me out to the farm ['Ty Zinc' & Ruben Rogers Chacra]. Im only standing outside about 5 minutes when they come round the corner in a tiny old Fiat 600R! Actually Tommi tells me its an 800cc. Its from the 1960's. I immediately take a photo as it turns up. Pablo climbs into the back and we're off. We leave town, thank God - I'm desperate to get into the countryside. We turn west and drive for 10km. We pull left off the main road and down a dirt track, I can see a farm to my left but we dont stop. The people there might not be Welsh but it looks incredible! They have a horse, a pick-up truck and a one storey (ground floor) mud house. I am bloody excited now! This is all I have dreamt of! But we dont stop and continue down a track towards more scrub, brush, sand and desert. We come to a fence which doubles as a gate and it is padlocked. "Bunny" - Tommy cries and points through the windscreen - a giant hare runs across the track and dissapears. "Bugs Bunny!" I have hysterics - that was no Bunny! It was a monster! We park and get out. We walk off the track towards a scrapped car - (General Motors - Renault bought them) and walk across a place where the fence is down. We walk back onto the track and head towards - well - I cant see anything so let's just say the horizon! Eventually we come to a large 'zinc' shed - Corrugated Iron and Tommi goes immediately to the door to unlock it. He keeps all of his bee-hive kit here. Pablo sets about making a fire in a tin drum and says "Mate?" I say "Si, Si!" (Im hooked on the stuff) "iown". Tommy gets firewood - Pablo makes the fire. Tommy speaks quite a bit of English - Pablo doesnt have any. Pablo passes me the tiny enamel mate cup and 'bombisha" [bombilla] the metal straw. He must pass it to me a dozen times. We all have a go on it.

I walk to the river [its a canal] with Tommi as we can hear a cat mewing. It is wild though, looks like a household cat and is making a noise as it cant get across. There is water in the canal - only a bit though as it has mostly been drained for use by the farmers. The cat wants to cross and mews non-stop - Tommy says in English "there's a bridge 100 metres down there", pointing, to the cat "you can get across there". The cat climbs down the bank and treads around in some reeds, lifting its paws high to keep them from the water. We are next to a clay oven and Tommi explains that all the Estancia's (Ranches) like this one had an outside oven like this to cook bread in and it would be fired with wood and cow-shit. Dried cow-shit. Ruben the guy from the 'auto-spares' arrives to check we are OK and asks Tommi to move the Fiat out of the way of the track. Tommy brings the Fiat up to the zinc shed and we finish the 'mate'. The cat has got over some how and it arrives at Tommi's feet. The sign - 'graffiti' behind Tommi in the photo says "headquarters of Bee-keeping" or something like that.

Apparentley - so Fabio says in the evening there is an 'Expo' of honey in March in Gaiman [The Agropecuaria del VIRCH Farmers show] and Tommies honey is the best [wins first prize]. We walk further on to another farm - where Ruben (Oscar Thomas Autospares) grandmother used to live. She was Welsh, the building was made by Welsh people as everyone who lived around here in the 1865's onwards was either Welsh or 'Telhueche' Indians. Before we get to the farm we are walking along the desert floor but it seems quite 'uniform' in places - there is no path or track as such. Tommi says it is where the Old Welsh railway line used to run. I cant believe it. I dig my heal into the ground several times, like Im about to place the ball for a rugby conversion. "Here?" I say. "Here?" Yes they both say. Tommi, who is a bit older than Pablo says he can remember travelling on the train along here in the sixties with his grandad! Just a shortway from where the track would have been Tommi finds a nail that would have been used to nail the track to the wooden sleepers. He gives it to me and says I should take it with me - he says he has cleaned one up and he found a date on the top of it '1824' I think he says? But he's not sure if I'll get it through customs or not. We look at the farm and walk past an old railway crossing warning sign that just about shows a faded picture of a steam train, Tommi shows that the walls of old house are made from mud, but it is a special mud, like clay and it has grass in it to bind it together.

Apparentley 2 men were living here until about 13 years ago I think but there was a fire and they moved out - Im not sure if a gas bottle exploded!? Ruben hopes to do it up and use it as a summer house. It is getting dark. Before, at the zinc-shed I need to go for a pee and he motions towards the trees - he says there is a 'bathroom' there. I push through the branches, closing my eyes and keeping a hand over the digital camera lens - I dont have a UV filter over it to protect it. He says behind me that the door to the outhouse is a fridge door and sure enough it is! I laugh, I cant open it - it is either stuck or fastened - Im not bothered I just want to get a good shot of it! I peer over the top of the door, there is just a hole in some old planks of wood. I go for a pee next to it in the bushes and take 7 shots - I want the foreground t be light and sharp but keep the dark sky. It takes 5 attempts to get it right - by using flash to give the foreground detail but underexposing it by one and a half stops to two stops to keep the lovely dark clouds in the background. After we've looked around the house and checked out two of the rooms - (the others are too dark) we look at a rubbish tip where all teh household implements have been dumped like the oven etc. Tommi says most of the ironware is German (some is British) I'll have to ask him again! We walk across a bridge made from rail sleepers and find 2 old horse drawn farming implements that the Welsh would have used. One is to cut grass with - the other for 'discing'? (Check with Tommi again). ([always in a hurry - it is getting dark]). We pass an old scrapped Renault [12] and rubbish. It is getting really dark and miraculously the Pentax digital is able to make the images alot lighter, but still with detail.

32 • Thursday 29 June 2006 - ALTURO JONES

2008-02-14T20:50:00.006-02:00

Im up after 9am - a sandwich, 'mate' and I plan to get Luned to phone Ada to explain what has happened! I roar up the road and see the werewolf dog with almost human eyes on the other side of the road. I missed a shot of him last night on the way to mixed choir practice - he was peeing up against a load of cuttings from the garden which had been piled up against the pole which supports the wire basket for rubbish just out next to the end of the road. His eyes were piercing in the dark and he held the same position; cocking his leg for ages - he was like a statue and like a king as well because he totally ignored me as I walked straight past him. He had a fixed, take no nonsense stare. I walked past and fumbled for the digital which Id put in the red and white stripey shopping bag, usually I put it around my neck. By the time Id reached it and had a chance to pull it out, amongst the XPan, 6x7, waterproof jacket, flash, spare batteries and film etc he had trodden and stamped the ground with his rear legs and was away. This time he wasnt going anywhere. He was sitting, I guess outside his owners house, looking left then right, to see if they were returning. I thought I could exemplify the rubbish basket on a pole set-up and also get a shot of him. As it is the digital camera on "Auto Pict" didnt get the depth of field to very far so the background wasnt in focus.

I decide to go nearer as I have to get a shot, close-up, of his eyes they are so piercing. He avoids my attempts to get a view of him straight on and kind of rocks from one leg to another whilst sitting to keep his face out of focus. This is after he has had a good sniff of my bag to see if ther's anything to eat - maybe then he would have posed better!? I zoom in - keeping my distance a bit, just in case, and keep moving to try and get him head on. I move my left hand to get his attention, which works, I miss the shot and flick my fingers around again - I get the shot just as he lets out a big sigh - as if to say "just get a move on will you!" I tell him that I cant believe he just sighed at me and head past Ada Griffiths's house - where I went at 2:30 this morning - I hope she doesnt spy me through the window and chase me up the street!

I go straight to Luneds - it is maybe 10am and, as before, there is tea and toast on the table and Tegais there. She gets up and opens the main door and fly door - I ask if she can help me - I relay the milking adventure to her, then to Fabio who comes in and then to Luned. They cant believe I have gone there so early in the morning and am sure it cant be right. Tegai phones Ada and starts to have hysterics - Luned and Fabio laugh too - Tegai is speaking part Spanish, part Welsh. Luned says: hearing what Tegai is saying that I was right - 2:30m is the correct time but in the afternoon! We all laugh - me especially as I feel like a right wally! Fabio says I should write this in my auto...I say autobiograpy...he says I should of had the tripod he offered me the other day so I could of taken a self-portrait of myself standing there; waiting! I also tell them about taking the picture of the 2 shoes in the mud - how I thought it was interesting they were both different but how they got there and that a white Renault 4 drove past as I was focusing on them and how I put my camera down in embaressment, letting it hang from my neck and how I kind of stared into the mud, half looking for something and half pondering on something. When the car had gone round the bend I took the shot - thinking who cares - they dont know me but no doubt word will get around - Luned, Fabio and Tegai laugh and Luned says Yes - the English are mad. Telling them this has made a difference and they seem to have warmed to me - perhaps it is that I was willing to get up at 2 in the morning and I am taking being in Gaiman so seriously or that Im not so proud I cant laugh at myself.

Did I finish saying how my day ended yesterday? God I really am getting a back-log - maybe Im just waffling on too much - but Im trying to keep it real! I walk back from the cemetery and the top of the hill overlooking Gaiman where I took some panoramic photos, so i can show the people back home what the town looks like! (I remember before I came out remembering what bits looked like that Id seen from Dai Jones TV documentary about Patagonia, filmed in 2002 I think and also bits on the internet). I think its important to show people the overall picture so they aernt lef in any doubt as to what it looks like - Im putting myself in the viewers shoes and wanting to see everything so I understand. I take a back road i to town - the northern road, past a couple of "shanty" looking homes - like the really poor get pushed to the outskirts and take the photo of the shoes. Dogs from all the dwellings come out to meet me in turn - barking and ones back 'bristles' with anxiousness. I continue, pass some huge satellite dishes and on to a huge Dodge truck - I take photos of more vehicles and then go down to photograph the auto spares shop.

There is a dark haired Argentinian girl with totally black eyes who is handing out 'mate' to all the customers [Piti] non-stop in turn and asks me directly if I need serving. I say 'Signor" [Senor] pointing as I need to speak to the Boss. 'Ruben'. She reads the introduction from Luned and hands me the 'mate' - I am taken aback that i am being offered a drink and Im not a local. She answers a question about spares and goes down between the shelves but doesnt appear to look for a part - her back is turned to me and the customers - she puts her hand down her pants and has a really good scratch. The man in front of me isnt looking but Im fascinated - I dont think Id ever see a girl in Britain doing this so openly. I wait and wait and ask the boss eventually if its OK to take pictures he reads the 'intro' from Luned and says Yes. Ci [Si]. He is a Welsh speaker though not much. I show the girl the book who seems to enjoy it and shows him a couple of pictures from it - like Albert. I continue getting 'mate' handed out. I am quiet and patient and wait to get photo opportunities as the man is busy - I dont want to hassle him. The girl is just a bit flirty and she seems like you could have a laugh with her. She leaves the shop for a bit then comes back - customers come in - some European looking, some very Indian looking [Red Indian native]. The boss leaves and hands me 15 pesos - for Cerveza he says - he's buying me a drink. He leaves and I thank him very much! I make a face at the girl to show Im surprised and grateful - for Cerveza she says. I pack up - say thank you and leave!

BRYN CRWYN - rounded hill. BRYN GWYN - white hill.

How many days since I listed how much money Ive been spending? Ive got brain drain! At least one hour in the morning, sometimes during the day and over an hour at night? It's alot to do. I feel I should be doing more photographing than writing but I guess its essential to the whole trip. Im not finding enough of the right people to photograph. If Im just going into shops and photographing the Welsh descendants in there then I cant really expect to get varied and challenging images! It's just going to be smiling faces, looking at the camera with lots of shelves and bright packaging around them. I cant even explain to them not to look at the camera and get on with things. When I point to my eyes and say No "point to eyes and no look at camera but yabber yabber open close hand like muppet mouth opening and closing talk to each other" - they obviously just smile and nod like they know what I mean but as soon as I put the camera to my eye I see them just looking back at me. I should really try and string a sentence together with words from my Spanish dictionary. Whenever I see Luned she reassures me that the sun will be out tomorrow and it will dry up soon [Im hoping the unsurfaced roads out to the chacras will dry soon and become passable so I can go and find farming people to photograph] - but its the winter and not even the coldest month - thats next month!?! Apparently its too muddy to go out to the farms and Im just going to have to wait. I need to get out to farms and take my/ time photographing people. Yesterday I left the auto parts store with the 15 pesos from Ruben - I didnt want to accept it, especially as I dont drink beer (it was for Cerveza).

As far as I can remember I use the internet - head back for something to eat then go to choir practice at 9pm at the music school. It is raining. Women wait in the their cars parked directly on the High Street outside the Music School. It is after 9pm - at least 20 past (Argentine time) beofre anyone turns up. We go in and I sit in the corner, sort my equipment and watch as people ready themselves - lots of banter and joking. I just feel as though it is another room with more of the same people doing the same thing. It is only the 4 photos I take in a row of 3 girls laughing that make it worthwhile. I leave - a man says in English "good-luck". It is 10:30pm. The man in the supermarket is still 'ringing-up' the till - Im not surprised he looks grumpy! I work on the diary when I get back but by midnight I have had enough and decide to sleep rather than stay up for 2:30am when I am meant to go to the milking - HA HA! Luned makes a list this morning: another one kindly for people that I might go and photograph today - I leave after they've given me some tea and a slice of toast. Sandra Day is there - the woman talking to Luned in the shot to do with talking about the dance the night before (taken on Sunday!) I tried to record the conversation but I have since found from emailing Sony from Gaiman that the microphone is not compatible with the Mini Disc Recorder! I emailed Sony back to tell them to pull their fingers out otherwise there's going to be trouble! I was told by the Sony Centre in Colchester that the microphone would be ideal for the Mini-Disc recorder and there is even a picture on the microphone packet that shows it plugged into a mini-disc recorder. Honest to God! Id love still to get voice recordings of the people here but I just need a recorder that works! Today in a nutshell before I fall asleep! Luneds, then zig-zag up the street alongside a stray dog that Fabio has mentioned. He [the dog] attends all the public meetings apparently and is always around when somehting is going on. He runs out into the road to bark at passing pick-ups without any worry at all and seems to have a smile. He's like a red-setter - and he's out to have a laugh. I feel like Im following him.

I walk up the road that leads out of town. I find Pablo and Tommi Evans who both work at the petrol station and also see Ruben there, who gave me the 15 pesos. I take some photos of an old 1928 model 'A' Ford and the two [Tommi & Pablo] next to a 1962 Fiat tractor. They say after Siesta they'll pick me up at 4:30 to take me out to a farm! Fantatsic - my big break! After I say goodbye I go down to Alturo's house - Ive heard he likes to drink and he normally lives with his brother but he's in hospital and not very well. I take a photo of the front of the house and then go round the back. When I was walking past it on my way to the petrol station I noticed a dog in the back yard, who eventually decided to bark at me and a naked plastic dolly in a corner outside facing up against a brick wall. I thought it was kind of strange. I go round the back now - and say loudly "Ola" [Hola!] in the way you'd say "Hell-O-oh". I hear a voice say something - it could be "go away" in Spanish but I dont move. The door opens and then closes, it only opens a bit but I am not directly in front of it so he doesnt see me. I saay "Ola" again and it opens wide, he has a knife in his hand and it looks sharp - his fingers are bleeding slightly in different places. He goes back inside and comes back again without the knife. I say "Gales?" and start my introduction routine. i hand him the Luned paper and start taking photos - he sort of staggered to the door and his reactions are slow so Im not sure if he's always like that or if he's drunk. he says a few words in Welsh and it's OK to photograph. I take a few ad try the 6x7MK1 - it freezes up - this happened in the Autospares yesterday, and up at the petrol station just now. [I know it might seem odd to continue to use the MK1 version of the Pentax 6x7, which was first produced in 1969 - my model must be early 1970's - given that Pentax(UK) have given me a MK2 body for free {sponsored} but I want to continue using it until it really has broken. The MK2 is a back-up and because I havent used it alot Id like to continue with what is customary to me (Ive been using the MK1 for 4 years) also I prefer to use the MK1 because it 'looks' old and this combined with me visibly having problems with it everyday shows me to be quite humble and not a flashy tourist with lots of money - the people I photograph wont know that I dont have enough money to buy expensive cameras myself and that Pentax gave me the MK2 body (I also prefer the MK1 viewfinder tho the MK2; its alot bigger)]. I say "Una momento por favor Signor" - I feel immediately him tiring of this so try to hurry up - I take the battery out of its little compartment and try wiping the contacts with my fingers. I put the battery back in again, without its holder and nothing happens - then all of a sudden the shutter drops back down (the mirror I mean) I frame the shot and take it. Incidentally I saw 'Nia' [Angelica-Pablo Evans wife] up at the petrol station, the one who kissed me on the cheek at Mari's Ty camwy - she's pretty and she seems happy to see me. She sits in the station - Pablo is meant to give her a lift - presumably home...she says Ta-Ta. [She is learning Welsh and also teaches it I think or helps in Ysgol Feithrin...she looks very Spanish but her Father is of Welsh descent]. I leave Altiro's after he says something in Spanish about 'mate' then he mentions "Panad o Dair" (cup of tea in Welsh) I just dont think what he's saying [dont understand what he's saying] my mind has gone - Im exhausted! I think he's practising his Welsh or showing me what he knows but shortly after I realise he was offering me in for a brew! He also asked me, before offering, if I had a 'smoke' on me - a cigarette and I said No. Sorry, but I forgot to say "Pardoneh" or whatever and felt really mean I couldnt offer anything to him so perhaps sub-consciously I thought I shouldn't accept a brew as Ive taken a photo but have nothing to give back! I shake his hand and walk back to the high street.

31 • Wednesday 28 June 2006 - HOSPITALS,CEMETERIES, DOGS & MILK

2008-02-14T20:48:00.002-02:00

...fatal motorbike crash. Although I have to say this one is slightly more rustic - with its corrugated iron roof and faded cross painted onto it. I take 2 shots and walk up the hill to the cemetery to find Tudur Evans's grave. When I ask Luned exactly where the cemetery is she says "Well! The Hospital is at the end of town at the bottom of the hill and when you die you get taken up the hill to the cemetery, naturally!" so matter of fact is was quite un-nerving!

[I was later to attend at least 5 funerals there and I then saw her point; life is gone all too quickly and when you attend as many funerals as she has done then its easy to be casual about it].

I trudge up there, feeling slightly breathless - it's not because Im unfit its just Im really in anticipation of everything that is happening, Im excited about finding Tudur's grave and the fact I have a copy now of a photo of him in 1905, Ive taken a photo of the same house nowadays and now Im going to see the exact spot where he rests!

There is a man on permeanent duty there and he has an office built into the wall of the cemetery grounds. I say "Ola Signor [Hola Senor], Gales" and I point towards the hundreds of graves..."por favor" and he says "Yes" but as an after thought he adds - "Show some respect yes!?!" I know this , even though it was in Spanish.

He mentions Respect and it is fitting.

I find Tudur's grave - first row on the right as Luned described. Im fascinated by how many Welsh people are buried here. Some Russian sounding, some Italian, Spanish, Argentinian and alot of Welsh. I feel like I want to photograph them all and look especially for the ones where it says they originally came from Cymru and whereabouts exactly. I find some and photo them - I also want to photo the big shrine buildings where the occupants have been embalmed in their coffins in rooms. The man who runs it - (Im not sure if he's the actual grave digger because Luned has said he has a Welsh surname but does not speak the language) has walked from the office out into the next cemetery for overspill -

I mean when the first site is full there is another area that can be used. There is a large wooden cross there and he is just checking everything is OK. I ask if he is 'Gales" and he says No. We walk in silence and he points at the sky - talking about the weather. I nod, smile and agree but dont have the words to reply. I feel sorry for everyone who talks to me as the conversation is always one sided. He must have a lonely life and I guess it would have been nice for him to have a laugh and a joke.

Oh blimey its 23:50 on Weds 28 June - Ive got 2 hours and 40 minutes until I have to go milking - dare I put my head down? Im worried that I wont get up! - I doze, my mind wurring away like a machine - thinking about all I have done and all the possibilities that I hope to have while I am here. I get up to go for a pee and as I go next door my mobile phone alarm goes off - at full volume - to wake me up! I cant finish peeing fast enough! Im worried it will wake Lucio and his family up next door - I have a 'Mate' and a sandwich. Small baguette this time , small in diameter - no big ones left, some chopped chorizo sausage, a good dollop of mayo, cheese chunks and a couple of gherkins - I stick a knife into the jar, spear one and put it straight into my mouth). Then Im away - its 2:20am.

I walk to Ada Griffiths who lives just up the road - but up the road a dog - sleeping in its owners doorway of the house sees me and starts barking! 'Great!' I think - it will take me 2 minutes to reach the dog and by this time its started all the other dogs off in the surrounding area. This is ludicrous I think - and slightly dangerous - if anyone sees me at this time they will wonder what the hell I am doing. As I walk past the house a window opens and I expect to get yelled at but instead I hear a sort of 'clump' and glance over my shoulder as the window closes. The dog has shut-up abruptly and is shrinking away. Some one must have given it a slap? I walk up to Ada's house hoping the kitchen light will be on but its dark inside. I give a very light tap [on the door] but silence. I wait. And wait. I re-look at my bit of paper - the one which Ada wrote the time we should meet on. Her writing says 2/0. Maybe it was 2 I was meant to be here? But I offered the time to her yesterday with my fingers and she said No.

I am feeling terrible, the last thing I wanted to do was let them down. I walk down the side of the house to have a look round the back. There is a big black Rottweiller staring back at me but luckily it is on a chain. It looks at me, works out I am 'foe' - after about 5 seconds and then breaks into a full throated bark! Oh my God - this should make them realize I am here, if nothing else! As the dog barks the force of it makes it rear up on its chain and every woof has it standing almost vertical on its back legs. This animal means business - I hope the chain holds. I stand back around the front. Several cars pass slowly and the occupants stare at me - I pretend to be receiving an important text on my mobile. "Dum de dum dum, da de dum...Oh shit!" 2 youths walk past staring too. I give one last tap on the door - if they're awake they'll hear but if Ive got the time wrong I dont want to wake them! I head back at 3:05am - feeling utterly dejected. I am more sorry for them and for wasting their time! I did notice that in the yard to the side front of the house that there were tyre marks - how fresh I dont know but it could have been them pulling out at 2am?

30 • Wednesday 28 June 2006 continued - 'MATE', 'MATE', 'MATE'

2008-02-02T13:33:00.000-02:00

...really happy - everyone seems to be positioned perfectly! I talk to 'Mari' the Welsh teacher girl and she says we should go out for a beer one night. She has to teach boys now - Im amazed by how full-on her work is and that it is non-stop - she doesnt even have time for a Panad! (Coffee/ Tea) She says she is teaching again at 7pm. Conversation class for adults - where she lives - a small cottage next to the school. I tell her that I'll come back at 7pm.

I go to the supermarket just before the bridge and buy a large baguette, tray of cheese, pork and chorizo, yoghurt drink, mayonnaise, gherkins and the salami sausage that later appears to be out of date. Well! the date says so and it stinks! I walk back to the garage and make hot water for 'Mate' after I drink all the Vanilla yoghurt drink - I put together 1/3 of the baguette as a sandwhich and munch it hungrily - I really am starving! It makes a big difference - I check my credit on my mobile - I have £30.33! Charlie must have put 30 quid on - I left her my vodafone card at home! I send her a text to say thanks and no sooner has it gone that the mobile rings! Blimey! talk about being in tune! we talk for about half an hour and then the phone cuts out! I check my balance - it is just 46p!!! [Vodafone are robbing bastards!] We have used 30 quids worth of credit in just half an hour! I finish the sandwhich and make another - it is now quarter to seven and I dont want to be late and disrupt 'Mari's' class.

I walk back across the bridge and to the small cottage. Mari answers and Im invited in - I take my shoes off - she apologizes for the smell - its quite nice = lemon bleach - the cleaners just been here. She shows me the bedroom - an amazing sturdy old iron bedstead, then the living room, toilet and kitchen. Its really smart and very cosey. I say Im worried Im late (its after 7pm) but she says not to worry everyone comes at Argentina time (which is always late!). Rebecca arrives, the nursery school teacher from yesterday, (alot less frantic) and then one other woman. One man turns up - he looks very Welsh - and then Fabio. Im surprised he needs to come but he says he never gets the chance to speak it! "What about with your Mum and Aunt I ask?" No - never - only with Tegai in the museum (where he helps out) when he doesnt want someone to know what he's saying! No different from Wales then!

Its 2:42pm now and my bums freezing! The cafes must be open now surely!? Still I gotta finish yesterday. I get some photos that I feel will do - and everyone leaves - Fabio asks me what Im going to do now? I say Im going in a few minutes as he says "Havent you got somewhere to go now?!" I say I'll check the list his Mum made me but I think he wants me to get out of there as he's secretly 'sweet' on Mari. I say "Nosdda" and so does Mari and we talk about her coming out here on 1st March and how she's finding it - I ask her if Im stopping her making herself a hot drink as she's about to teach yet another group. She says she's fine - she doesnt have many people to talk to English with! I say before the next class comes could I quickly take a picture of the bed - (it looks so comfortable) I try and wipe all thoughts from my head of what it'd be like in that bed with her! Ahem! I take it casually but I guess it must be quite, urhm...well its not everyday someone wants to photograph your bed is it!? The next class comes in - I think its only one girl - the one in the photo from the drawing class - (competition) literally the first photo that I took here - of a local looking girl passing 'Mate' to a friend. She's pretty [Pablo Evans wife; Angelica Evans de Evans]. She gives me a kiss on the cheek and Im quite taken aback, I get the body language from 'Mari' that she is too! Mari says we should go out for a meal and asks if I have her number - Luned has actually written it down for me but I dont realize - she writes it down and the dark haired girl sits down looking at me. I say my "diolch yn fawrs" , nostarghs", "gracias" and "cioas" and say it was good to meet her. I walk back feeling happy and slightly perturbed - here is a Welsh girl who has been here since March with no male company and has shown me her bedroom and wants to go out for a meal - and Charlies on the phone worried that I might have met someone already! I'd better behave myself!

On the way up to the school the first time a small red car with blacked out windows on the side and back toots me and I recognize its the woman who gave me a drink of 'mate' at the gym hall - (I took a photo) when I first arrived - she's got a huge smile on her face! Back at base again been to the bog and I seem to be fairly regular now Im pleased to say (but smells a bit funny!) [doesnt all shit?] got 'mate' on the go and another baguette chock full of chorizo, mayo, gherkin and cheese. I asked about the chorizo in the supermarket this evening and it appears that the date on it 21.06.06 is the date it was wrapped up in its horrible cling film! It seems there is no best before date on the wrapping! You either know when its off as its your own fault for leaving it of if it kills you - well theres no come back 'cos you're not around!

Today - what have I done today? Took a self-portrait as I was about to leave with Luneds "inconspicuous" shopping bag and the 'mate' in my hand for a last quick quick sip before I go out photo hunting. I walk slowly up the road - I doubt I'll get any hassle in this town but if I 'wander' I'm sure to pass better as a local? I look at the way people leave their rubbish out for the bin-man. There is a pole going into the ground and on top sits a wire basket where you put your bin-bag - some are complete cages - others just a wire tray which is meant to stop predators making a mess. I see one dog trying to stand up to the top but all are out of reach - I doubt even a cat could jump that far; only maybe if it were being chased by a pack of dogs. I actually saw a grey cat - like a 'Persian' being chased by 2 dogs coming home yesterday - one dog like a big Collie - the other like an Alsatian - the tail on the Collie going like a helicopter. 360 degrees round and round. When I turned the corner to the garage - I laughed as it had gone across the roof and now along the top of a wall. I thought that was a lucky escape!

I decide to get on with it quickly today and cross to Bryn Gwyn [hardware store - not the area] where Alex Evans is the proprietor. I enter and say "Signor", "Alex Jones?" A lady sitting on some sacks of 'feed' opposite him points at him and says Alex Jones. I show him the bit of paper Luned has done for me. I want to take his photo and show him the book 'Just heard the Cuckoo" - the only proof of my work as a photographer! We roar with laughter at Albert who I say is kown as "Bolud" - porridge belly. He's got a really genuine smile - he talks on in Welsh - knowing I dont really understand but I pick out the odd word. He points to the picture of Bob, Dylan and Will - the first photo I ever took on Anglesey at Coch-Y-Moel and asks if its "Hen?" I remember what "Hen" means and say No but he doesnt believe me! I write it down and he says the date! 1999 slowly out aloud in Welsh to the woman in disbelief: he thinks it is of a much older time. he asks if it is "Inglasis?" No! No! I say "Gales" - Cymru, Ynys Mon, Sir Fon but he hasnt heard of Ynys Mon - I draw a map of Wales and Anglesey and 'Alba' (Scotland) and then he understands. He seems really happy. He's been busy pouring himself a 'mate' all the while - the kettle sitting on top of the gas radiator. The woman has a stick and walks out of the front of the shop and takes me to Ada - the milking woman who Luned introduced me to the first day I was here (saturday) - Ada has a mouthful it is clear to see, bless her! Im invited into her house - an old tea house and say my thank you's to the Bryn Gwyn woman.

Ada is just fantastic - in a headscarf with a knot and I cant believe that finally Im facing the sort of subject matter Ive come all this way to find! I respectfully wipe my shoes on the cardboard provided on the floor - as a matter of course I also wipe my feet on the concrete outside - Ive seen other people doing this and it seems to be a mark of respect. Im offered a seat - Ada sits down first and I show her Luneds introduction unsure whether she remembers me form saturday?! I motion at the camera (digital) round my neck, ever at the ready, and she makes a face as if to say 'She's in a state'. I say No! "Moa bien" (very good in Spanish) "da iown" (very good in Welsh). She doesnt worry too much then and I get out the 6x7 - I take a reading and fire 2 off I think (i'll know when Ive developed them!) She looks directly at the camera and it 'feels' briliant! (you always know when its going to be good you can feel it in the shutter release button!) It doesnt matter if it 'could' be contrived! its happening and its ife and if I got her to get on with something, which would be hard and time consuming to communicate to her then it would be contrived as it wouldnt be natural. I take some shots with the digital and the last one which I under expose by 1 stop is just fantastic! I ask her about the milking "Manana?" and make the "Bwch" "Bwch" milking gestures which she copies and finds it quite amusing! She points at the clock for the time in the morning and says it but Im not sure. I get a pen and draw a clock face with 12 at the top, 6 at the bottom, 3 on the right and 9 on the left and motion for her to draw the hands in. She either doesnt know how to or doesnt understand - I write 3am down - thinking SHIT! this is early! She slashes 2 & 3 o'clock with her pen 2/3 - I realize 2:30am. OK! I say the time in English pointing to the time Ive written - she nods and says "Manana". She makes a hands together undet the head 'sleeping' gesture and says Luned? She is asking where Im satying? I say Luned son - not Fabio and make a big cossing of hands gesture but...I point in the direction of where Im staying. "Si, Si". She understands - going from Welsh to Spanish - I leave - it is arranged. "manana" she says once more - I say Diolch yn fawr - Hwyl and Im away again.

FANTASTIC! I am really happy! I walk across the bridge past the stinky factory where Lucio's wife works. What a pong! I realize I need a pen and pause outside the supermarket I used last night - thinking that the Chorizo sausage is dodgey I decide not to use this shop and the manager at the till looks grumpy. I stop at the open window next to the "Remises' taxi office where I buy 'Blok' from and ask for a 'Pluma' - the man gets one out of a multipack box on the all and says "Uno" meaning one pesos = about 15p for a biro. "Si , gracias". I walk down the street looking at Luneds map - watching for a cafe - I need to have a caffeine fix and finish writing my diary from yesetrday. I tried one [a cafe] and the lady looks at her watch and says - Lord knows what? motions towards the door and points down the street. I try the Panaderia - the guy points towards next door - the "Luna Bar" - I read the notice on the door 10-2 & 4-8. I cant work [out] if this is when its closed or open. Since its dead and only 1pm. I write my journal on the window sill for a bit but its raining and the page is getting wet. I walk down the street and decide a Coke is the only way Im going to get caffeine. Dont know about getting my head under cover! I see Tegai, I remember earlier drive past in her renault 4 and she looks like she's not really driving at all. I wave and she waves back very gently. She's 80. Or as Fabio put it: she's 79 but she's just had another birthday! :) I by the Coke as described before and head to the 'Arabe' park or Plaza to write - I guess a good hour or 2 go by and I walk stiffly up to the Hospital. It reminds me of a a hospital I went to in Golspie in 1993 in Sutherland, Scotland following a near...

29 • Wednesday 28 June 2006 - BURNT TOAST

2008-02-02T13:05:00.000-02:00

9:49am - 28 June 2006. Wednesday I think?

Ive showered and boiled the kettle for my first Yerba Mate of the day [you're not suppossed to boil the water as it 'burns' the taste of the Yerba, but I boil the water in case it is bad and then let it cool down]. I only use 2/3 of the baguette I bought yesterday so I decide to finish it off for breakfast - before it goes totally rock-hard. Sergio on the coach coming down here asked did I know 'Sting'? Yes I said. He said he is thinking of the song: "Englishman in New York". He points at me and says "Englishman in Patagonia!" We both laugh. I 'squidge' a load of Hellman's light lemon mayonnaise from a plastic sachet - a 238g sachet! onto the sliced open baguette and load it up with chunks of cheese and pork that I bought as a 'variety' pack from the supermarket yesterday. I also bought another salami chirozo [chorizo] type dried sausage but it is well off - I notice the "best before" date is 21.06.06 - a day before I came out! I put the cling film back around it and and wonder if it will make any random dogs day on my way into town.? Trying to remember yesterday - I was too tired again last night to carry on writing.

Luned had invited me for lunch yesterday after I got a lift back with them, her and Tegai in the old Renault 4. At the Post Office I said to Tegai that i wanted to talk with Luned and outside the bank she said what about? So Im invited back to the house and once inside Im invited for lunch."There isnt enough to go round" - Fabio says - Luned says there isnt much but it will have to do - I say " I dont want to put them out - What do you mean Fabio asks " Take us off our track?" "Yes" I say. No dont worry you wont be. Fabio goes to boil the 'pasta' - like spaghetti but not round. Flat - more like noodles [videos]. We have peas and a tin of tomatoes with it. I am offered Parmesan cheese from a factory plastic bag - (The cheese is sold this way - the same as my yoghurt drink; it must be easier/cheaper). We talk and I mention that a man called Robin James is planning to sail fom Amlwch port to Patagonia - starting in October. They are interested so I keep the conversation going - all the while Luned is on the portable phone at the table, almost non-stop. Im not sure if she is phoning on my behalf, gossiping or finding out important information for the benefit of the town. I get peoples impressions, whilst she is talking with them - that they humour her - as though they know she is self-important but put up with her out of politeness. [Writing this now; on the 1st February 2008 I can say that Luned has helped me alot and is a good friend...my writing was of an intial impression of a stranger - in case she reads this! :) ] She seems to command respect. I say Albert is from Amlwch Port - "bolluud" - I try to say it so they understand it in Welsh (it means porridge belly) this is actually Alberts real nickname in Amlwch Port and he is known as "Bol" for short. I think Luned must think I am making fun of him so she says "Bol-Curu" (beer belly) and I feel this is aimed at me. Shortly after I tell her that I dont drink - which I think surprises her - she probably thinks - how are you such a fat bastard then?

I am waiting outside the 'Luna' Cafe for a coffee. Ive only had one since I got here and 'Mate' doesnt quite hit the mark. And the one I had was a 'medium' - slightly larger than a thimble full at Andres restaurant (the place he works at). Ive got to catch up on yesterday - I just need a coffee and a table to sit at. Anyway - 2 more things Luned says to me yesterday: do I have cleaning things for where Im staying - at Lucio's, her eldest sons? She says that " I do know that they're not going to clean for me?!" I say I know and that i wouldnt expect them to! Im slightly perplexed though - what does she mean tidy up? I have barely been there - Im out all day walking the streets! There is a bit of mud on the tiled floor but to be fair its a bog outside and I do take my shoes off before I come in the garage [if its not obvious or I havent said already Luned has allowed me to stay i her sons garage...it has a bedroom, a bathroom and a cooker in the same room as where the car sits]. (Lucio - the son, in late forties, comes through the door when I get back, in the evening and drops a door matt on the floor - inside - as if to say you're making the floor dirty - make this messy instead! I reassure him Im going to buy many cleaning products, for the floor, sink and toilet!

All I want t do is get a coffee! I reckon if its closed (the cafe) the library should be open - but I cant find it on my map - I got from the tourist information yesterday! Everyone appears to be asleep still - they dont drink enough coffee to keep awake - its Catch 22 - cafes closed = no one drinks coffee = everyone sleeps = cafe stays closed!? I follow a dog following its nose down the street - Im on the pavement - its on the road stopping at every wheel and bumper to check out the smells. I stop at Lynnyrd Skynnyrd shop to buy a bottle of Pepsi and a bar of chocolate. 1:30 for the Pepsi, 1:00 for the chocolate. Need to get a 'kid' caffeine fix as there's nowhere that does 'adult' caffeine fix. Its pissing it down and I walk off the high street and up the side of Plaza Colectividad Arabe where there are tall Eucalyptus trees. I sit on the short park wall - its better than nothing. So Luned also says yesterday that I shouldnt leave my cameras on the floor of her house - it is dirty! Well she is making enough fuss about keeping her sons floor tidy - hers shouldnt be that bad!? Thats something Ive noticed about the English, she says - they always leave everything on the floor! her table is covered in books, jam, bread, crumbs, paper etc so there is nowhere to put anything without potentially causing havoc and knocking something off! Also experience has taught me that camera equipment doesnt have anywhere to fall and break if its already at ground level but Im tired and dont feel I should be petty enough to explain this - I feel that her comment is typical of the Welsh and its ironic that I have travelled maybe over 10,000 miles and its still the same attitude - but why should I expect anything different?! [I think this writing is showing signs of alot of tiredness, stress and obsessing over stuff that isnt really important...nether the less observations though!]

Luned types a note in Spanish out for me on the computer - an introduction to make it easier or me to ask people for their photograph. I ask permission to photograph the house outside - "what?" "with all that junk?" says Tegai but I say it is great! I go outside and put the 6x7 55mm lens on the digital body. The converter (6x7 lens - 35mm body) makes the 55mm medium format wide angle lens more like a telephoto and when I try to take a shot the camera wont work at all! I knew that the camera would lose its metering functions but I thought at least the shutter release would work! I go back inside - put the digital lens back on and go to Tegais part of the house - towards the toilet. I went to the bog before and smelt toast and as I pass her cooker I see that she must have burnt 4 slices at breakfast time. There is a kind of a hotplate that goes on top of the gas ring to put bread on - it looks like a great still life and I wish I had a 5x4 camera to take a detailed close-up! Luned is on the computer/Fabio is watching the World Cup and Tegai is still finishing her finely chopped cabbage. I sneak a a shot of the cooker - Im chuffed - I love it: the way the toast has been left there - it looks set-up but I havent touched it at all! go into the bathroom and take a shot of the bath, shower curtain and sink - the tiles and (black and white) sink pedestal reminds me of something from Turkey again- old colonial - perhaps 1920's?! I hear Luned come through to Tegai's side of the house - the living room and I flush the toilet - pretending that Ive used it again! I come out ad put on a face - I hope - that says that I havent just taken 2 photos in the house without their permission that they might perhaps construe as being very rude.

Luned then gives me the typed Espanol introduction and a chocolate and I go to leave - she saus blaise'ly that 2 Welsh girls were here last night, one from Caernarfon and one from Pwllhelli - they had come from Buenos Aires to gaiman for a night and then on to esquel today (Tuesday)! I aid I would really liked to have met them! Oh well Luned says - she forgot they were coming! After Esquel they were going to Chile and then New Zealand. That reminds me - Is till havent looked to see which way the water goes down the plug hole! [oppossite direction to Northern Hemisphere] I leave and take a photo looking dow the hill from Luneds house - toward the High street. I turn left at the bottom immediately past the YPF petrol station, that was Argentinian Fabio tells me but is now owned by a Spanish comapny and stop to take a photo of the same house as the one I took a copy of up in Luneds. Tudur Evans leaving for Wales. It seems smaller! I walk up to the tourist centre first stopping at some sort of Government Municipal bulding where a woman is screaming upstairs - perhaps she spilt her 'Tippex'?! Another woman opens the donstairs window and I ask "Tourismo"? She waves up the road and closes the window. The road leads up into the hills and i wonder if she's having a laugh? Who would put a tourist office all the way out of town? I walk on further to a very new building tucked away to the left, in front of an entrance to a very dark tunnel. I go inside, as I enter the room a girl is sat facing a boy at a desk - it looks a bit 'riske' and she jumps up faster than lightning. Immediately she courteously gives me a seat - she must be 16 and ask me to sit down. She gets out a map and explains where everything is. I havent even said what want yet! She circles places I might be interested in with a biro and talks in Spanish and broken English. When she starts telling me about the tea-rooms I have a flash back of stewed tea and interject with my new bit of paper from Luned - I want to see their reaction. The girl reads it slowly - then hands it to the boy who efficientley marches over to read it - cant make head nor tail of it and hands it to the girl unimpressed I know that I have to be at Camwy school soon to take photos of the Welsh classes and can see that the tunnel would make a good short cut! I point to the school ad he tunnel and say "Si?" She shakes her head and makes out that it is really dark. I walk out like feeling like an idiot and walk to the tunnel entrance (I feel stupid for showing them Luneds introduction as it had no real bearing on my visit to there). It is really muddy and dark - I walk in about 3 yards and stop, thinking this is stupid. I walk back deciding to get some chocolate and take a photo of what looks like an old cafe with a Coca-Cola sign outside it. I like the look of it.

I walk back and buy another 'Blok' -I walk up to the school and Fabio drives past in the Renault 4 with his brothers 3 daughters in it - he is taking them to Welsh classes. He does a U-turn and parks up. I take a quick shot as the 3 girls go inside - Fabio holds back, smiling as he doesnt want to be included. I follow and am aware that it is a very old building with creaky wooden floor boards. The Welsh teacher rushes up to me with her hand outstretched and says "Anthony Gold" I say no "Ed Gold" - she apologizes and says sorry - I say "Wow! You speak English" and she Yes - she's on secondment here for 10 months [Mari Phillips] - has been living in Cardiff, working as a teacher but originally came from Bangor. We have a quick chat and she starts teaching - she sings with an electronic organ - like Rebecca yesterday but she is much calmer. A man eventually comes in and asks to use the TV in the room which is hidden in an old cupboard. We change classrooms and I continue taking photo's - Im particularly happy with one where they're talking about different actons in welsh and then they have to jump up and spin round then sit down ["one finger, one thumb..."] They do it several times and I reckon it will make a good shot!I stand on a chair and have one chance before he game finishes - 'click' and they sit down - finished. Ive over-exposed it by 1 stop but Im... {Mari Phillips, Born in Bangor, lived in Cardiff since 1994. Here since March 1st 2006 as a Welsh teacher in Gaiman and Dolavon}

28 • Tuesday 27 June 2006 continued - BAR AVENIDA

2008-02-01T10:19:00.000-02:00

The kids get face-paint too - they're wearing Welsh dress - like a uniform, the girls with frilly dresses and the boys with tartan ties. They look quite Victorian - buttoning up the bank they must be a job to get into and I think of kids back in the UK who would just wear casual scruffy clothing! The face paint - two lines are applied with fingers by the assistants to each cheek - even one of the helpers gets a daub. They are blue and white lines which I get the idea of - blue and white represents the Argentina flag on the face as well as their clothing which represents Wales. ( A sort of traditional Tartan - which cold really be Scottish!) Then red noses are applied - Oh! They've been on already - they're on (the assistants put them on_. Then they're off - the kids dont seem to like them...the kids are taken to the small tables and have to stick red paper to a picture of a clowns face. The hardest part is not to stick themselves to anything else - there isnt anytime to work on the rest of the face - just the nose has 4 or 5 red squares stuck to it. Their names are written at the corner of the page and then they're off again to the play room next door. "Tecwyn the Tractor" is played and they're very proud to tell me that Bryn Fon - the man who sings it has been from Wales to this very play-group! There's no way i can squeeze into the play area - as the kids seem to be doing a Wall-Of-Death with plastic toys - too much banging and crashing! I take Rebeccas email address and leave my website details. Diolch yn fawr, Hwyl and Im back out on the street. Im totally drained. I wonder how many more hours Rebecca's whirlwind goes on for?

I head up the street to the internet cafe, cross the high-street carefully, through the mud which the rain has brought and enter. Its a different man behind the bar and he lets me take a kiosk. I check my loose change carefully for random Euros and pay him 3 pesos for one hour. I email Sony about my recording problems and read my emails - one from Charlie, she's taking time out to write whilst teaching at school. (Had one from Pedr [McMullen] the day before which said he's on his way out !) 'way out' meaning not long to live! After the internet I have to get something to drink! I go to one of the many food shops down the street and go in. I buy grub and rather go for mint tea (there is only 1 jar of coffee on the shelf) I point to the womans 'Mate' at the till and ask where is the tea that goes in the bowl thing? There are huge bags of it on the shelf and I go for the smaller one: a half kilo bag. I enquire where can I buy the actual bowl to drink it from? The lady points down the street. I say where - she just points - OK - I'll walk till Ive found one!

It's 9am now and half-light, the street-lamps are still on and I pour another half-carton of cornflakes. Gotta hurry now as I want to get a new days worth of experiences in. I go down and then across the street to a hardware store. I eventually 'suss' out how to find what I want and after much smiling and toing and froing of different merchandise I find what Im after. I pay - but before this there is a tiny puppy wrapped in a sweat-shirt in a young girls arms. I ask "Signora" "click-click" por favor. She's embaressed but its OK - I go ahead and take 2. I think its kinda sweet when you can bring your puppy shopping down to the local hardware store! [Vivian's].

I leave and head back home but decide to visit the lady (Welsh lady) in the bar on the corner beside the front doors and talk to the woman next to the gas heater. There are only about 4 tables in a beautiful vast room and 2 are occupied. I ask if she is "Gales?" and she looks at me blankly. "Gales" "Iown" I say. "Iown" she says very quietly. She looks really amazed/dismayed at me. I feel like a bull in a china shop. I cant go quiet now as I have to continue trying to communicate so that I can take her photo.

The room is silent, 2 tables with 2 men on each dont say anything. I say - I damn well try to say 'Ynys Mon' - exposition - photo -foto. Por favor. She looks embaressed and slightly put-out. A huge door - up to the ceiling - a very high ceiling, opens and 2 boys peer around it giggling they talk to their 'Nain' (Grandma) in Welsh. They come out - both stand behind the huge bar very close together, looking at me - curious then rush back through the large door - no time for a shot! Back to the lady - I get my camera from my bag by the door - the XPan and take a meter reading - the lady tenses, waiting for me to take a picture but I turn around to go and 'fish' my 6x7 from soewhere out of the bottom of the vacuum bag [the vacuum bag is made my Snugpak; one of my sponsors and is meant to keep clothes or belongings dry and watertight]. I go back to her and take her a foil bag of Glengetie tea - she is totally bemused now - I take the box and point to it - "Gales Te" I say - she takes it but it makes no difference - blank expression.

Right I think Id better get on quick. I feel like I'm slowly sinking in quicksand! I set the shot up of her - next to the gas heater - its beautiful, I dont feel that the heater is really necessary - its stiflingly hot - in UK we wouldnt ever have it this hot - maybe we're just not used to it. ts really cosey and I feel as though Im really in an 1800's bar! (well I a of course! but it hasnt changed at all!) I have to go back to my bag again to get the flash - everyone is watching me and they must think Im mad - back and forwards - but this is what happens when you cant speak the language! I was in a hurry to show her my camera and take it from the bag. If I had a proper 'soft' camera bag it would be OK - everything would be easily to hand but i dont want to draw attention to myself on the street! (with a posh looking bag). I take with a flash as the XPan meter is is still saying that 3200ASA isnt 'fast' enough for this room - which I find hard to believe!!! I dont use the digital. This room and the lady deserve much more! [I think I meant to say that I should have taken better photographs!]

Large expanses of wooden floor boards, big walls, long bar and high ceiling - I love it! I reminds me of the British Embassy in Istanbul! One man - with a beret - looks grumpy as hell - and I ask if it is OK to photograph him? he says No! but the man next to him is obliging and says "Nine, Nine" - maybe he is German and saying 'No' too. Then I realize he is telling me that his grandmother "Nain" was Welsh. He is totally blottoed though and I cant make any more sense of what he's trying to say. I turn my attention back to the woman and smile and saying "Diolch" and "Gracias". I pack up but not before the beret man has got up to leave when I start to question his drunk friend about his Welsh ancestry. He takes the drunk friend with him - maybe he's in a bad mood (even more) as he suspects I took a sneaky picture of him - which I did from across the room from the bar. I pack up - say Gracias and 'Ciao' and flee. Oh dear! At least Im trying though!

I go back to the garage. I eat all the sausage and drink a 'plastic bag' of yoghurt drink. Different I think! How are you suppossed to make it stand when you've poured yourself a glass? I rest it against the wall on top of the sink and it lollops over like a drunk sack of potatoes. Without a fridge I decide to drink it all and not risk it falling over. The last bit I hold the bag to my mouth and swallow from the corner I cut off with the knife. Luneds eldest sn comes in and shortly after his Arabian wife. They ask me if I need anything and if all is OK. Yes! Im very happy!! He has a note from Luned to say hope Im OK and ask if I need anything. She has also made an exgtensive list of Welsh speakers in town - both sides of A4 sheet. Im made up! but how am I going to find them? We chat for a bit - there is a thin stream of very tiny red ants walking in from the outside door to under the cooker. Luneds son gets a witches broom and sweeps them out of the door. He says Fabio - his younger brother needs the car tomorrow and he will have to move the Renault out. He pretends to cry. Its funny but I dont understand why he's upset. Is it because it will get dirty? or he cant be bothered to move all the stuff or Fabio isnt such a good driver? I retire [cant read that hand-written word] and his wife says "until tomorrow then" - Im not sure Im hearig right and ask her to repeat. It is sweet, as she doesnt know much English but it sounds so old fashioned.

I write a bit more but soon fall asleep. 0:89 = Hamlet chocolate. 0:50 = 5 x Envelopes. Par Avion. August 1905: on the back of Pastors House - Tudur Evans leaving for Wales to go to college - August 1905 (man with bag) [Ruth Salomon and Lucio Gonzalez Roberts - I find their names on an old envelope].
I have a banana and a second helping of cornflakes in the apple carton wolfed down with the steak knife. Im an open mouthed cuckoo in the nest. OK - so I walk t the supermarket and look for postcards - no luck so I by a 'Hamlet' - another chocolate bar. I leave and cross the road to the post office - I ask for postcards - I look the name up in my phrase book and they think it is something to do with football - they say have to go to Trelew! [the next town 18kms away]. I ask for paper to write on, then card, then envelopes - the boy behind the counter understands eventually and takes me to a shop - a very old shop - it reminds me of one in Bethesda [North Wales, UK] I buy 5 "par avion" envelopes for 50 cents from aman who has Welsh connections [Ririd Williams] and take his photo - he writes down his details and then tells me to go - he isnt that friendly.

I go back to the Post Office and write letters to 5 friends - Nicola Gibson first, then Will Williams, Owie Jones, Delyth Gordon and Gwyneth Roberts. It takes a while. I look at the clock on the wall - it says 1pm - the time they [Post office] close. I ask the boy and he says No! he turns the hands back manually by himself to about ten to twelve and the puts the hands back to 1pm. I dont understand until I realize that the clock is broken and it must be a joke in the Post Office...that maybe they wish it was always 1pm! Anyway - he's shown me that I have an hour and ten minutes left. I finish writing and hand the envelopes over - the boy stamps them and thats it, done - hopefully by the time I get back in 3 and a half weeks they should have arrived! There is a man I take a photo of in the Post Office whoe doesnt seem greatly amused by anything and I find out that he is Welsh speaking. He says that I was in the school yesterday and that his daughter teaches in the same type of school in Trelew. He said he has friends in Moelfre on Anglesey and he was there in 2003 [Benito (Roberto) Jones]. I take his photo and want to get his name but he clearly isnt interested!

Tegai - Luneds sister comes in and asks me if Im OK - she says the woman in front of her speaks a bit of Welsh so I get a shot of her talking to Tegai. hang around hoping to find out more details from the man about his Moelfre friends but he's getting hassled by some postal problem. I leave with a "gracias" - I think I'll go back to the supermarket to get some serious grub - but I hear an "Edddd!" kind of shout that I might hear if I was crossing the street in Colchester. "Eddd Gold!" It is Luned and Tegai coming out from the bank. I get invited into the bank and Luned introduces me to a man who runs a 'parts' shop for cars (he is Welsh speaking). Funnily enough it is the shop I went into when I very first arrived here which has the end of a yellow car sticking out of the front of the shop, above the door. I shake hands but he doesn't really have the time/ not interested in talking [Ruben 'Lechuga' Rogers - my girlfriends Dad!] - Luned introduces me to the woman behind the counter [Daniella Thomas] whose Father is Welsh speaking and runs a farm outside of town. I shake her hand - it is time to go then.

I follow Luned out ot the Renault 4 where Tegai is waiting. We drive back to Luneds and I take 2 photos from the back seat - to show the road in front of us and their hairdo's - priceless. They are both almost Victorian. We go in and I am told I can sit down - Luned and Tegai dissapear. I am left to sit and wonder and pick up a b/w print on the table - it is of Welsh men outside the Pastors house directly below Luneds house - taken just before Tudur Evans? was due to sail to Wales to train to be a pastor. I study it and Luned comes back - I ask her about it and ask permission to photograph it. Tegai goes to make a salad = chopped up cabbage with an olive oil dressing. She does it very finely - I remark at lunch that she would make a good 'coleslaw' - Im surprised they've never heard of it - I describe it and explain it sometimes gets mixed up with coldsore! Uhm! on the side of your mouth. Fabio says Im speaking too fast and my English isnt very good! I say coleslaw is chopped up cabbage, carrot & raisins. Fabio asks what raisins are and his mother says sultanas. I say I think coleslaw is originally Polish. Oh! and I mention that coleslaw has mayonnaise in it. With that Luned reaches behind her and pulls a jar of Hellmans mayonnaise out from a cupboard and plonks it down on the table. I dont know why but that Welsh thing is coming back again - a chip on the shoulder. I feel like Luned has put the mayonnaise there because she somehow feels that perhaps I think they aernt generous enough or Im complaining. I put a good teaspoon dollop of mayo on my plate and realize that I dont have alot of cabbage left. I end up eating more mayo than cabbage and Fabio remarks that he's surprised I can eat so much of it by itself. I let go a bit - let go of holding my manners right up ( I feel I have to put on a bit of a front) and say blimey I could eat a whole jar of it by itself. I get the feeling Luned isnt too impressed; the mayo gets put back in the cupboard quickly.

27 • Tuesday 27 June 2006 - YSGOL FEITHRYN

2008-01-30T19:48:00.000-02:00

OK its 7:24am on 27 June 2006.

I really had to get my head down last night as I was knackered again. Asleep before 11pm which is like 2 / 3am in Britain? Feeling more adjusted but not sure if Im eating enough!? Woke up in night and had to go to the bog - had the shits slightly - might have been from the whole salami sausage I ate last night - or the Yerba Mate tea. Aagh! the 'Mate' - I havent had a chance to say i bought my own 'bowl' - set-up fro drinking it from! Im just heating some water now on a gas cooker in the garage for it.

OK - yesterday. I walk back eating my chocolate bar 'Blok' - and head back toward the bridge. The chocolate is gone too quickly - I'll get some more later. I go back to my digs just to get my booklet of 'exhibition photos' [Just heard the Cuckoo] - to show Rebecca and some Glengettie teabags for her. I also sit down and review my photos of the pizza being made and have a look at all the others. I know that the digital shots dont look anywhere near as good as the 6x7 but because the digital 2.5 inch LCD screen on the back of the camera is my intial impression of my work I feel quite a bit worried! [I had never used digital for my photography before I came out to Patagonia; I'd solely used black & white film and medium format cameras...the first photo I took with this camera was of Charlie in the bath on the morning that I flew!] I quite like the colours and feel a traitor to y black and white work. I can use a digital filter built into the camera which turns each photo into b/w temporarily. I check the pizza shots out - I guess I should be happy with them; after all I am here in Patagonia! My long awaited dream! If nothing else it is proof that I have been here but I have to remember I am taking these for an exhibition and a big one at that so I feel the pressure now! I know in my mind what images I am after and they are here for the taking - but only if I can communicate with the people and get closer to them! I put the teabags and booklet into my Snugpak waterproof vacuum bag and head back out.

The play group has just started and I open the door and let myself in. Rebecca greets me in Welsh and I say 'Iown' and smile. She has a really thin assistant who is Mum to one of the kids in the group and she asks me in very small broken English why I want to take the photos - I try to explain about the exhibition and show her the booklet - she takes it o Rebecca who doesnt speak any English at all and explains. Rebecca seems to like the photos and I take her the box of Glengettie tea and pull one of the 4 foil packets out of it and hand it over to her: showing her the box - where it came from she exclaims "Glengettieeeee!" Oh! Glengettieee? and holds it to her chest. Diolch yn fawr! She goes to put it next door with her bag. OK - we et started - I pull at my 3 cameras from the vacuum sack and take a meter reading.

Rebecca gets started like a whirlwind - "Narvo Plant!" "Narvo!" She busies around and gets the children in a semi-circle around her - she puts an electronic organ on the floor and starts to sing - getting the kids to clap their hands. Argentinian Mum looks on in puzzlement as her child struggles to understand what is going on - I am struggling to understand what is going on and I wonder why an Argentine Mum would want her child to speak Welsh as well as Spanish. From what Ive seen it wont exactly double their career prospects. I havent heard anyone speaking Welsh openly on the street and really it has been when Ive prompted Luned to talk with her friend about the dinner dance - I took a photo and at the nursery school now. Rebecca must be on 'speed' I think - she jumps up and down, claps like mad, plays her 'bontempi' organ and shoves back any child to their seat that gets too near to her performance. All of a sudden an umbrella comes out and each child has a go holding it. One little girl seems quite attached to it and tries to take it back when it is someone elses go but almost gets a slap from the one holding it. The umbrella disappears as quickly as it came out and we are on to finger puppets next - most come off [the fingers] and the kids scrabble to pick them off the floor, one girl (in photo) just sits and stares at me - as if to say - "Why bother?" They do a song and Rebecca seems to be the only one really enjoying herself! Next red noses go on and home-made paper hats with a few coloured streamers - one child gets a metallic purple hat I think?

(I've just made myself a "Mate" but its gone cold already - I begin to realize the tradition of always keeping a kettle of hot water close by - like on top of a gas heater so you can top-up. But the container for the 'herb' is so small - it is meant to be drunk quickly, topped up then passed on - it is really a social drink). I can hear alot of traffic moving outside now - horns tooting and the sound of big V8 pickups thundering along. One along time earlier was really flying! They're not too big on silencing here and every vehicle I have seen - apart from a brand new-ish Toyota Hilux (covered in mud) doesnt have any silencing whatsoever. Even little Fiats have had something done to them so they sound more meaty and I have to look - a double take - to see if they might have a bigger engine in. I can see on Tegai's Renault 4 the other day that there is no silencing on it - just an exhaust that exits the underside of the body - like a big old truck's. Maybe when the original silencer rots and falls off they cant afford/ be bothered to replace it so just keep it simple with a bit of 'straight-through' pipe? You have to laugh seeing a lady like Tegai, (with her wrinkled old face) driving along in something that sounds like a hot-rod!

It is 8:15am now and still pitch black and totally pissing it down again - not great tent weather! Ive given up on the 'Mate' for now and am on cornflakes. There isnt a cooking utensil to be seen - only a mug - which is tiny - so I 'saw' up an apple juice carton I bought yesterday and finished. I use a serrated steak knife which has Luneds name sellotaped to the handle. I pour cornflakes into the carton and semi-skimmed UHT milk and go back to sit on my bed. There is no spoon so push the flakes into my mouth with the tip of the knife and drink the milk - and of course 'nick' the corner of my mouth immediately Never mind - Im ravenous and continue. Getting near the bottom of the carton and unable to properly reach the remaining soggy cereal I continue with this.

Ive got a back-log of memories from yesterday that I need to get down as I need to get back out there! I use the 6x7 and digital SLR for the playgroup - getting "that feeling" when I think Ive got some good shots with the 6x7 - because of course you're unable to tell what you've got until you develop it - for really spontaneous shots though I keep going back to the digital. It is a bad habit! My fear is that my film has been damaged by the airport X-Ray machines and I wont be getting any images - so Im backing up with the *ist DL2! Im metering with the XPan and setting it at 3200ASA but all the rooms Im in seem to be so dark - Im getting 1/30th at f4 everywhere - thats the limit i can work on without getting camera shake [with the 6x7]. Im having to use flash with the 6x7 because it is so dark (Im questioning the XPan meter now) and this defeats the object of using 3200ASA = no flash - get the good shadows and blacks. Oh Well! I'll just have to wait and see - Ive been doing this so long now - I know what to expect - if the film hasnt been written off.

26 • Monday 26 June 2006 continued - PIZZA

2008-01-30T17:28:00.000-02:00

That battery went flat quick! But I did buy it off the market in Colchester! Ive put this new one in and Ive got one more just in case. Inspired! I prefer the MK1 body because you can see more through the viewfinder and in my mind I think it helps me to compose the shot better - it is as though I am sticking my head through a cinema screen and am actually in the picture myself.

It's 2:08pm - and Im in the Pizza restaurant - I think maybe Im a bit late? It looks like lunch is over, 2 tables out of the 5 have crumbs everywhere but Im pleased to see that Italy are on today in the World Cup so I feel right at home! They're playing Australia and it looks like they've won. Im the only one in here and its quite relaxing. The owner says that he has got to prepare the table and I close the door behind me and stand with my back up against it. He pulls the tables apart and really takes his time getting rid of the crumbs, puts the two table cloths back over the top, in a diamond shape and pulls out a chair for me. Its quite simple - I say "No Espanol" - "Gales?" [meaning does he speak Welsh or is he of Welsh descent] He says "No". I say "OK!" "Pizza?" He says "Si" and rabbits on in Spanish for half a minute. I say "Gracias". He asks me what Id like to drink - 'Aqua' - I say - I learnt that one in the shop last night! "Gas or No Gas" - I ask for "Gas por favor". I get a 500ml bottle of spring water: "Eco" - de los Andes. Gasificada.

I order the No.4 pizza "Especial Completa" - a whole one! I'm starving! The man goes behind the bar to the next room, the door open and I soon hear him humming away happily to himself - it sounds almost like opera or a soundtrack to a black and white John Mills film. Obviuosly he's making a pizza from fresh - we're not in consumer lead superficiality Britain here - I can smell the 'base' baking, I come to the door with the 6x7 and XPan and get his attention. His kitchen is excellent and he has a very modest home-made baking oven. He looks worried, not really happy that I want to take a photo of his kitchen and him working modestly. I explain as best I can that I am from "Gales" and I have an exhibition. I make a square with my fingers and push them onto the wall, then again further down, the again = "an exposition". Now he understands. I meter with the XPan and use the 6x7. I feel I am still too far away from the subject and need to get closer but I am concerned about over-stepping the mark. I feel I am pushing my luck and possibly it is quite rude of me.

He offers to take a photo of me and we go into the restaurant - he wants to take a photo of me with the Argentine flag [thats on the wall of the restaurant]. I hand him the 6x7 and explain that he has to twist the lens to focus it. At this point he remembers the pizza and goes running back. I decide the digital SLR will be easier for him to use. He comes back and then I have to explain about pressing the shutter release half-way down to focus it. He tries twice and each time I come back and explain with my fingers close together that he has to press the button down just a little and then "click!". H etakes it OK. I am in the distance but its great! I show him the result and then the ones of him. I say "Moi Bien" - very good - I am really happy with them. He continues to prepare the pizza so I come back with the digital and ask if OK again: "Senor, Por Favor". He says Yes and when done "Voila!" he gestures with hands outspread at the pizza but I miss the shot - the Pentax wont focus in time. The pizza is excellent. Not what I was expecting. It is thin - not very crispy but slightly - really good! [His name is Omar Escasos - originally his family is from France and Spain; they came to Buenos Aires in 1865.

Its 21:38pm on 26 June and Im sitting in the bedroom at the back of the garage at Luneds eldest sons. Lucio I think his name is. I should really remember but I have been so busy! Half way through the pizza I really feel like a siesta - the place seems to make me want to just fall asleep at about 3pm or maybe its because the pizza is massive! Im 2 mouthfuls away from finishing the pizza when my friend Omar comes in and sits at a nearby table, maybe for a chat or maybe to make sure i dont run off without paying. He starts talking and I get up to ask his name and to get him to write it down for me. He says his name is Omar and that he has French/Spanish descent although his parents were born in Buenos Aires - I think. He then explains, I think that he is very patriotic to Argentina but then mentions the Police, fruit , Trelew (the neighbouring town) the Police again, the Rio Grande (a river?) the Welsh, the grocers and frankly Im totally lost! At first I try not to laugh and its really really hard not to smile alot! I mean he isnt just talking for 20 seconds in Spanish - he's been going on for 20 minutes and my heads going to fall off from nodding. I feel like a nodding dog on the parcel shelf of a car. I then start to look concerned because my head is hurting and I dont understand why he keeps going on in Spanish when its obvious I dont speak the language. At last he finishes with a great laugh and looks at me for approval or that I should add a remark to what I think about his feelings. But I nod and say, 'Yup, I think I understand" [in English]. I tug on my ear to say that I have listened and point at my head to say that what Ive heard has gone in. Im a terrible liar. I pay him and leave - I point in my phrase book - "All the best" and try saying it but he's too busy playing with his mobile now. At last he looks up and reads it but it has the same reaction as Sergio - mild embarressment - Im sure it doesnt mean what it says on the page! It is still raining and I head up the street towards the Cyber Cafe.

I have to email Sony about my recording problems. I walk past the Welsh playgroup building which I photographed the other day - the pictures and words in Welsh stuck in the window but today the shutters are open and I see a Spanish, rather, Argentine woman inside. I dont catch her eye but I just hovver. I pull the map out of my pocket that Luned has drawn me and try to see if she has included this on there. I dont think so. The door opens and she says hello (in Spanish). I say Gales" She gets another woman who looks really British and the woman asks me if I speak Welsh - "Dim Bach". She asks me to come in and expalin that "Plant" (Children) will be here at 4:30pm. The time now is 3pm. She says it is OK to coem back then so i say Diolch yn Fawr and "Hwyl!" and head off up the street. I tell her that I have photos of my work that Id like to show her - her first language is Welsh and second is Spanish. She is called Rebecca White. I head toward the cyber cafe but realize I wont have time so i turn around and aim for 'home'. I pass a sweet shop or rather an open window with shelves of sweets showing through. I go through my loose change and a man from the 'Remises' (taxi firm) comes from the adjoining office next door. I cant see anything that looks really chocolatey, like a Mars Bar, so i point at something that says 'Blok' - he says 1 pesos. I hand it over and he barely has time to take it - he's back into the office in a flash. Its like a nutty, crunchy Yorkie bar about quarter the size. Its great to have some chocolate and it lifts my spirits. Im going to photograph the nursery kids learning Welsh and then photograph the lady who runs a bar on the corner who Luned said is Welsh and who Omar said I should see too "Gales".

25 • Monday 26 June 2006 - IT RAINS, IT POURS

2008-01-29T22:14:00.000-02:00

OK - its 26 June 2006 @ 12:05pm.

I woke at 7:38am feeling quite awake and wanted to write down stuff from yesterday that had been in my mind since 5:30am. By the time I got in last night - after 11pm it had just started raining! Well it hasnt stopped over 13 hours later!

I was aware at 7:38 this morning that there was some sort of a power cut as the light in the garage, through my bedroom door was going on and off intermittently and there were no street [lights]shining in through the steel shutters I had pulled against the window. It was really lashing down hard and I pulled my knees up towards my chest under the Tartan blanket and thicker blanket underneath which is as maliable as a floor rug. The sheet under these two had long since been 'figeted' to lie on the floor. Ive got Mr. Fordhams hat on, which i pinched from the farm as i lost my "Biggles" hat as he calls it. I wonder if he pinched it as he seemed to like it! Anyway I have socks on, no pants, the smelly long sleeved t-shirt from Thursday and a hat on in bed. Its a bit cold but I prefer to sleep like that. I could get my sleeping bag but but its too much hassle - Im just too tired!

I had hoped to get to the Post Office today but it is only open from 8-12 I think. It is still dark at 8am and there was no street lighting! Hopefully I'll adapt soon and get over this jet-lag, if that's what it is? It is still raining so I am not in any hurry to get out of the garage but I am bloody hungry! I feel like the last proper meal I had was the Shepherds Pie Charlies Mum cooked; Cherry, the night before I left. Airplane food is there to keep you alive, just, and Luned's stew was primary school portioned - not that I expected anything. The restaurant yesterday was 'secondary' [school] sized but I did have the Welsh/Turkish Tea for supper. Ive got to get to the local shop for some grub - any grub! There is a gas cooker in the garage and Im thinking that if I go to the 50 Euros/ Lynnyrd Skynryd shop today I might buy me a big hunk of beef and bring it back here...if I can find a frying pan! Hey! I buy one if I have to? Steak and mash will do me right now but not in yesterdays proportions. I wish Id made that Asado/Dinner dance!!! I was thinking this morning how Luned had introduced me to people...("did I make a living from photography?") Well not really - I said - I just scrape by - so this makes photography for me a hobby then! So I am introduced as a hobby photographer which makes me look a bit amateur in turn and I feel that people then dont take my work seriously!

When I gave them the Glengettie teabags in the first ten minutes Luned asked me how did I know to bring the with me? I said because she had emailed me this request. Aagh she remembered now. I said it was quite a challenge as I had to find out who made them [teabags] on the internet as I couldnt find them locally as I was staying in Essex. I said Typhoo sent me 3 boxes for nothing in a white van to my address and so Luned turns to her sister Tegai and says "he's very good at begging then". This I felt was quite rude as I had worked hard to get the teabags all the way there. But this is what I have learned to expect from anyone connected to Wales - lets take the piss out of the 'Sais' man even if he has just done us a favour!

Last night I found the locals to be very obliging though and took some shots in the 'cyber cafe'.Through the door there are booths on either side of the wall, then after the booths on the right a big round table tucked behind a corner where men are playing cards. There is much swearing and laughter and really funny noises that makes it sound as though they are teenagers. The teenagers however are all 'gaming' on the PC's and they too laugh, giggle and fart very noisily! [Bar Armonia - Harmony Bar!] There is certainly no embarassment as the lad next booth to me lets one rip - at first i think it is a small fire cracker going off!

I take a phot of the owner who stands behind a long wooden bar that runs the whole width of the room. A boy sits at the bar and giggles when I get my XPan out of the red and white stripey shopping bag that Luned has lent me. The bag has 2 yellow circles for handles and I feel quite incongurous as I walk down the street - no-one gives me a second glance - which is just what i want! I take a meter reading at the darkest area - which is at the foot of the bar. This means pointing the camera downwards as it is being held against my eye. The boy shrieks with laughter as he must think I am taking a picture of the floor! I then take a shot and put it on the table - i get out the Pentax 6x7 and then set the next shot up - I have to go back to the XPan again - change its ISO/ASA rating from (DX-400) to 3200 - the film I am using in the 6x7 MK1 (it doesnt have its own built-in meter) and then meter again! The boy is absolutely shrieking now! Im back and forwards, pointing at the ground with the camera etc, etc. The man and boy both want to pose for the camera and get tired of waiting - its like; they're all tensed up with uncertainty and expectation and the spontanaety goes from their bodies. No-one understands the concept obviously of a candid shot and i cant interact with them to put them at ease whilst I photograph them. In Wales I can talk with them [the subject] which takes the mind away from the camera and then get them at ease and at their best. Either Im going to have to become part of the furniture or learn the language! Its 12:48pm and still lashing it down outside. I'll turn the gas fire off - get some more Pesos from my rucksack and head to the shops with my waterproofs on! I want to email Sony about my recording problem. I can only think that I might need different earphones to hear the playback - at least thats what i am hoping!

The 6x7 MK1 "locked up" on me last night in "Bar Espanol" - this means that I press the shutter release and the mirror flips but doesnt come back down again! I try a new battery which sometimes does the trick but the mirror still stays up. Its got a mind of its own this camera - it might come back down again. This is exactly why I asked Pentax to sponsor me with a MK2 body so i could rely on it in Patagonia. Im really grateful to them! But hold on! I push a new battery into the base of the 6x7 MK1 with the battery holder and the shutter clicks back up - I mean the mirror! I try the old battery and the battery check test button on the camera registers no life at all!

24 • Sunday 25 June 2006 - BAR ESPANOL

2008-01-29T21:40:00.000-02:00

I walk down the street towards Bar Espanol where Ive been told by Luned that Welsh speakers hang out.

Cars are cruising down, overtaking each other at all different speeds. Some have got blacked out windows all over and they pass you so slowly that you feel they are going to wind the window down and shoot you, I catch a glimpse inside an old Ford Taurus - it is a real rust bucket - but it has a really up-to-date car stereo - I can see the neon blue and red lights on its dials.

Im thinking how can I get credit? I dial '2345' on my vodafone mobile and listen - its a spanish speaking woman talking....I dont understand and she doesnt give any clue as to how to top-up. Damn. I decide I'll have to send an email.

I remember just now that I found out from Fabio this morning that Argentina won against Mexico. When I was dozing off I hear "Goal!" "Goal!" "Goal!" and several men in different houses shouting the same words. Then someone with a Bugle blowing one same note over an over. They were very happy!

I remember other stuff too now - I pulled over 2 boys on motorbikes who were roaring around town making a hell of a noise! They looked like a pair out to have fun and the third time they got near I waved them down. I said "Ola" - and "No Espanol" to which the taller one, on the Suzuki Moto X kind of made a tut and a sound/a remark to say "wanker" or "idiot" - they looked pretty mean I motioned a camera clicking noise and said "por favor". The tall guy was OK but the guy on the little bike was either embaressed or just didnt want to know but the taller guy said "C'mon" type of thing to him and they both lined up when I pointed to go in front of the Welsh dragon sign. I metered with the XPan then picked up the 6x7 - they must have thought I was pissing about as I was taking a long time. They probably thought joker! And made some sort of "Urgh!" noises. I guess this wasnt too cool for them - especially as it was opposite a kids playground! The 6x7 froze up on me and i took the battery out of its home at the bottom of the camera - I tried rubbing the positive terminal against my jean leg to warm it up - so to put a bit more energy into it - this sometime works to release the shutter. It does work and I am able to use the 6x7 - thankfully! I like to use the 6x7 as it just has more depth and detail to it - the quality is outstanding. I get as close as I can - to crop as tight as I can to the boys and their bikes. The closer the better - I have to get the detail in their faces! It is 23:47 now on 25 June 2006 as I write this.

To re-cap - I have to remember what i did today: I woke and walked to the telephone kiosk - the same one as I used yesterday morning when I first arrived and tried to phone Luned but I couldnt get the phone to accept my money. I then decided to walk to hers and as I approached the front door i could see Luned at the end of the table, Tegai her sister and the three grand-daughters under a bright light - 3 bare bulbs decoarted with tartan ribbon and a spruce from a fir-tree - Christmas decorations I supposse. There is a fly screen door in front of the main front door and I walk up to. Luned sees me and says come in. i make my apologies for not arriving last night upon enetering. They are drinking Glengettie tea and i am offered a cup. There is a circular dish on the table - a wooden round platform that turns and on it sits a jar of homemade jam made in December 2004 and a plate of toast. The 3 grand daughters are very well behaved and sit with straightbacks without saying anything and sipping their tea in saucers very daintily. Afterwards I leave for a restaurant - it turns out that Andres Evans works there. After lunch and dessert I ask for a coffee - he asks small or medium - I say how about a "Mate" and he really laughs. I gues it isnt the done thing - I say I dont know abou ttheir tradition but it is allowed - he doesnt know how to answer - he just laughs. The he gets a bit serious and says "small or medium" and I say "coffee or Mate?" Im not sure if im allowed a Mate? If its the done thing? I now you can get a kick from it but im not sure if its caffeine or a herb and if its illegal? I say OK I'll have a coffee. And he goes into the kitchen to sort it.

Today i paid for: lunch: 37.50, then I went for a walk all the way to the end of the high street. I thought Id try and walk out of town to find the Lady Diana Spencer sign and Welcome to Gaiman or visit the 'Bomberos' Fire Station and check it out again! I also think "Shit!" if I going to see Andres in quoir practice Id better work out how to record on the Mini-Disc properly so i can record him singing! I walk off the high street and down a side road to a building which has the words Bomberos painted on it. A white dog with one black ear and a black stripe across its arse starts barking at me when it sees me approaching and follows me to the end of its street (its territory) barking and barking then the 'cute' Bomberos Dog I saw in the Guardia yesterday starts and he takes over from the last dog. He follows me a bit then he stops but continues barking. I stop and turn toward him - I pat my legs and ask him to come to me - he stops barking and puts his head down - runs up to me and lets himself be patted - i scratch behind his ear and he licks my hand. He follows me a bit and i say "Dos" in Welsh (Go) as if it will make a difference - he looks at me as if to say "Dym Bach Cymraeg" 'Espanol'! and runs back as i walk away. I come across buildings that i really like the look of and vehicles but feel as though I am no way near to even scratching the surface of this town photographically. I am not getting near enough to the people. This digital camera is making me snap-happy and I dont like the results its giving me. The lens just isnt good enough. I hate using flash so I set the ISO to 3200 but it loses detail as there is too much grain! (noise) natural tones and shadows versus sharp but washed out images? hmmm! lunch: 37,50. walk, go back to read manual and how to record the bloody mini-disc - i think the problem must lie with the microphone - if it is Im gonna have words with Sony!!!

I see Nico [Lucio] - Luneds eldest son and we exchange the pleasantries we each know in each others language.

Then I ask about money. I say his Mum has mentioned 20 dollars a day and he looks shocked - maybe he thinks I mean US Dollars or his Mum means that maybe his Mum means that - maybe we're talking Pesos - I dont know. He says he will talk to his Mum and for me not to worry - he walks off with a sigh and drives away. I read the manual, take a dump, play with the damn MD and leave at 5.50pm. I find the tea house at 6.10pm, I pay for the tea - 20[$] not worth it! even if it cheap by UK standards! I need to get water: I go into a great grocer/ butcher shop and buy a bottle of Nestle water 'Aqua'. It is 1.50[$] I give the 50 over but it is a Euro. The lady says No. I cant believe it! Someone has given me change in Gaiman and palmed me off with a Euro! The man comes along and offers me 50 cents for the 50 Euro coin. He really wants it - I say he doesnt have to buy it off me and give it to him. He is really made up. When I came in Lynnyrd Skynyrd were playing on the radio which made me really happy - they're my favourite group. i expalin that I am "Gales" (welsh) and can I take a photograph. I ramble in English a bit about how I will have an Exhibition of these photos and the woman behind the counter stares at me wide-eyed. i ask the man not to look at the camera - he doesnt understand at all. I motion for him to just get on with stuff and chop up his meat on the counter [this is 'El Gato' {the cat} butchers shop], which he does very quickly and then stops so he can pose for the camera. It seems more natural for them to just look at the camera than get on with stuff! It feels contrived to tell them to go about their business - Id rather they just behave how they feel - after all who am I to tell them what to do?!

I walk down to the Bar Espanol. Luned said the Welsh (Gales = "Galiss") meet there for a 'Tot'. As I walk past I hear a mewing and there is a tiny ginger cat on the window-sill of the bar, with a docked tail - I get my digital camera out - with the idea of photographing it with the characters sitting in the bar through the glass. The cat jumps off the wall and an old boy sees me with the camera - it rather looks like I am spying on him! I wave so as not to look like some sort of pervert. The cat buggers off and I decide to go in. The barman immediately eyes me with suspicion. It looks and feels like he might get a baseball out. This bar is true to its exterior and looks like a Wild-West saloon! I go up to a table and recognize a man who was at the Acienda Gym meat thing last night - he was watching the football next to the burning beef! I ask if its OK to photo - I ask the barman - he isnt too happy. A man at the table in the Adidas blue top is blotto'd and starts talking about Cerveza so i offer to buy him a drink - says Yes, Yes so I buy a bottle ['Quilmes' - 1 litre] and the barman opens the bottle and takes it and a glass to the table. The old boy in the tracksuit top pours the beer out and pushes the glass toward me to drink it. I think "Shit!" I dont drink - they'll think Im really rude". The old boy wont touch it and Im really sorry for not drinking - they cant understand why and I say "Loco-loco" I make pointing at my head signs tapping my temple and cutting my throat sign. They say why? why? I think about showing them my chest tattoo as proof of my madness in 2001 but decide not too. The old boy makes a 'halo' sign around the top of his head and pushes me the glass. I persist and just say no - I point at other people to have some at the other table but the guy from the Asado makes a face and says No! [Homer Roy]. Im totally knackered now - will finish in morning. 26 June: 0:42am. I tell you what though as a closing thought; sod all this nouveau tourist food carry on - Im gonna bulk up on some shit tomorrow. Bring on the pasties and sausage rolls!

23 • Sunday 25 June 2006 - TY CYMRAEG

2008-01-29T13:23:00.000-02:00

OK - its 7.30pm. No 7.10pm and Im at Ty Cymraeg. Andres Evans asked me to come to a choir practice but actually its in a tea house and its a performance to the people taking tea. As I approach the door many people are coming out and I stand at the porch unsure of whether this is the place.I look to my right and there is a wing on the building and I see Santiago and Andres and a girl peering through the window, laughing :”Its the crazy sais” - who cant get his mini-disc to work!” OK - a really serious man comes to the door. In a 1960s America he would have played Caesar or the man that killed him. I say that I have come to see Andres Evans and to photograph him. I get asked whether Id like a tea! Urgh - maybe but I have to take photographs. I ask if it is his establishment and if it is OK to take photos - he says Yes but would I like a tea? I get the feeling that I have to take a tea otherwise I wont be allowed in here. It is immaculate and very clean. He has the air of a Mussolini type character - the 2 waitresses call him ‘Signor’. I tell him that I can come back another time but he says he is only open at the weekends - Im not sure what he does during the week. His wife speaks Welsh: “Morgan Pugh”. Her first language is Welsh. Sorry its not his wife its his wifes mother but she looks alot younger. I complement her that she looks alot younger - she is flattered for a second but then pretends she has no time for this bullshit. I spend another 5 minutes explaining to Mussolini why I am here and convincing him I’ll come back to buy a tea another time. I ask how much?
20 Pesos. Uhm - now that seems alot! Maybe because I spent so much money in the restaurant that Andres works in he thinks Im a money bank and in Luneds words “he’s going to exploit me”. I take photos of Andres and Santiago singing - they do solos and duos. I think Charlie tries phoning and I have to rush down a corridor, past the kitchen to turn my mobiles volume down and then off. Poor Charlie - she tries phoning all that way just to be cut off. [Yup poor Charlie...just 2 weeks later and she’s shagging someone else; little hussy!]

There are 2 white slices of bread, with the texture of well...they look like they’ve been knitted from the same stuff as the tea-cosey. The man across the table from me snorts alot of flem loudly down his throat while his trophy wife with dyed blonde perm looks on nonchanentley. I have another bit of bread - there are just 2 slices in crescent moons, before this there were 2 small scones. The last bit of bread falls apart with the weight of the jam on it - the scones were one mouthful affairs, rubbery and chewey and slightly stale. There is a stainless steel ashtray with 2 small slices of cheddar/ no Edam cheese in. I take them straight off the tray and eat them with my fingers. I finish the jam with the second slice - the jam has alot of curd in - I cannot work out what it is. I think it is Apricot but it looks like Orange. It is good jam. Lastly there is a plate of 5 slices of cake on it. People are leaving - Ive been writing this so I can eat later and no-one will see. No-one knows me and Im not going to eat supper now - so Im going to stuff the lot. Im starving. Im being very serious now - the tea is stewed it tastes like Turkish tea - I should know I used to live there!

Christ its bloomin horrible. There is a Madeira sponge with a layer of cream and something that seperates itself from everything else. An alarm goes off and I look around - I look at the couple next to me and they look back “Its you making the noise idiot!” I check my phone and its the alarm I set last night to wake up for the dinner dance. I turn it off then get back to writing. Oh! I had a creme brouille afte the nouevau steak at lunchtime. It was in a deep terracotta bowl and was about a centimetre thick and the surface looked like it had had a blow-torch pointed at its surface. I took my time eating it so I wouldnt have to leave immediately. Back to the tea - Im getting through the cakes and it must be time to leave...the Welsh man singing deeply overhead is cut off abruptly and all we can hear is the hiss of the gas fire which has caused havoc with my camera lenses misting up! The electric organ that Santiago was playing I realize now was sitting on top of an old SINGER sewing machine. Im down to the last slice of cake - it is Apple...I think. I have just had Atomic Waste Cream Slice and before that Araldite Coconut topped lemon wobble. Thats it - Im stuffed! Ive eaten everything. I pour my thrid cup of Istanbuls finest and gag it down. Even if this is £3.50 worth no one in Britain would have accepted this cup of tea - at any truckstop cafe. The pretence of Welsh is finished now - the couple leave and a tranquil spanish love song comes on.

Charlie phones me - just as she says she cried the last time she spoke to me we got cut-off. I try to send her a text but no luck. I check my credit = £0.33. I put £30 in before I left! I realize Ive been getting charged when she phones me! Damn. Poor girl will be really upset now - she’ll think Ive hung up on her now?

22 • Sunday 25 June 2006 - ON THE WAY INTO TOWN

2008-01-29T12:24:00.000-02:00

...we pass a sign that says ‘Croeso’ “Lady Diana Spencer” teas, I caught a quick glimpse of this from the bus - the ‘28 de Julio’ bus from Trelew to Gaiman - Id like to take a walk out and then walk back into town - to try and understand the town as a whole and see it from a beginning - I havent found my way around yet and really want to understand where I am while while I walk around. I said goodbye to Luned at her house before I came here but she was unable to look me in the eye - she said goodbye like we would never see each other again but also flippantly.
I dont understand the people yet.

In the kitchen of the gym yesterday there was one Welsh woman who declined to be photographed. About a month ago her husband died - some wood fell on his head and killed him. I have had this dream since at least the beginning of the year. I ‘jolt’ when Luned tells me the story as we walk around all the tables that are laid out in the gym. Luned clutches my arm/ hand as we walk - I think she is worried about slipping on the shiny polished floor - she has a bad hip. I say the woman that I asked to photograph - the Welsh woman - said No! and looked really pissed off. Luned explains that she has had a tough time. I cant help immediately thinking about my dream. I thought it is originally it is because I had a fear of flying and the wood falling from the sky was significant. It was part of a limb - a branch and had one side cracked/ broken off a trunk and the other side bark. It landed into countryside that I saw in the valley as we came into town.

What am I going to do about my recordings? I will have to read the manual thoroughly - thankfully I brought it with me. Fabio invited me to stay to watch England play Ecuador but I am concerned they will be in their home too much Fabio says that I should have a practice with the Mini-Disc. I say the technology is too difficult for me - I am embaressed and trying to be humble! Fabios Dad passed away on the 28th May and I am sorry (I said sorry) to Luned yesterday for troubling them with emails when he was so ill. i feel terrible for that! The time now is about 15.30 - I have been here for about 3 hours - I think its time to pay the bill and walk. I guess it will be ‘siesta’ time soon - if I ‘siesta’ i wont wake up until tomorrow. What an idea - how does anyone do any work?! If I dont sort out this recording I am going to be mad - maybe I should have a re-read of the manual and come back! Santiago is fair haired waiter/ Andres and Malaria - Marina the chefs sister. I was going to say what a sweet name - being my charming self but stopped myself; I cant exactly pull that one off: Malaria conjures up something else!
[Well I later learn she is called Valeria, I mean; whats my problem? Who would call their child Malaria?]

21 • Sunday 25 June 2006 - LA VIEJA CUADRA (formerly Tafarn Las)

2008-01-29T12:18:00.000-02:00

I get Andres permission t go into the kitchen to take photographs. Marina is the chef with a black hat and a little sticker - like a tattoo, on her arm. She looks like a hard worker, small, with a cheeky grin. I take my time to photograph making sure I get the right moment and I think they wonder why I am taking so long? I make sure I get some shots of Andres taking the food out of the kitchen and while he’s talking to Marina.

Ive been trying to hear my recordings on the Mini-Disc and I cant work out what has gone wrong - it shows that is has recorded the tracks but when plays there is no sound! [The problem is this...I went to CURRYS in Colchester before I flew to Argentina. I asked for a Mini-Disc Player that could also record with a microphone. The dopey sales guy went and got me a SONY and told me it would do the job. I bought it and plugged a microphone into it and recorded a track of someone talking. I could only hear a distant, vague voice so I decided the microphone was useless; it was old and never much good anyway. So I bought another plug-in microphone from SONY for £45 and didnt have time to test it before I flew. The sales guys at SONY in Colchester reassured me that it would work. NO it didnt! WHO was at fault? ME for buying the damn thing and trusting in what the prat at CURRYS said! Half asleep idiot.]

It is simply a plug-in microphone - it should be piss easy - just plug n play. Maybe the earphones Fabio has lent me aernt compatible with my Mini-Disc Recorder? but I can hear 2 recordings I made with the Vivanco microphone, at Rowneys Farm. But not these ones. Im really upset - I try to find the tracks - I think they must be hiding, whilst I eat and keep on stopping the recorder, “searching” and pressing play. God I wish I had researched this before I left.

Andres speaks Welsh and I want to continue to recording voices - I feel it is so important! There are alot of Indian faces on the street - they look Peruvian or Mexican - apparentley alot of ‘Argentinians’ - of European descent have later bred with local Indian tribes.

I have to say that I like the digital camera - the way it autofocuses and how I can turn off the flash and set the ISO high to 3200 so it deals with low-light and keeps all the shadows whey they are. Im starting to relax a bit but Im worried that my recordings aernt there! I dont like the way that digital cameras ‘prostitute’ photography. It is harder to take a shot wth the film 6x7 and I am also left wondering whether the x-ray machine has ‘scrubbed’ my film before I have even got here. Maybe I havent been that well prepared - I have all the kit but I havent tested it all. I am using the Pentax 67 MK1 as the front camera as the MK2 lost its ‘eyepiece focuser’ in Danbury Forest and I am not sure its pictures will be in focus. So I rely on the MK1 which has all its parts there! gas must be plentiful here as everyone uses it! It certainly makes it warm but gives me a light head. I take the shots in the kitchen but decide not to take a photo of Andres serving the people in the restaurant - it seems rude and showing off and I feel out of place. I am content with the shots in the kitchen - they are natural. I text Charlie and Andres asks if I am phoning Wales? He seems surprised that I am able to. I say i am texting Wales (to keep it simple and keep the pretence that my whole life is centred around Wales). I say he can text anyone in Wales if he wishes - he looks embaressed and says thank you. I take a slef portraoit in the corner of the restaurant - where I am seated - no flash so as not to attract attention and set at 3200ASA. It is really noisy (grainy) with not much detail but it shows the shadows off naturally which is what I like.

20 • Sunday 25 June 2006 - I APOLOGIZE FOR NOT TURNING UP

2008-01-29T12:04:00.000-02:00

...she says her son came in to check on me. The door to the garage was un-locked. I should really have locked it and I was totally out apparentley! I guess he must have called my name. The dance was good - with an old band on the stage and people dancing the tango - not for show but how people, everyday do it. Luned was looking for faces for me to photograph but she said there werent many - apparentley the food - the beef I had seen cooking earlier kept on coming and coming! I have to tell her not to describe anymore as I am drooling - typical! Im in a restaurant paying over the odds for nouevaeu cuisine and last night they couldnt give the beef away! All Im thinking about is Argentine beef at the moment - I really need something to eat! Luned has her 3 grandaughters for breakfast on Sunday - it is maybe around 11am Twins and one other! of Arabic descent. They are very well behaved. I guess they spent the night there as Fabio was baby-sitting whilst everyone was at the dance.

19 • Saturday 24 June 2006 - MAD PELARFA!

2008-01-29T11:58:00.000-02:00

What a mad Pelarfa! Totally mad - it feels like the only thing that I can do right is write! My recordings aernt working on this damn Mini-Disc recorder! Maybe its the microphone I bought: the expensive £45 microphone! I cant find any track Ive recorded at all - even though they show as tracks on the LCD screen. Im in a restaurant - No.11 on Luneds map: “Vieja Coedue” [La Vieja Quadra]. I was after a big meal but its like Nuevo Cuisine. Nuevo in Patagonia - I thought Id have to struggle with a whole cow leg or something, but I get a ‘plop’ of fried mashed potato and 4 small squares of beef - medium rare and peppercorns. Tastes great but not enough for a gaucho/ Argentinian Rugby player/ Welsh Rugby fan or travelling photographer. Some white/ brown bread and fried bread or toasted bread rather in olive oil with a yellow garlicy mayonnaise in side dish which I eat down quickly.

I ask for mineral water. The waiter speaks good English. It turns out I have been emailing him! He is Andres Evans! Its a small world Ha! Ha! I was given his name by Catrin Y Milton and later Luned Gonzalez. He is a student and his 80 yr old grandfather speaks Welsh and so does he - he had a scolarship to Lampeter for 2 months to learn Welsh. I stand up as he says have I been emailing him? I realize it is Andres and shake his hand readily. I tell him his English is great - he says No! I ask him if he can perhaps help me - drive me around the place in the family car? He was at the Camwy dance last night - which I missed! Did I write this down? It is a blur!

By the time I had been to the Camwy gym, the old Welsh couple and back to Luneds - where she made a list of people to meet I went to her eldest sons to stay [we had looked at the ‘Bomberos’ {Fire Station} because they have the town camping ground on their site; Luned said I could stay at her sons as it was too cold and it would give them some income!] He has a garage with a nice bedroom in the back of it and shower/ bathroom. By the time I have finished saying thank you, thank you it is getting on for 6pm. I have a quick shower or rather until the hot water runs out, brush my teeth - the first time since at Charlies on Wednesday night! I set my mobile phone alarm for 7.45pm - it is 6.30pm now. I put my old dirty top on that Charlie bought for me - the first since I left on Thursday. I climb into a very hard piece of foam mattress, sheets and blanket - a pillowcase with 2 cushions inside it - off a sofa and fall asleep instantly! My alarm wakes me for one or two beeps of it - it has a ‘snooze’ setting that comes on every ten minutes - I think to make sure you stay awake and get up but I just sleep through! I wake at about 9.48pm. There is a gas fire on in the bedroom under the bare brick windows and it has dried all the air out - my throat is dry so I get up and drink some of the small bottled water I bought at the Retiro. Presumably if the gas fire was going to kill me Luneds eldest son would have turned it off? I go for a pee and go back to sleep. I feel like Ive drunk a bottle of whisky and been kicked in the head!
I sleep - having awkward uneasy dreams, tossing and turning. I cant believe Im in South America, I feel totally at ease here - like Ive been here before. Been to Gaiman before. I wake at 6.15am and doze. I get up at 9.30am. Idiot!
Total Wanker! Ive missed the dinner/dance! I re-assure myself that its destiny and that I wasnt meant to go. Later, this morning [Sunday 25 June 2006] Luned tells me that its OK.

18 • Saturday 24 June 2006 - CAMWY CENTENARY PREPARATIONS IN GYM

2008-01-29T11:48:00.000-02:00

We go to the gym, the school gym and she tries all the doors - then we see 1 man go into 2 huge sliding doors, one man has just come out. The door slides shut just as we get to it - Luned heaves a door to slide it open and sticks her head in. She says “Quick! Get your camera, this will make an amazing shot”. She gives me her car keys and runs back - I think maybe its Santa Claus the way her voice sounds. I get my gear and come bak to the sliding doors. I open one and am hit by very welcome hot air. Down one side there is a wall of flame with crosses of beef hanging on them. At the end there is a group of men with their backs turned to me, watching the match. I ask their permission - it is a great sight - I start to photograph them and the meat cooking against the flame. I am ravenous and think it will make a delicious meal! Luned has gone next door to talk.

200 speakers of Welsh possibly in Gaiman and surrounding area? and possibly at most 2000 Welsh speakers in Argentina/ South America. But Luned doesnt exactly know as there isnt a census. A project £35,000 - Welsh Assembly, a year - 3 teachers a year come out to Chubut Valley to teach and there are 6 scolarships for local Welsh students. ‘Lampeter’ course - 8 weeks.

17 • Saturday 24 June 2006 - FIRST AFTERNOON IN GAIMAN

2008-01-29T11:32:00.000-02:00

Go in the Renault 4 with Luned to the Bethel Chapel in Gaiman. There is a play group going on and everyone there has some sort of connection with Wales. This is the second chapel to be built, in about 1880. The first one was washed away in a flood. This is a mini-eisteddfod.

My mobile rings and it is Charlie - it says Private Call - I answer but it goes dead. Im not sure if my phone will really work? Luned carries on telling me about Big Eisteddfods, small eisteddfods, mini ones and ‘micro’ ones the phone rings again - I ask if Luned will excuse me and go outside to talk to Charlie. She is at ‘Trim & Tims’ - having a barbecue and then going on to a party. She says it is really hot - weird to think that its really cold here! The cold is enough to make steam come from a mouth of someone that is talking. It is time to leave, Luned comes out and says “ we are closing up” - so I say to Charlie I have to go. She says I sound funny - like I am on drugs or drunk, my words are slurred. I am not aware of this but know I am dog tired. Since I woke up on Thursday morning at 6 o’clock am - I left Charlie, with her in car to Marks Tey station and took 8.09am train. Go to Heathrow, waited until 9.45pm to take off. About 2 hours sleep on the plane, total air time = 16 hours. Take coach at 12.45pm (Argentina time) and arrive in Gaiman at 11.45am next day. Saturday. In this time I have had about 4 hours sleep and not a big meal, Luned fed me lunch yesterday
(I am writing this at 9.20am on Sunday). A stew but in truth Tegai - who I guess is in her eighties had a bigger portion than me - She has the appetite of a bull - me a bullock!

Tegai even got up to herself to the gravy at the bottom of the pot! She must be all of 8 stone and I am 17 and a half! After the mini-drawing eisteddfod we go in the Renault 4 to see the ‘Bomberos’ - the Fire Brigade. We look at the campsite, it is pretty rough, rusty metal in the corner, a toilet and shower block which is OK and lined by some lovely trees - I cant remember the name, Luned says they like the salty earth. There is a BBQ site next to the river, which runs fast and green. An eagle [Chimango] sits on the edge of the brick BBQ, there are several BBQ sites, eating something. It takes off with something huge in its claws but I dont see. There is what looks like a dead sheep near the BBQ. It has been dead a while - maybe a dead white dog - I cant be sure. We look in the fire station and I am gob-smacked - they are still using an American 1950s fire engine. It is like a dream to be here - we have just stepped 50 years back in time. I have to get a photo! We look a round, calling into buildings and see the boots and trousers lined up in a row, a man in uniform, he looks like a military person comes out of the ‘Guardia’ office and says hello. He knows Luned. It seems that everyone knows her and has respect for her. She takes a seat in the centre of the room and they talk in Spanish. I am introduced and shake hands - there are 2 men there. One in uniform and one out of uniform. The Argentina/ Mexico match is on, it is 1-1. I can feel that the men would earnestly be rather watching the football than talking to us. A really cute dog is jumping up on the Guardia all the time and he has to rap it on the nose! The guard has a ‘mate’ on the table - brimming with herb and hot water with the metal pipe sticking out. I remember the go I had with it on the coach and the kick it gave and could really do with another hit from it! It is like caffeine but slightly different. I can feel myself starting to wane and know that if I dont sleep and eat properly soon I will be ill in bed from exhaustion. We say goodbye and get back into the Renault 4. Luned stalls it and revs it high: whenever we pull away. She says she is not used to it as it is Tegais and she and her had a ‘crash’ - a meeti ng on the road down from the house - it sounded ike Luned, in her Renault Clio ended vertically up the bank. It has scratches all down the side of it. We go round the grid system of the town. All straight roads adjacent to each other. It is hair raising to turn at a cross roads - there are no traffic lights and it is a free for all. As we are on the right hand side of the road to turn left involves driving across oncoming cars - Im not surprised all the cars - even the newer European cars, like the Golf I was picked up in are dented! As we turn Luned leans against me and I feel like I have to support her with my shoulder until the manouevre is over.

Occassionally we hit a huge pot hole, we could have gone round it but it would be too much hassle to steer! It feels that driving is a massive chore! We go and see the Welsh couple from Bryn Gwyn [Ada & Elfed] who milk cattle and we are invited to sit down - everyone is in their houses watching the football. Luned says we cant stay and says I will come back to photograph them. I should call in and say “Manana, manana”. “Tomorrow, tomorrow”!?!

16 • Saturday 24 June 2006 - THIS FEELS VERY ODD

2008-01-29T11:29:00.000-02:00

Have to say that this feels very odd. I have already got my film cameras out and am walking around the house hoping for a good moment to take a shot. Fabio is watching the TV - Germany playing Sweden - The World Cup. First photo i take is of Luned Gonzalez on the phone to a friend in front of a gas fire. Then another of her at the cooker: “Ive added some pineapple to the beef - What do you think?” [Luned is a retired teacher - fluent in Castellano, Welsh and English].
“Is it a good idea?” Then another of the three eating at the table but Tegai isnt too happy - they say ‘Yes’ and I do take one but Tegai mentions the word “Pretencious” [in Spanish].
I apologize! I guess Im excited at being here - Ive had the idea for 2 years and I dont want to let any chance slip away - in case I dont have any other opportunities - Ive made this mistake before.

15 • Saturday 24 June 2006 - TRELEW TO GAIMAN $2.50

2008-01-29T11:25:00.000-02:00

I have to get the driver to write down the cost of the ticket - Two and a half dollars. I give him 3 Dollars - I get change - I say ‘Gracias’ and he says ‘Thanks’.

I have arrived! I walked the streets after getting off the bus. I wasnt sure where to get off so I departed at the second stop of the bus in Gaiman - at the start of the highstreet. I went into an agricultural parts store where stood 5 men and asked in Spanish: Camwy Esceula por favor. They asked if I was Gales (Welsh) or English? I replied English nd the young boy behind the counter said 2 blocks down the street and turn right. Then he changed his mind. I said gracias and ciao after he said turn right after the first block. I saw a blue telephone kiosk and decided to try and phone Luned Gonzalez. There was no luck on my mobile so I decided on a landline local! After a few goes of putting 50 cents in I got through and was told to wait there and goodbye. Very soon a Volkswagen Golf arrived with a man, woman and child. The man got out, asked me if I was the photographer and put my stuff in the boot. There was a huge crack across the windscreen. I had just seen an old Ford Taurus drive by, missing a wing completely and no-one is bothered! We roar down the high street and up a dirt track, uphill around a bend and already at Luned Gonzalez’s house which she shares with her sister Tegai and son Fabio. I come in, offer to take my shoes off, which I do, Fabio greets me. The man who drove the car works on a local paper and immediately asks to take my photo for the ‘La Gaceta del Valle”. And asks questions which Luned translates.
He writes 2 pages of A4 very quickly and leaves. I hand over 2 packs of Glengettie tea to Luned who is very happy to receive it. Tegai and Fabio explains that they ran out of Glengettie tea today, by coincidence, so it is great that Ive arrived with some. ( I have 3 boxes of 160 teabags and have given 2 over - I think someone I meet, a Welsh speaker - elsewhere might like some!?) Luned said she was expecting only a small box.
[I had been communicating with Luned by email before I flew out. I got her email address from Donal Whelan in St. Hilary who stayed with her a few years before. I asked her if she would like anything and she said Glengettie tea. I was staying in Essex on David Fordhams farm and couldnt find it anywhere {only sold in Wales} so I found on the net who made it ‘Typhoo’ and emailed them. They kindly sponsored me with the 3 boxes and delivered them by white van to the farms address a day before I flew, phew!]

14 • Saturday 24 June 2006 - LEAVING MADRYN

2008-01-29T11:22:00.000-02:00

As we leave we head down the main street, it is busy, a dog is running free after its owner down the middle of the street, the owner is cycling [missed the shot and only go the later slightly late on the pavement]. It is beautiful chaos. As we round the corner the dog jumps onto the kerb and I take a photo - too late to show it down the highstreet.

I found the saying “Te deseo lo mejor” which means ‘All the best’ and I point at it in my Spanish phrase book to Sergio. He says “for you?” I say “No!” for you”. I try and say it in Spanish. He shakes my hand. Ive been trying to think of what the coach coffee tastes like - try melting one of those Highland Treacle Toffees - the black ones - thats exactly what you’d get! It is really belting with rain now!
There are shrines along the edge of the road - I guess where people have crashed and died. Ive been on this coach for 22 hours!

13 • Saturday 24 June 2006 - SERGIO

2008-01-29T11:18:00.000-02:00

takes a photo of me giving thumbs up and drinking mate, with his camera. We exchange email addresses. He invites me to his house when I am in Puerto Madryn. He says when I telephone him I must speak a little Spanish! we laugh. All I say is por favor for please and gracias for thanks. He says all foreigners who cant speak Spanish just say this. I feel really boring!

Just pass a sign - Puerto Madryn = 77kms. Trelew 146kms. Visibility is about half a mile. White and misty. I cant believe after all this time that I am really here!

Its 9.55am - Sergio, Luciano and his friend get off at Puerto Madryn. Sergio says I must phone him and visit his house. We shake hands. He tells Luciano; maybe 3 years old to say goodbye: he says “Ciao” and shakes my hand. A really well behaved sweet boy! Sergio also leaves me with a bottle of ‘Yogurisimo’ Probio 2 Go! Frutilla probiotic yoghurt drink, strawberry, 200g and a 500g bag of ‘Pepas’ biscuits - his son doesnt like them: he wants to eat at home. It is raining, grey overcast sky, no leaves on trees. A big port town. See old rusting hulks of ships as we drive in. ‘Pepas’ biscuits are like ‘Jammy Dodgers’. Sergio is 31 years old and has 4 kids. 2 boys and 2 girls. He works as a waiter and is travelling back with his friend, who is also his fathers friend, from Buenos Aires. Sergio has been visiting his parents and his friend is coming back here to look for work.

12 • Saturday 24 June 2006 - DRIVING SOUTH

2008-01-29T11:14:00.000-02:00

Driving south of Sierra Grande the land looks like parts of Scotland - slightly hilly with heather and gorse bushes.

Looks like good ‘peat’ cutting country. The sky is white in the distance, a road with double yellow lines down the middle. Single white lines on the outside, a margin of red gravel on each side and then hilly scrub, on and on.

11 • Saturday 24 June 2006 - GERBA OR MATE [YERBA]

2008-01-29T11:05:00.000-02:00

Gerba [Yerba] or mate - I have my first drink at Esso garage! Sergio gets a ‘Bombia’ [Bombilla] is the special mug with a straw - a metal straw. It is an enamel mug with all the tea leaves in the bottom already: just pour on the water. The tradition is that you share the mate: Sergio pours the hot water for me - I drink - then he drinks, then I drink; maybe 6 or 7 times. If you dont want anymore you dont say, you just say ‘gracias’ and put your hand up.

10 • Saturday 24 June 2006 - MILANESA CON PAPAS FRITAS

2008-01-29T10:43:00.000-02:00

Sergio says we are going to eat in Bahia Blanca - the price of food is included in coach ticket. We have Ravioli and his son has Milanesa con Papas Fritas - he doesnt like Ravioli.I try some, it is quite tough but sweet and salty - I like it. It reminds me of eating horse in Turkey. (Por Favor).

It’s 3.50am and we’re just pulling out of another coach station. The roads aernt quite as smooth and the coach rattles. Im knackered! Just had maybe 4 hours sleep. The road is narrower and to get past some traffic cones down the centre of the white lines we have to go a bit wide hitting a strip of dirt on the road - making a d-d-d-d-d-d noise. it feels a bit bloody dangerous and you then almost feel the dirt like marbles under the tyres.
We stop in Sierra Grande @ 7.40am for a break. Its cold outside and still dark. The driver stays to the middle of the road. When driving there are no cats eyes but white stripes in the middle. You can see the glow from headlamps away in the distance, straight ahead long before the proper brightness of the lens actually hits you. Each time a vehicle meets us the driver of the coach flashes his lights at the oncoming car as if to say “dip your beam!” but the beam is dipped so the ‘oncoming’ flashes his to show - then the coach does the same and it becomes a frenzy of flashing lights until each passes.

09 • Friday 23 June 2006 - SERGIO & LUCIANO

2008-01-29T10:19:00.000-02:00

Sergio moved from Buenos Aires 3 years ago and now lives in Puerto Madryn - he works as a waiter and says that Patagonia is the best place for him and his family. No problems like in the city. ‘Gales’ means Welsh. They are the best people he says. They are kind and nice.
Antonio says “Mucho Guilomo” [Mucho Quilombo]; it means very bad - everything is bad everywhere; the people, the cars, the place. Sergio says in Patagonia “Moy Quilombo”.

Re-cap today:
1. Land in Sao Paulo, wait for ages for fog to clear then take off for Buenos Aires.
2. Land - say goodbye to Sean & Rachel.
3. Go through passport control.
4. Get rucksack. See Damian get his before I get mine - ask to chat and take photo.
5. Exchange money from pretty girls in Bureau Exchange.
6. X-ray luggage
7. Manuel Tienda Leon.
8. Girl (blonde girl) takes me to Antonio who drives me to retiro. We get our picture taken together, then I take a candid one of him. He gives me his number. A nice man and very friendly/ funny.
9. I find information centre and ask for coach to Trelew. Go upstairs.
10. Go to Condor Estrella. Im there at 12.20pm. The next coach leaves at 12.45pm and arrives next day at 10.50am - to Trelew. The girl serving doesnt speak English but she gets a girl that does. I have 15 minutes until the coach goes. I rush and buy water and biscuits then get on coach.
Before it leaves 2 young men come on and hand out leaflets about drug use/ alcohol. They are collecting money. One gives a speak - no one is interested. He asks for his b/w photocopy back - I dont want to. He holds his hand out for money - I make a face. He lets me have it. I think its interesting to keep.
1 x 2 litre bottle of water @ Bahia Blanca $4.50, supper free with ticket. [Ive wrote all the prices down to begin with for 2 reasons. Firstly I had been back to Colchester Institute, Essex before flying to Argentina and saw an old tutor; David Jury who had taught me on my degree course from 1994 - 1997. He had his own small publishing company and wanted to do a book with me about my trip. He said it was a good idea to keep a record of everything. With this in mind, secondly it seemed also a good idea in case the Arts Council of Wales wanted to audit my exopenses. Tight bastards as they only gave me £1,800 for this project!]

08 • Friday 23 June 2006 - US $ FOR ARGENTINE $

2008-01-29T10:12:00.000-02:00

I exchange US Dollars for Argentine Dollars then buy Taxi to ‘retiro’. $72 Pesos or $76 US Dollars.

Then I buy coach to Telew. Im doing well - buy ticket at approx 12.30pm - coach leaves at 12.4pm.

Only have time to buy 5 bottles of 50cl water (500cm3) and 2 packs of “pepitos” con riquismos chips ahoy!

cookies = 16 Argentina Dollars. $2 = 1 bottle. cookies = $3 each.

Just saw what looked like a cross between a duck and eagle on the edge of the road. I doze off - I wake up and Im cold. The windows have steamed up again and are streaming. We stop at a bus station which has shops and toilets and I decide it might be safe to rush inside and try and find something half decent to eat. The time is 5.45pm. We’ve been going for 5 hours but it feels like 12. I take my digital Pentax in with me, round my neck but under my t-shirt. It makes me look deformed. I also take my Spanish phrase book but Im too sleepy to bother using it. I go to the first shop I see and ask for 4, using my fingers on one hand minus my thumb for ‘Cereal Fort’ I point to the apple cereal bars. They’re $1 each = $4. I go to the Gents toilets, not really believing that Im in South America and do my zip up, catching a great clump of pubic hair as I do so (I dont wear underpants). Ouch! Yes I am in South America.

I need something more substantial and head towards a cafe. I get weird looks - it might be the camera bulge, my sleepy head or that Im just wearing a thin long-sleeved t-shirt and everyone elseare wearing hats, jumpers and jackets. Its not really cold - its like a spring evening in the UK. I buy a cheese and ham baguette for $5 (five dollars) and the lady supplies 2 mayonnaise sachets - I head quickly back to the coach. I dont know when its leaving and help myself to another small cup of thick black sweet and hot liquid. Was that “La Plata”? Dont know how far south we are yet...hope we stop again - could do with proper grub.

07 • Friday 23 June 2006 - DAMN IT!

2008-01-29T10:07:00.000-02:00

The front window of the coach is misting up! Can’t see a damn thing! Can just make out another flag waver. Hope the driver isn’t misting up too! {The pretty blonde girl hands me over to Antonio the driver - she says “Oh, he’s your driver” like an afterthought and walks away without a goodbye. I make sure I thank her very much and say goodbye, she nods shyly, smiles and goes slightly red. I go to sit in the back of the car because a coat is on the front seat after I go to the front initially - he moves the coat and motions me to sit in the front. As we drive he tries to adjust his seat and swerves the car sharply across the lane - I wonder if he’s trying to scare the shit out of me? I make a small cough to clear my throat and concentrate on something else. I try to call Cecilia but she’s given me the wrong numbers. Cant get through. The city looks as though its half finished - no rendering on the walls. My camera is in the rucksack in the boot - damn - missing opportunities everywhere. All the people seem to be really laid back - it gives me a really relaxed feeling. Things are scruffy but no-one minds - it has a character I have respect for. A house might look run down with faded paint, a shop might have faded signage but boy does it look cool! This must be how America used to look.

Just passed a field with cows so packed that it looks like they’ve no room to move - like a giant pen there. Must have been over a thousand head of cattle! This is nuts! These roads aern’t 3 miles straight - they go on forever. I go downstairs to use the bog - it has a small clear window inside so you can still see the view as you pee. When I got up to go downstairs I took my biscuits “pepitos” and water down from the shelf and the biscuits landed on a man underneath. I dropped my camera bags on a lad in the aeroplane today too! Help myself to a plastic cup downstairs and the sign to a hot drink - it almost slides out of the tap, it is black coffee but more like chicory and very sweet. I gingerly take it up he steps to the top. The man behind me shrinks back as I pass.

06 • Friday 23 June 2006 - A PRETTY BLOND GIRL

2008-01-29T10:02:00.000-02:00

with a funny type of brace on top row of teeth meets me outside airport [taxi official] after I pay for ticket, she gives me a cute little baby wave and a sweet sympathetic smile. {My ‘Barclays’ pen just explodes as I push too hard onto the page: the end flies out with a ‘ping’ and hits the man sleeping across the aisle on the top deck of the coach. I smile and want to say sorry but dont have the words. He smiles back with a knowing look that says he knows that Im a simpleton! I find another ‘barclays pen’ in the top of my rucksack and wait for the same thing to happen. The man then offers me his pen - I shake my head and say “Gracie” - maybe he thinks his pen would be safer!? The sun is bright even though its winter. Its just like being on the road from ‘March’ to ‘Wisbech’ in East Anglia. A straight road, a bend, then another ridiculous straight. Wind pumps for water line the road - they still work - just like in the western movies.}

05 • Friday 23 June 2006 - "DISTRITO KANIBAL"

2008-01-29T09:55:00.000-02:00

“Distrito Kanibal” (Cannibal District) - Graffiti on slip road from main road leading out of town [seen from taxi traveling from airport to coach station].

Shit - Im missing loads of good shots as I go past characters on the coach. Lots of Americano trucks - Mercedes buses,
2 CVs, Renault 4’s, Its a different world - its England/UK in the 70’s. Ford Taurus, Ford Falcons, all bikes are 125s, no one wears helmets. Roadside BBQ’s - with old beaten up USA trucks, stray dogs, dirt, dust, baseball caps, big old eucalyptus trees. Shanty towns, kids playing on worn-out football fields with no football nets in goal posts, little kids - maybe 4 years old. American bicycles with cow-horn handlebars, girls riding them. Ford Sierras, Ford KA’s (bashed up - they look alot better like that).
There’s 2 lanes opposite but coach driver sticks to right in the middle, pushing all vehicles over to the dirt on the other side. He even pushes cars on his side over if he cant overtake - they just drive into the dirt on the edge of the road and the coach sails past. Stray dogs in packs in a field. Like a herd of horses but a herd of dogs. All vehicles that aernt moving have something on the bonnet or the roof. 2 cars have traffic cones on them.

04 • Friday 23 June 2006 - NO ESPANOL FINITO

2008-01-29T09:45:00.000-02:00

“No espanol finito” Antonio says after I say “Excuse no espanol” but no problem. I sit in front with him and he reaches behind my seat and gives me a satsuma. I peel it, he gives me a plastic bag to put skin in. I halve it and give him one half - he grabs it and eats it in one go. I do the same, I crunch pips up as I dont want to spit them out of the window. I dont know him well enough to do that. Ive broken the ice and he appreciates that Im trying to be friendly. He says he is hungry: “mucho guilomo”. I say it.
[I later learn that he is saying “mucho que lombo” which is rude slang for a brothel].

His friend from the taxi company phones and he puts the receiver to my mouth; I say “Mucho guilomo” in my best Spanish - what I think is good Spanish: we all laugh!
Boy on 50cc moped, baseball cap with big shopping in basket on front on a 3 mile long straight road - hand in pocket just cruising at 20mph.
At traffic lights he [Antonio] stops a street seller and buys a snack, he opens it (I kept the wrapper) and gives me half. He makes gestures that it will give strength. He pushes his arms out and sort of goes ‘grrr’! I do the same and say ‘Si, Si’ - ‘Grrr’! We get involved in heavy traffic and he makes noises that feign panic - ‘Ooh! Ooh!’ - when big lorries get too close. Im laughing my head off. He likes it Im laughing!

(Its just like the Fens here, flat, the only difference is slower traffic, wider roads, American trucks and big, huge eucalyptus trees. Funny that if I was in the Sahara desert Id be alot closer to home - almost around the corner in fact!
WE must be cruising at 50mph! Ive got to get the trike here - these roads were built for it! Dead straight. Lots of road works, boys in bright orange uniforms waving flags to warn the oncoming traffic that there are earth moving trucks pulling out. I realize what ‘the bar’ Antonio bought was - a large ‘Halva’ bar! A Model ‘A’ Ford pick-up truck by the side of the road - still being used!

03 • Friday 23 June 2006 - WELSH FLAG

2008-01-28T21:59:00.000-02:00

Damian - saw bag at arrivals with Welsh flag - talked to him - 26 yrs. trained as chemist - worked at that for 4 years. in between things. train as an accountant now. 1st thing watch New Zealand/ Argentina and then head down to Patagonia.
07939222875

Land - ‘GG’ is on tail of British Airways Jumbo? Got through customs OK. Wait for luggage - see a Welsh flag on rucksack and watch to see who takes it. Follow and ask to take photo/interview. Take one shot at 3200ASA and its OK then put ISO to ‘auto’ - auto flash pops up and a young custom guy tells me “no flash”/”no photos” - he tells me to go through to baggage check. I finish talking to Damian and change US$ into Argentine Dollars then go through to baggage check. The young customs guy, handsome but sweaty and scruffy asks me if I am a tourist - I look bemused - Im not sure how to answer, he asks again - not sure if his English is right. My belongings lie on other side of x-ray with no one to attend to them. Whatever the young man is talking to his friends about it is much more important. I go through a strange door in the corner of a big room at the end of customs/baggage check - it looks like a cupboard - i expect to find a mop and a bucket but instead it opens out to the foyer where I find the Manuel Tienda Leon taxi office immediately on left. (2 very pretty girls at the money exchange - one on either side of the kiosk. The one with back to me is wearing a one-piece short dress in turquoise - she has the legs and body of a model).

02 • Friday 23 June 2006 - SAVIOURS OF FLIGHT

2008-01-28T20:52:00.000-02:00

Peter Lorraine - supervisor @ X-RAY machine said I could x-ray 3200ASA film - he said it was ‘slow’.

Helen Smith - Customer Services in Departures calmed me down and gave good advice.

SK-photo.com Sean + Rachel
“saviours on flight” doing photo shoot for PEACOCKS in Buenos Aires for 2 weeks. Autumn-winter 2006 Catalogue.
[‘Saviours’ because they kept me talking whilst we were taking off - I had a fear of flying dating back to an electrical storm in 1988 over Brazil].

‘Caroline’ - Cabin Crew - very friendly stewardess from Liverpool. (Caroline Burns as in “Burnsey”).

No.1 photo of Charlie in bath 22 June 2006
No.2 photo of Sean + Rachel on Boeing 747-400
at Sao Paulo - waiting on Tarmac. 10am UK time.

01 • Thursday 22 June 2006 - A GUINEA

2008-01-28T20:19:00.000-02:00

12.49pm

Im in Terminal 4, arrived here before 11am - after taking a train from Marks Tey station at 08.09am.

Charlie [aka Guinea Girl] my girlfriend dropped me off on her way to work. We stopped at the

Esso Service Station in Eight Ash Green, she for petrol, me for ‘snickers’, flapjack & water and for

her ‘special k’ bar, water and sugar-free ‘red bull’. Total £4:65.

Write her a ‘love note’ on a Chinese restaurant Takeaway menu that is sitting in the footwell of the car.

I’ll be surprised if she can read it the car was jolting around so much! I ‘wolf’ the ‘snickers’ flapjack down

and Charlie calls me a “pig” - I remind her of a pig. Not what I want to hear as Im leaving for a month.

I say I’d rather be a big hairy boar.

We have a big hug at the station and I wait for her to double back on a road that passes the station - I give a

last wave and she waves back. Buy ticket from Marks Tey to Liverpool Street including fare to Heathrow = £21:00.

Take a free bus from Halton Cross to Terminal 4. Arrange my tickets and paperwork in the Gents whilst taking a crap. No bog-paper - check 3 cubicles before I find some. There’s a clock as you come in on the wall of the toilet area which says 48 until next time will be checked for hygiene by staff - is this days or months?

Feels like an extension of the London Underground. Dirty and smelly.

Im writing this in a waiting area at the end of departures and it feels the same, scruffy seats in grey plastic and a yellow stained ceiling next to a head height perspex window that holds all the smokers. Behind the smoke they look like over-sized fish trapped in too small a tank. ‘This unit is for the use of passengers only” though everyone else seems to be getting the benefit of the smoke; ‘passive passengers’.

A German couple sit down at the end of the row Im on - opposite each other - she is Mother to her husband and takes a huge slice of apple cake from its packet passing it to her already expectant husband with outstretched hands. A paper kitchen towel is laid across one, the right thigh, and he eats it quickly whilst the wife crunches around an apple loudly. Ernest German is spoken quietly for ten minutes punctuated by “one for me and one for my wife” in English then Ernest silence whilst both read the papers. A pretty girl in a baseball cap and ‘O’Neill’ hoodie paces the floor listening to her iPod mouthing words to the song, turning at the end of every aisle like an infantry soldier. Trolleys clog the way, one has a large crate on it, punctuated by holes, presumably for an animal - I wonder what it is - not much fun trapped on a trolley next to smoking, the smoking cage. Its actually not in the cage, its an old Springer spaniel or Cocker with a docked tail. Just had a bowl of water to drink.

Flight is at 9.45pm. Check in 3 hrs before. 6.45pm. Time now 1.29pm. 5 and a quarter hours to kill - What to do.
“Rapido” = 2 eggs/2 bacon rashers/ 1 piece of toast £3.50 & £2.00 for cappuccino. £2.00 for internet. £2.70 for latte & raspberry flapjack.